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One of the features of the BN II the upper line just below the white rail cap is a yellow line, analogous to our BN I's white line. You can clearly see the dead eye straps go over the yellow line. Now at the wider white waterline stripe they painted the straps white at their crossings. The metal straps on the real BN's lay much further down than on the models. Something to think about.
View attachment 471426View attachment 471431
It is hard to tell on the original BN and the new one, but where the straps are not touching the hull, the strapping stays black but touching the hull it gets whatever color it crosses.
What a great idea. I will remember that one.I know, it's a it overdue, but, I painted all the railing stuff prior to attaching the parts to the hull. I used a 1mm wide tape to keep the bond areas clear of paint. Once painted, I stuck with the color scheme.
It's a build which keep you on your toes. One moment not paying attention and you've gotten yourself a redo.Somehow I have installed this lower deadeye too high.
I will try to lower it if possible but have a spare brass blank if necessary.
TedView attachment 472580
I must definitely be showing signs of impending senility.It's a build which keep you on your toes. One moment not paying attention and you've gotten yourself a redo.
Thankfully for us there are choices for us when it comes to paint. FWIW craft paints like the one you show goes on much lighter and is muted in color compared to student or professional artist tubed acrylics which will give you the most opaque, deepest color using the least amount of paint. The choice is really dependent on the finished look that is desired. I prefer the tubed acrylics most of the time, but if the client wants a more "aged" look I go with the bottled craft paints.I just did most of the first coat with the Titanium white. It came out looking much cleaner. I got the paint at Amazon.
Thanks, I thought that was the way you did it in your build log.Hi Ted, that placement is exactly the way I did it.
Thank you, I'll look up your build logI used a filler on the fwd support, so the position would be matching the drawing.