Wood filler.

[tfcobra]

Wondering if anyone has used the Mohawk epoxy wood fillers sticks? They are currently available in the US by Klingspor woodworking outlets for $12.39 and come in 14 woodtones.
Advertised to have an 8-10 minute working time and harden in 20 minutes. Accept paint and stain. They sound like a reasonable option for filling planking”flaws”, etc.

 

[Y.T.]

Epoxy wood filler sticks are good for purpose you describe but only if planking with gaps is covered by secondary planking or the copper plates. Gaps between planks are not acceptable if exposed or painted. This would not look good or professional.

 

[AllanKP69]

US by Klingspor woodworking outlets for $12.39 and come in 14 woodtones.

Assuming you are speaking about gaps between planks, filling the gaps, unless VERY minor, means the planking is not done correctly. If it is as YT said, a first layer to be covered, why bother to fill the gaps at all? If it is the final layer and will be visible, for teeny gaps, try filling the gap with a little PVA then sand the area. The sawdust will fill the gap. If it is a large gap, you will get better visual results by removing the planks and doing it over without the gaps.

Allan

 

[Y.T.]

If it is as YT said, a first layer to be covered, why bother to fill the gaps at all?

Also true! Why to bother?

 

[Bob Cleek]

I have long used Mohawk "wax" filler crayons for repairing very minor imperfections on furniture finishes. I've never used their epoxy filler, although it appears to be for the same purpose. The wax crayons, and apparently also their epoxy sticks, are for filling and blending very minor nicks and scratches in bright finished furniture without having to refinish the entire piece. They aren't designed for puttying significant gaps and voids. The epoxy filler appears to be made for the same purpose as the wax crayons, except that it costs a huge amount of money if I'm reading the advertisements correctly. I have no idea what advantage epoxy would afford for the intended application.

As noted by others above, if your hull is planked correctly there should be no gaps between the plank seams. If you've got a problem with a fair hull, the product you should be using is a surfacing putty, sanded fair, and painted. (E.g., https://www.interlux.com/us/en/products/surfacing-putty) If you want a clear wood finish on your hull, it needs to be perfectly planked with a suitable "grainless" finish wood. Anything less than perfect will only highlight the imperfections. There's no shame in a nicely painted hull. Most high-quality ship model hulls are faired and painted.

 

[tfcobra]

Thanks, gentlemen. I will try the PVA and sawdust method.

 

[DAWarden-(Jaager)]

For a first foundational layer of planking on a PoB hull.
For small and minor dips on the planking run PVA+sawdust or a spreadable filler that bonds to wood and "likes" PVA for the outer layer.
For narrow gaps between planks: you should have done better, but as Allan and Y.T. point out, what difference does it make if they are filled or not filled?
For a significantly wide gap that will affect the outer planking, remove the whole area and do it over - buy more material probably.
For a significant dip - a real valley that would need a big wad spreadable filler - use a wood scab instead, i.e. a piece of veneer or a curl of wood from really sharp plane PVA bonded and sanded to shape.