Rigging

Steef66 said:
Ik bedoelde dus om het touw er niet in te verzuipen. :)
Ik tip het knoopje aan met de secondelijm mbv een tandenstoker. Net dat ongeveer de helft van het knoopje lijm krijgt. Dat is genoeg. Het is een knoop en het enigste dat je moet voorkomen is dat de knoop loslaat.
En polyester garen wil inderdaad gaan rafelen. Vlammetje erbij helpt ook. Bedankt voor de correcties, dit is goed om mijn Engels te verbeteren.
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Graag gedaan, helemaal mee eens. Success gewenst. Je Engels is zeer goed.
Basically, folks, don't drench the rope with CA, just a touch with a toothpick, on the knot, to keep it from coming undone.
Keep on keeping on.
 
Johnnyoldboy said:
Are you suppose to use CA glue on all the knots when doing rigging
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Using CA on rigging line is a very very bad idea (regardless of cotton or poly) for all the reasons already given and then some. I addition, with time the CA hardens and becomes brittle. As the line moves with temp and humidity changes, the brittle CA expels little white flakes of hard glue that look like dandruff; just what every model needs, a good coating of dust. All of the problems of CA on rigging can be easily seen by looking at your rigging through a binocular microscope (magnification about 10x will do). Harold Hahn used a very small dot of Artists Matte Varnish on some of his knots (described in his second book about page 150 or so). Liquitex is one brand of matte varnish available over the internet and in stores. About $16.00 for a pint that should last a decade or more). The mechanical properties of the knots themselves should be the primary force used in keeping things together; the 'glues' are just a safety measure. There are only a half dozen or so knots that need be learned and used over and over; there are thousands of knot books available. Cotton does not have memory and will not untie itself as easily as poly will. Poly is a nightmare with respect to memory. Poly will never relax and thus will always be in the process of untying itself regardless of what you use to glue it with.
 
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I agree, using whatever strength PVA , where possible is always the best option, if you can tie a rope down, use this method. If you are in a position where you just want an instant bond, use your own discretion. We are all just learning. Cheers people.
 
I used varnish once. But the drying time was for me to long. I want to go on.
But never tried Shellac. Somebody tried that stuff?
 
Vfordyce said:
I love it when people thank others for correction. Your English is better than a lot of native speakers!
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I won't even TRY to speak proper Dutch... the corrections would take up enough posts to fill dozens of locked threads. Then there are the 100 posts or so for my apologies for having offended thousands of Dutch grandmothers for somehow smearing their clothing choices, family heritage, and personal odors. :rolleyes:
Also, I don't want to be the guy who starts the third world war.
 
Johnnyoldboy said:
Are you suppose to use CA glue on all the knots when doing rigging
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The U.S. Navy accepts model ships from builders if they meet their strict standards (navsea.navy.mil). Under “knots and seizing” it states: “knots and seizing may be secured with thinned white glue”. I follow their guideline because my early use of CA glue caused me some problems. CA glue will make rigging line stiff, brittle, and subject to breakage. If you don’t move (or bump into) your model, no problem. However, I have moved twice and the rigging on several early models simply broke off where I used CA glue. My personal preference is to avoid CA glue on my lines if possible.
 
being a recent convert to the polyester thread i have found that a touch of regular c.a. holds the knot and blends well with the poly thread. I use over the counter poly thread like gutterman's for serving ,tying off lines, stropping blocks, ect., and save the expensive stuff for the actual rigging. with strangle knots there is a lot of wasted thread.
 
I use Super Phatic glue on my knots. I use Odourless CA when required as I am allergic to the normal one. I found that CA makes the knots not only too rigid ,but also very brittle. The Super Phatic leaves the ropes flexible & is fairly fast drying.
 
I needed some more CA glue today. I came across this in the local shop and thought it looked interesting. The CA inside turns out to be gel. After the first few uses, it looks like it'll be useful for putting small dots of glue on knots etc.
The cocktail stick method is cheap and simple however!

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Be careful, though...Loctite brand CA glue drys leaving matte clogs (from my personal experience). The area you glue is difficult to stain\oil and varnish.
 
Like a lot of others, I buy my Chinese yellow carpenters glue at the dollar store, and as long as it's not going to see water it's fantastic. %00ml for a dollar and a quarter. I learned this when building RC planes and model railroad structures
 
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