Your advice on a light varnish

[Kaycee]

I need some advice ref what lightter Varnish is available for use wooden ship models, I've been studying the Build vlogs and many of them seem to me to be thick with Varnish.
Is there a Modellers Varnish available, something thin and "in scale" for the want of a better term ?

 

[Bryian]

Hi there,
I use Feast Watson satin polyurethane. Its an oil based product and penetrates the wood grain.

You can grab a small can of it from your local Bunnings hardware store.

 

[Kaycee]

Hi there,
I use Feast Watson satin polyurethane. Its an oil based product and penetrates the wood grain.

You can grab a small can of it from your local Bunnings hardware store.

Thank you sir, do you thin it before use, if not does it allow an easily applied thin coat that doesn't appear too thick when dry ?

 

[Bryian]

I use it straight from the can, but you can add a bit of turps if you like.

.

 

[danielsje]

Another good brand is Minwax polyurethane satin, the water based or oil based. I use the poly satin water based straight. It is thin, does not build up, protects the wood, and provides a very slight sheen. If you want no sheen use the matte poly. I apply coatings as I go...even as a base before painting if painting is called for. It can also be used as a sealant prior to applying stain but you would need to experiment with that...some like the stain to penetrate more deeply. Again, available in your handy dandy local hardware store depending on region or country.

 

[bill36]

I need some advice ref what lightter Varnish is available for use wooden ship models, I've been studying the Build vlogs and many of them seem to me to be thick with Varnish.
Is there a Modellers Varnish available, something thin and "in scale" for the want of a better term ?

Use an artists matte varnish thinned to about 50 to 80 percent. Use only a couple of coats. Apply, let dry about 3 minute, rub off everything you can with a soft cloth. Then 'scrub' the surface with a stiff bristle brush (this gives a dull finish, which is historically correct). There should be no surface buildup. There should be no shiny areas (there were no shiny surface paints before about 1930 or so). When you see a model of an 18th century or 19th century (or earlier) ship covered in shiny varnish, you are looking at a project that was very poorly researched. A good 'vrnish' to use is 'Liquitex' Artist's Matte Varnish. You can buy it over the internet and in artists supply stores. A pint will cost about 15 bucks and last a decade or more. You use very little per model. This stuff really works. However, it behaves differently on different species of wood (hard wood, soft wood, pourous wood, etc). You need to learn it's characteristics; in general, it is great.

 

[Rossc83]

I use this, also available at Bunnings. Three or four THIN coats works well I use the satin version, not the gloss. Think it also comes in matt

 

[Kaycee]

Another good brand is Minwax polyurethane satin, the water based or oil based. I use the poly satin water based straight. It is thin, does not build up, protects the wood, and provides a very slight sheen. If you want no sheen use the matte poly. I apply coatings as I go...even as a base before painting if painting is called for. It can also be used as a sealant prior to applying stain but you would need to experiment with that...some like the stain to penetrate more deeply. Again, available in your handy dandy local hardware store depending on region or country.

Thank you sir, I'm unsure whether the Miniwax brand is available here in Aussie land, but I'll look for it.

There have been good reports on Cabots Danish Oil for model builders, I want to get it right from the outset so appreciate all the advice here.

 

[Kaycee]

Use an artists matte varnish thinned to about 50 to 80 percent. Use only a couple of coats. Apply, let dry about 3 minute, rub off everything you can with a soft cloth. Then 'scrub' the surface with a stiff bristle brush (this gives a dull finish, which is historically correct). There should be no surface buildup. There should be no shiny areas (there were no shiny surface paints before about 1930 or so). When you see a model of an 18th century or 19th century (or earlier) ship covered in shiny varnish, you are looking at a project that was very poorly researched. A good 'vrnish' to use is 'Liquitex' Artist's Matte Varnish. You can buy it over the internet and in artists supply stores. A pint will cost about 15 bucks and last a decade or more. You use very little per model. This stuff really works. However, it behaves differently on different species of wood (hard wood, soft wood, pourous wood, etc). You need to learn it's characteristics; in general, it is great.

Thank you, I value your historic perspective which is my personal preference too.

 

[Robert B]

I normally use a mix of 50/50 turps and varnish usually a satin poly a Cabots or Feast Watsons on open timber. I place the boat in the hot sun and then after about an hour in the sun I soak it in this mix. it soaks right into the timber and gives a lasting seal. I then rub down with a lite scourer and give it another coat. I then rub back again , leave i the sun again and then give a good soaking in scandinavian timber oil. This give the ship a depth of finish on the timber and seals it perfectly.

 

[Kaycee]

I normally use a mix of 50/50 turps and varnish usually a satin poly a Cabots or Feast Watsons on open timber. I place the boat in the hot sun and then after about an hour in the sun I soak it in this mix. it soaks right into the timber and gives a lasting seal. I then rub down with a lite scourer and give it another coat. I then rub back again , leave i the sun again and then give a good soaking in scandinavian timber oil. This give the ship a depth of finish on the timber and seals it perfectly.

How is it after 3 coats of varnish giving it a lasting seal, the Scandinavian timber oil can "give the ship a depth of finish" and "seal it perfectly" ?

 

[Robert B]

Hello Kaycee it was 2 coats of a 50/50 mixture that soaks into the timber the oil gives it the seal and finish. I have a picture of a ship I built many years ago treated like this and you can see the water beaded on it. I believe if you look in the other forum under the Le Hussard you will see this ship and it wet with the beaded water which shows the timber fully sealed

 

[shipahoy]

I use a sanding sealer instead of varnish or poly. it is meant as a sealer prior to sanding of wooden floors before they a re finished with poly . it dries to a matt finish, has no build-up and seals the wood against moisture. i believe it comes only in an oil base. ( a water base would raise the grain of the wood ) a quart is around 15$ and will last for a couple of builds. It has a shelf life once opened.