YQ BLUENOSE - Ronko

[Ronko]

Greeting everyone!

I've been spying on you all for a while now, I suppose it's time to come out of hiding.

I have enjoyed watching the fine craftsmen here from around the world share their amazing skills so kindly and graciously. Very uplifting to see a diverse group of people come together for a common interest to share their passion.

I'm going to give this Bluenose the best effort I can and I'm sure to be asking many questions along the way.

Ron - Boyne City, MI

 

[Dean62]

Greeting everyone!

I've been spying on you all for a while now, I suppose it's time to come out of hiding.

I have enjoyed watching the fine craftsmen here from around the world share their amazing skills so kindly and graciously. Very uplifting to see a diverse group of people come together for a common interest to share their passion.

I'm going to give this Bluenose the best effort I can and I'm sure to be asking many questions along the way.

Ron - Boyne City, MI

Welcome aboard Ron! We look forward to your build log and to helping anyway we can.

 

[Jimsky]

Welcome onboard the BN build group!

 

[Heinrich]

Hello Ron. It is great to see you here in the build logs section. Go for it!

 

[Peter Voogt]

Hello Ron,
Welcom and nice to read you are starting the build of your BN. Don't hesitate to show your progress.
Regards, Peter

 

[PT-2]

Hello Ron,
Welcom and nice to read you are starting the build of your BN. Don't hesitate to show your progress.
Regards, Peter

In addition to the build logs you may find some interesting photos and information on the original Bluenose in out group build, main support page, thread of Bluenose Old Photos, Books, and resources from the past This thread has had periodic additions from group members as they find new things related to Bluenose and that era of schooner racing. Rich (PT-2)

 

[Ronko]

Wow, out for delivery today! That was quick! I thought I was going to have a few more days to prepare the Mrs. for its arrival.

Monday, April 12, 2021
9:05 AM	TRAVERSE CITY, MI	On FedEx vehicle for delivery
9:00 AM	TRAVERSE CITY, MI	At local FedEx facility
Sunday, April 11, 2021
7:42 PM	GRAND RAPIDS, MI	At destination sort facility
5:19 PM	MEMPHIS, TN	Departed FedEx location
1:59 AM	MEMPHIS, TN	Arrived at FedEx location
Saturday, April 10, 2021
5:09 PM	ANCHORAGE, AK	Departed FedEx location
Friday, April 9, 2021
2:31 PM	ANCHORAGE, AK	International shipment release - Import
12:27 PM	ANCHORAGE, AK	Arrived at FedEx location
10:48 PM	INCHEON-SI KR	In transit
10:13 PM	INCHEON-SI KR	In transit
5:55 PM	BEIJING CN	In transit
3:47 PM	BEIJING CN	In transit
10:49 AM	BEIJING CN	International shipment release - Export
Thursday, April 8, 2021
7:56 PM	QINGDAO CN	In transit
7:56 PM	QINGDAO CN	Left FedEx origin facility
6:32 PM	QINGDAO CN	Picked upPackage received after FedEx cutoff
2:57 AM		Shipment information sent to FedEx

 

[Heinrich]

Great to hear that @Ronko .

 

[Peter Voogt]

Hi Ron.
For sure, thats quick! Succes with the build!
Regards, Peter

 

[Ronko]

There's a happy little boy in Boyne City today.

This is my third attempt at scale model boat building. The first was the "Alabama" kit from Mamoli. Not a good choice for me. Poor instructions and materials. Previous experience with model ship building definitely required. I spent months trying to figure things out before donating it to Waste Management. I would have been much better off with a beginners kit. My bad.

My second attempt involved more research before purchasing the Model Shipways US Syren Brig. I was able to download and review instructions before purchasing, a key decision maker. It seemed doable so I went for it. Instructions were very well done and the materials better than the Mamoli kit, but the builder still sucked. Too many little gun and sweep ports to cut out..... with the wrong tools. Gluing was a messy disaster and the rigging plans gave me headaches. I did finish the POB frame, planking, copper, cannons, masts and some painting. Much better, but not good enough. It is on display, and looks okay at 15 feet.

Here I go with build number three, so please bow your head and say a quick prayer for YuanQing Bluenose #036.....the knife and scalpel are coming out.

Here's a photo where I plan to display ole #036 (wife permitting).

 

[Dean62]

There's a happy little boy in Boyne City today.

This is my third attempt at scale model boat building. The first was the "Alabama" kit from Mamoli. Not a good choice for me. Poor instructions and materials. Previous experience with model ship building definitely required. I spent months trying to figure things out before donating it to Waste Management. I would have been much better off with a beginners kit. My bad.

My second attempt involved more research before purchasing the Model Shipways US Syren Brig. I was able to download and review instructions before purchasing, a key decision maker. It seemed doable so I went for it. Instructions were very well done and the materials better than the Mamoli kit, but the builder still sucked. Too many little gun and sweep ports to cut out..... with the wrong tools. Gluing was a messy disaster and the rigging plans gave me headaches. I did finish the POB frame, planking, copper, cannons, masts and some painting. Much better, but not good enough. It is on display, and looks okay at 15 feet.

Here I go with build number three, so please bow your head and say a quick prayer for YuanQing Bluenose #036.....the knife and scalpel are coming out.

Here's a photo where I plan to display ole #036 (wife permitting).

Wow! Nice fireplace!
I think if you take your time on this kit, you can be more successful than your previous attempts. This ship, being a Schooner, has less rigging and details than a war ship. However it still requires a careful and accurate approach to building. Just take your time.
As far as glue goes:
I apply glue with a toothpick or brush, never from the bottle. It gives you more control on the amount of glue you apply, and therefore you should have little or no squeeze out. If you do, clean up immediately.
Also I found that Titebond 2 wood glue dries a yellowish color, so I do not use it anywhere that will be visible. So not a good choice on the POF ship. I use Weldbond or Gorrilla glue, both dry crystal clear! If you use CA glue, do not use it on untreated wood that you will be staining later. It will not take stain where ever it soaks into the wood. OK if you are painting a piece. If not, stain first and glue afterwards. I use it sparingly, mainly on metal pieces.
You will want to be careful when beveling the frames, better to leave extra on, than take too much off!
Anyway, start reading logs and if you are not sure...ask! Look forward to pics of your progress.

 

[PT-2]

Wow! Nice fireplace!
I think if you take your time on this kit, you can be more successful than your previous attempts. This ship, being a Schooner, has less rigging and details than a war ship. However it still requires a careful and accurate approach to building. Just take your time.
As far as glue goes:
I apply glue with a toothpick or brush, never from the bottle. It gives you more control on the amount of glue you apply, and therefore you should have little or no squeeze out. If you do, clean up immediately.
Also I found that Titebond 2 wood glue dries a yellowish color, so I do not use it anywhere that will be visible. So not a good choice on the POF ship. I use Weldbond or Gorrilla glue, both dry crystal clear! If you use CA glue, do not use it on untreated wood that you will be staining later. It will not take stain where ever it soaks into the wood. OK if you are painting a piece. If not, stain first and glue afterwards. I use it sparingly, mainly on metal pieces.
You will want to be careful when beveling the frames, better to leave extra on, than take too much off!
Anyway, start reading logs and if you are not sure...ask! Look forward to pics of your progress.

I too, like Dean, was impressed with your heavy timber framed fireplace. Is the rest of you home also heavy timber framed? That takes special framing and erection to carry out. The connectors, possibly faux pegged over metal fasteners, give the timbers an engaging view. You will have an impressive display place framing the masted model well. Rich (PT-2)

 

[Ronko]

Wow! Nice fireplace!
I think if you take your time on this kit, you can be more successful than your previous attempts. This ship, being a Schooner, has less rigging and details than a war ship. However it still requires a careful and accurate approach to building. Just take your time.
As far as glue goes:
I apply glue with a toothpick or brush, never from the bottle. It gives you more control on the amount of glue you apply, and therefore you should have little or no squeeze out. If you do, clean up immediately.
Also I found that Titebond 2 wood glue dries a yellowish color, so I do not use it anywhere that will be visible. So not a good choice on the POF ship. I use Weldbond or Gorrilla glue, both dry crystal clear! If you use CA glue, do not use it on untreated wood that you will be staining later. It will not take stain where ever it soaks into the wood. OK if you are painting a piece. If not, stain first and glue afterwards. I use it sparingly, mainly on metal pieces.
You will want to be careful when beveling the frames, better to leave extra on, than take too much off!
Anyway, start reading logs and if you are not sure...ask! Look forward to pics of your progress.

Hello Dean,

Thanks for your comments, I really appreciate it. I've gone through the BN builds with interest and have learned a great deal. For newbies like me, simple things like glue, sanding, clamps, etc. has been a struggle. I had no idea there were forums like SOS that had build logs, friendly participants and even companies that specialize in modelling tools.

Taking one step at a time and maintaining patience is key. Today,I'm going to the hardware store to get a piece of glass to clamp the frames and keel to and plywood to mount the template. I bought about 50 clamps of different styles and sizes, diamond files and other sanding devices. I do have a Dremel and a small benchtop disc and belt sander combo.

An old salt once said to start with the keel, so that I will do.

Pictures to follow, but I work slow and travel a bit, so this is going to be a long journey.

Ron

 

[Ronko]

I too, like Dean, was impressed with your heavy timber framed fireplace. Is the rest of you home also heavy timber framed? That takes special framing and erection to carry out. The connectors, possibly faux pegged over metal fasteners, give the timbers an engaging view. You will have an impressive display place framing the masted model well. Rich (PT-2)

Hello Rich,

Our timber frame house is completely structural, assembled entirely with oak pegs (metal screws on purlins). I'm hoping Bluenose #036 ends up on our mantle and not in the fireplace!

Ron

 

[PT-2]

Hello Rich,

Our timber frame house is completely structural, assembled entirely with oak pegs (metal screws on purlins). I'm hoping Bluenose #036 ends up on our mantle and not in the fireplace!

Ron

Heavy timber framed structures take a lot of heavy lifting to set the members in place for fastening. Usually by a specialty contractor/crew. Did you do any of it yourself? They really look nice with the exposed framing. Rich

 

[Heinrich]

Long journeys are the ones worth remembering Ron - so no problem there.

 

[Ronko]

Heavy timber framed structures take a lot of heavy lifting to set the members in place for fastening. Usually by a specialty contractor/crew. Did you do any of it yourself? They really look nice with the exposed framing. Rich

Hello Rich,

I sub contracted a timber frame company to cut and install the frame. They used CNC machines to cut the douglas fir timbers and then assembled the bents in their shop to test fit, unassemble, stain and load on a truck. I had the ICF foundation, sub floor and crane ready for the crew to assemble. After assembling the frame on site, the crew attached the SIP walls and roof. The entire frame and SIP installation took four days. I did very little hands on work myself. I was fortunate to have many talented craftsman work on the home and enjoyed watching them work.

 

[PT-2]

Hello Rich,

I sub contracted a timber frame company to cut and install the frame. They used CNC machines to cut the douglas fir timbers and then assembled the bents in their shop to test fit, unassemble, stain and load on a truck. I had the ICF foundation, sub floor and crane ready for the crew to assemble. After assembling the frame on site, the crew attached the SIP walls and roof. The entire frame and SIP installation took four days. I did very little hands on work myself. I was fortunate to have many talented craftsman work on the home and enjoyed watching them work.

Thanks for sharing the process. Rich

 

[Ronko]

Had some issues with assembling the keel. All my fault, the kit is wonderful. Same as my playing golf, right club, wrong golfer!

I was not careful enough when removing char from the keel components and took off to much leaving a bit larger gap than preferred. than preferred. Not that big of a deal and probably not even noticeable (from more than three feet). When gluing parts 20 and 21 on, I think the clamp moved it about 1 mm and I didn't notice it until it was dry. I was able to remove part 20, but part 21 snapped when removing. Bummer. I was able to glue it back on, but not a good start to my build.

On a positive note, the rabbit and bevel on #18 went well and looks good. It Looks like I'll be painting the keel to cover up the goof.

The frames have gone much smoother and I'm getting better at each passing one. Ten down and 40 some to go. I rather enjoy making and sanding the frames, of course I've only done 10. Purchased two different sets of diamond files and found just the right sanding pad. Now I'll take my time and get them done right.

Whoever recommended Weld Bond glue....THANK YOU! I started by using my existing Elmer's ProBond and Gorilla Glue and had issues. I love the We;ld Bond. It gives you time to move the piece before sticking. The Elmers worked well on other models, but not so much on the BN.

I've dry fitted the keel and frames 1 and 49 to the jig. I have yet to screw the jig to my plywood base, but will before gluing any frames in.

Question......appears to me the frames should terminate closer to the rabbit. Other build logs seem to show it that way as well. If the is the case, I'll need to make adjustments to the frames. I remember reading some comments on this, but can't remember where.

Ron

 

[Dean62]

Looking good. Just make sure the frame is fully seated into the keel. If you have to, make a small mark in pencil at the end of the frame slot and keel slot. Even if they are fully seated, the edge of the frame may never reach the rabbet edge. Mine didn’t and was not an issue when planking the hull.
Here is pic of my frames seated in the keel, for reference...