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when to use a "correction" plank

Hi Shipahoy

The information on the following links could prove useful:

There is also an article relating to planking a hull in the latest issue of the MSB journal (Feb. 2023).

planks-jpg.277996
 
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Depends on many factors …. Looks to museum standard. Or for you! Obvious you know planking sequences… so if run is out - take off. Please use ticker tape 1st, work out planking. Look at research material. Then… 90% it follows runs. Scaling is another factor… measure 2/3/4/5 … draw out, step back, go get cup of tea. Next day fresh eyes. If all fails bring a friend in to look… if scale permits you can use let ins as per original. If you’re playing underside well - copper or … will hide. If a total purest then you would have followed the rules and this discussion is pointless. Please note your material and ribs - this can cause real head aches (in fills needed if not exposed)… yes! It’s a headache like Galleys to rigging. Nothing easy building anything + most materials are :( apple to lime is good but .. we must make do with what we have. Keep eye on grain / planking pinning. One of my models came apart due to super glue / wood glue / pining : moisture / temp variations (not in case)… that breaks your heart!
 
working on the lower hull of a scratch build Mayflower, and the bow planks are startingng to creep up a little to high . I want to keep the tapers to at least 1/2 a plank. I have heard of the use of a correction plank that is laid near the bow to offset this. Does anyone know of this and how it is used?
1. These "correction" planks are called 'stealers'. 'Srealers' come in all shapes and sizes. I would grab all the books I could find and research the subject before I wasted a lot of time building an inappropriate stealer.
2. Almost all wooden ships used stealers somewhere. Aesthetics plays a big part in there use on models. They are a separate dessign problem in their own tight. Good luck.
 
thanks bill36
ended up scrapping the hull as i messed up the planking on the counter. the plans i have show for a high stern with somthing between a round tuck and a square tuck and a small amount of deadwood. anyway, i messed it up. i had only gotten about a dozen planks on either side when i realized it wasnt going to work. it was a plank on bulkhead so no huge loss . to make matters worse i tried a dark stain on the poplar planking and that ended up looking crappy too. its up on a shelf for now . i may double plank it later to try to salvage it, but i think i will just start again. i started this while finishing up a scratch built 1:48 of the santa maria to get some variety so im really not too broken up about it.
 
thanks bill36
ended up scrapping the hull as i messed up the planking on the counter. the plans i have show for a high stern with somthing between a round tuck and a square tuck and a small amount of deadwood. anyway, i messed it up. i had only gotten about a dozen planks on either side when i realized it wasnt going to work. it was a plank on bulkhead so no huge loss . to make matters worse i tried a dark stain on the poplar planking and that ended up looking crappy too. its up on a shelf for now . i may double plank it later to try to salvage it, but i think i will just start again. i started this while finishing up a scratch built 1:48 of the santa maria to get some variety so im really not too broken up about it.
1. Round tucks are a "bitch" no matter how many models you have built. There are a "LOT" of tricks of the trade that are used to get the planks to bend with such small radius of curvature. In some cases, you put in a "big baulk" of wood and carve it down so that it looks like a plank, but isn't. Round tucks ARE NOT for beginners. I have done a few and always dread the next one.
2. Pick a model with a square tuck for your first model or two. BUT, the Santa Maria is another problem: this was my first model. I "started" the Santa Maria 50 years ago (still not finished). The model companies do a "shitty" job in designing kits for this ship. If I were you (and I realize I am not), I would pick a kit of a single deck vessel (a small frigate -?) with a few cannon (I certainly would not pick anything like Boudriot's "74"- ancre.fr). I would also rig the sails: anyone who has never rigged sails knows nothing about rigging. Basically, you want a "simple" model with a little bit of everything. Avoid massive projects like a "first rate" it could take 20 to 30 years for one person to finish a first rate with any degree of accuracy: it took Longridge and a BIG team of museum experts a dozen to finish the English model. Pick a model that you can finish in about a year. I would also pick a "framed" model and NOT a BULKHEAD model. It is somewhere between very difficult to next to impossible to get a round tuck and/or stealers onto a bulkhead frame: personally I would not even try. I would fill in a bulkhead frame with lime/bass and make it a solid hull. People who build fully framed models end up filling in a lot of spaces between frames anyway just to make life simpler.
3. You need to buy a few books: I have about 200 in my collection and practically every day I am looking for some detail of which I am ignorant and I do not have a book with appropriate detail. There were some books advertised for sale on this forum a week or two ago. You might look at them (if any are left). There is no other way to learn this stuff. I started buying in 1959 and have been at it ever since.
If you send me your rmail, I will send a foto of my current project, L'Hermione (plans from ancre.fr).
4. Good luck.
 
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on the mayflower i will probably remove the planking to where it started to go wrong and redo properly. i dont normally double plank so other than tossing her in the recycle bin this is the best option ( i have already built one on a commission using the same plans and she turned out great. maybe i should pay more attention as planking isnt my favorite thing ) . anyway i will post some pics of the almost complete sta. maria in a day or two and you guys can let me know what you think of her
 
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