Rigging

[Johnnyoldboy]

Are you suppose to use CA glue on all the knots when doing rigging

 

[ken s]

Are you suppose to use CA glue on all the knots when doing rigging

 

[JohnA]

Some prefer wood PVA as it doesn't leave the shiny residue.
It takes a bit longer to dry though.

 

[Johnnyoldboy]

Thanks for the input.

 

[Donnie]

I think I have used both. If you are using a cotton line then also if you are using beeswax, that wax has a tendency to keep the line knots from coming loose. I have used very thin CA for knots, but it does not make it shiny, it darkens the line for me.

 

[Johnnyoldboy]

I think I have used both. If you are using a cotton line then also if you are using beeswax, that wax has a tendency to keep the line knots from coming loose. I have used very thin CA for knots, but it does not make it shiny, it darkens the line for me.

Thanks for the input. I am struggling with how to mount the model to the brass pedestals since the keel is so thin. How do you do it

 

[ken s]

Thanks for the input. I am struggling with how to mount the model to the brass pedestals since the keel is so thin. How do you do it

I do not use the pedestals as I do not trust them. I make a two cradles for support. You can use the laser cut bulk head frames as a guide. If you have them.

 

[Johnnyoldboy]

I do not use the pedestals as I do not trust them. I make a two cradles for support. You can use the laser cut bulk head frames as a guide. If you have them.

Thanks

 

[polydoc]

I think I have used both. If you are using a cotton line then also if you are using beeswax, that wax has a tendency to keep the line knots from coming loose. I have used very thin CA for knots, but it does not make it shiny, it darkens the line for me.

If you use Pva the knot can usually be undone if a problem with the rigging arises.

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Pedestals by themselves require threaded metal rods be epoxied deep into the keel, and extend down through the pedestals, through the baseplate, and secured with nuts underneath the baseplate. This arrangement has to be planned early, before planking is started, since there are nuts that the treaded rods screw into which are buried in the frames above the keel inside the ship and secured with epoxy. This will make the mounting strong enough, but a hard bump on the hull could crack or break off the keel. A saddle added to the pedestals adds reinforcement and helps protect breaking of the pedestal joints if you have an accident and bump the ship. Here's and example of a saddle and two pedestals. The notches and the saddle contact surfaces are lines with soft pieces of cloth so the keel and hull planking don't get scratched. This model has no threaded rods through the pedestals, and relies on the pedestal notches and the saddle to maintain the ship safely in position. This is less expensive than the four beautiful hippocampi bronze castings sold by Mantua, but it still looks classy.

 

[ken s]

Pedestals by themselves require threaded metal rods be epoxied deep into the keel, and extend down through the pedestals, through the baseplate, and secured with nuts underneath the baseplate. This arrangement has to be planned early, before planking is started, since there are nuts that the treaded rods screw into which are buried in the frames above the keel inside the ship and secured with epoxy. This will make the mounting strong enough, but a hard bump on the hull could crack or break off the keel. A saddle added to the pedestals adds reinforcement and helps protect breaking of the pedestal joints if you have an accident and bump the ship. Here's and example of a saddle and two pedestals. The notches and the saddle contact surfaces are lines with soft pieces of cloth so the keel and hull planking don't get scratched. This model has no threaded rods through the pedestals, and relies on the pedestal notches and the saddle to maintain the ship safely in position. This is less expensive than the four beautiful hippocampi bronze castings sold by Mantua, but it still looks classy.

View attachment 209306

This is basically what I was referring to as a cradle. In post #7. Actually, this is the exact picture that I was thinking of later.

 

[Johnnyoldboy]

If you use Pva the knot can usually be undone if a problem with the rigging arises.

Good point thanks

 

[jimmystratos]

Both CA & PVA wick along the line away from the knot to an extent. The CA hardens that section of thread so you have to be careful that the thread is held in the correct direction while it sets otherwise you can end up with thread leading off at a bizarre route, as in my cockup here.

 

[Johnnyoldboy]

Both CA & PVA wick along the line away from the knot to an extent. The CA hardens that section of thread so you have to be careful that the thread is held in the correct direction while it sets otherwise you can end up with thread leading off at a bizarre route, as in my cockup here.View attachment 209443

Thanks for that tip

 

[Steef66]

I don't use cotton thread any more. It darkens with superglue. Now I use polyester threat and I use superglue to tighten the knots.
But be carefully just a tiny drop on a part of the knot. Don't socked it glue, that's not necessary. Use a toothpick or something to dose.
I use the cheapest glue I can buy.
That's the way I do it.

I read something about schellac, somebody tried it?

 

[danielsje]

I have found if you use a very small drop of CA gel or “thick” on a rigging knot it will absorb into the knot but not (or very little) wick up the line causing the discoloration, etc. Thicker viscosity CA works better in most applications than the more popular thin CA.

 

[danielsje]

Pedestals can be safely used to hold a ship model if the keel area is prepared before the planking stage. The screw or bolt must anchor up into the model past the keel itself...either into a bulkhead or into a block added for the purpose...do not stop at the keel itself. Bulkheads can be reinforced with added blocks. I use long, thin, wood screws (3 or 4 inch). I drill a pilot hole through the keel and into a reinforced bulkhead or the added block. Then the mounting is secured by the screw up through the base, through the keel, into the bulkhead or block. The screw bears the shear strength so the keel is not broken by any flex of the model against the pedestal mounts.

 

[Short John Bronze]

Are you suppose to use CA glue on all the knots when doing rigging

I found that some CA glues tend to wick along the rigging away from a knot making it stiff and possibly not hanging as required.
I tried a product called "speed Bond" but that tended to leave a visible white residue.
I now use a Mantua product (Art 1015) which calls itself a super-glue but I think is probably a sort of PVA
It sets fairly quickly (minutes - not seconds or hours) and dries clear. It is water soluble.

 

[frankieg]

I don't use cotton thread any more. It darkens with superglue. Now I use polyester threat and I use superglue to tighten the knots.
But be carefully just a tiny drop on a part of the knot. Don't socked it glue, that's not necessary. Use a toothpick or something to dose.
I use the cheapest glue I can buy.
That's the way I do it.

I read something about schellac, somebody tried it?

I believe you want to say "don't soak the glue", the tooth pick is very good advice. I use polyester, it's just beautiful but you must CA the ends before cutting line. Groeten van Australie.

 

[Steef66]

I believe you want to say "don't soak the glue", the tooth pick is very good advice. I use polyester, it's just beautiful but you must CA the ends before cutting line. Groeten van Australie.

Ik bedoelde dus om het touw er niet in te verzuipen.
Ik tip het knoopje aan met de secondelijm mbv een tandenstoker. Net dat ongeveer de helft van het knoopje lijm krijgt. Dat is genoeg. Het is een knoop en het enigste dat je moet voorkomen is dat de knoop loslaat.
En polyester garen wil inderdaad gaan rafelen. Vlammetje erbij helpt ook. Bedankt voor de correcties, dit is goed om mijn Engels te verbeteren.