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When is smooth enough smooth enough?

Even a model car needs to be spray-painted, also locomotives etc.

When I did a classic wooden yacht topsides in the boatyard, I'd spray the sanding undercoat because it was easier to cover any underlying dark spots by working "round and round." I could spray another shot by the time I'd come around to the dark spot again and it would be dry enough to shoot a bit again, then I'd sand and tack and I'd always do multiple thin gloss finish coats with a brush. (None of that "roll and tip" thin coat crap for the pros!) The best part of the job was afterwards telling the "rubberneckers,' "No, it's not a fiberglass hull." Those jobs would hold up for years and never blister or peel. (Full disclosure: they were well-maintained tight high-quality planking under all my paint.) :)
 
I basically finished my Model Shipways Bluenose, just gotta hang the sails. I went up to 800 grit and “faired” it with my fingers (more sensitive than any tool). Came out great IMHO. Listen to the experts like Bob Clerk and the rest of the boys. I’m thinking deeply about their advice.
Bob Cleek not Clerk. Sorry. Hate spell check dangit.
Hi ‘BigBad’. In the bottom line of your own posts you find the ‘edit’ button. Then you can always edit your post.;):)
Regards, Peter
 
Hi! In my humble opinion, 220 for the frames and 400 grit for smaller details are quite enough. A slight razor blade fairing just for deck planking, no coat or finish of sort for me this time. I like the "raw looking" of my current model and my place has no issue with insects or parasites. Regards!
 
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