• Win a Free Custom Engraved Brass Coin!!!
    As a way to introduce our brass coins to the community, we will raffle off a free coin during the month of August. Follow link ABOVE for instructions for entering.
  • PRE-ORDER SHIPS IN SCALE TODAY!

    The beloved Ships in Scale Magazine is back and charting a new course for 2026!
    Discover new skills, new techniques, and new inspirations in every issue.

    NOTE THAT OUR FIRST ISSUE WILL BE JAN/FEB 2026

Where’s the Brass Black

  • Thread starter Thread starter JimM
  • Start date Start date
  • Watchers Watchers 10
JimM

JimM

Joined
Apr 22, 2025
Messages
20
Points
58

I don’t know if this is a regional or widespread national thing, but I’m having a hard time finding Brass Black at local gun or outdoor stores. Does anyone know what’s going on?
You can still find it online, but the prices are usually higher than the $7-8 I get at the gun stores.
 
Are you talking about Birchwood Casey Brass Black or the old brand many of us loved called Blacken It? Blacken It closed when the couple that ran it out of their house died some years ago. There are other options but that brand was the favorite of many of us. A reason some have gone to copper instead of brass and use liver of sulfur which is cheap and works instantly. Birchwood Casey's version does a credible job on brass but I am curious if others have found other brands that work better for brass.

Allan
 
JimM said:
I don’t know if this is a regional or widespread national thing, but I’m having a hard time finding Brass Black at local gun or outdoor stores. Does anyone know what’s going on?
You can still find it online, but the prices are usually higher than the $7-8 I get at the gun stores.
Click to expand...

 
Hi Allan & Jimsky
Yes, the Birchwood Casey product was the one I was referring to. And I’ve seen it online. What got my mind thinking was that it’s not in stock at most of the brick and mortar stores around here and hasn’t been for a while. I paid $7.99 for the last bottle, and I have a few teaspoons left.
Jim
 
Don't know about the availability. I just restocked from Amazon and paid the higher price.
Don't waste it by bathing parts. Use a Q-Tip and simply brush it onto your parts and wait. That seems to work better than a bath, at least for 'me' it does. Maybe more 'air' has something to do with that, don't know. Put your Brass Black in a small cup and use a different Q-Tip for every dip into the solution. Don't transfer contaminants into your fresh Brass Black by 'double-dipping'. Keep your solution contaminant free and any unused solution can be safely poured back into the bottle without fear of weakening the solution.
 
Allan, the instructions say 10:1, but I have found it works better and faster at about 50:50. One thing to remember is that this is an acid that will corrode the brass if left too long.
I too have painted it on the PE if possible. I’m thinking more along the lines of a couple dozen pins and rings.
After soaking for 10 minutes or so, I’ll rinse and dry the parts. If they’re not black enough, I’ll give them another 5 minutes.
That’s the technique I’ve used.
My question still stands. Is anyone finding this stuff hard to find in a store?
 
MThomas said:
Keep your solution contaminant free and any unused solution can be safely poured back into the bottle without fear of weakening the solution.
Click to expand...
If contamination can lead to a chemical reaction that weakens the stock - good practice would be to only use distilled water as a diluent,
plastic tongues, an aqueous, an organic pre-wash, and old lady white gloves.
 
JimM said:
Is anyone finding this stuff hard to find in a store?
Click to expand...
Sorry for the non-response Jim, There are three gun shops nearby that popped up when I did a search plus a Super Walmart that will ship it for free. Prices are all the same or higher than Amazon.
Allan
 
Last edited:
IMG_0140.jpeg

Here’s the stuff on the Palmetto State Armory website. Add shipping and it’s about the same as Amazon. The crazy thing is, I go to the store and it’s out of stock and they don’t know when they’re getting more.
I know this is a minor thing but it was bugging me. I guess the shortage is just local. Ah well, c’est la vie
Jim
 
DAWarden-(Jaager) said:
If contamination can lead to a chemical reaction that weakens the stock - good practice would be to only use distilled water as a diluent,
plastic tongues, an aqueous, an organic pre-wash, and old lady white gloves.
Click to expand...
... contaminated 'used' solution from blackening brass or copper. That will weaken the solution.
 
For those of us that are still amateurs and novices, what types of parts do you blacken? If I get a brass part, I like to show it off by leaving the gleam and shine. Historical accuracy be damned!
 
Drobbs said:
For those of us that are still amateurs and novices, what types of parts do you blacken? If I get a brass part, I like to show it off by leaving the gleam and shine. Historical accuracy be damned!
Click to expand...
Brass instead of iron cannon in the 18th century and hinges and such are prime examples.

If you leave these kind of parts as brass instead of simulated iron you have indeed damned accuracy. :) But in the end it is a hobby, so do what makes you happy.
Allan
 
JimM said:
I don’t know if this is a regional or widespread national thing, but I’m having a hard time finding Brass Black at local gun or outdoor stores. Does anyone know what’s going on?
You can still find it online, but the prices are usually higher than the $7-8 I get at the gun stores.
Click to expand...
One more suggestion- look on Amazon for Jax brass black. I use the pewter black version. I always soak brass in dilute (5%) hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid) for 30 minutes to etch parts then dip them directly in the bottle until I see the degree of blackening I want. Saves on waste. Then rinse and lay on paper towel til dry. The blackening is not durable but you can touch up with a little blackening solution with a brush after handling.
 
I am about to do my first cannon with Brass Black. My plan is to clean the parts, then brush them with metal wool before applying the black brass (opting for the undiluted solution with q-tip path).
After the part is blackened, rinsed and dried, do you leave it as is or do you put a sealant of some sort?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top