Integration of 3D Modeling and Printing of plastic details into Wooden Ship Model Construction (HMS Victory | Cutter Alert) by Serikoff

[serikoff]

In this thread, I will discuss topics such as:

1. 3D modeling (drawing adaptation, software, parameters),
2. Preparing STL files for 3D printing (slicer, parameters, settings),
3. 3D printing (hardware, software, settings, and life hacks),
4. Post-processing and preparation for painting or galvanizing,
5. Results of copper plating (electroplating) of plastic parts,
6. Results of copper blackening after electroplating as an option for creating only metal parts from plastic.

This entire thread will primarily be a collection of links to posts from my model building threads, where I discuss each aspect of a given topic in detail.

*Despite the skepticism surrounding 3D-printed parts—some consider them inauthentic and not canonical since they're not made of wood or metal—I hold a slightly different opinion. If printed parts look good and are well-painted, does it really matter what lies beneath the paint? If this process can simplify or speed up production, why not take advantage of it? I've always been intrigued by new possibilities, especially those that help me overcome my laziness. After all, modeling one part and replicating it multiple times is far more efficient than crafting each piece individually.




This is the introductory section (prologue), where I discuss errors such as:
1. Issues with scaling,
2. Correct positioning and supports,
3. Eliminating visible print layers, post-processing, and painting, etc.

>>> Link to the post "Errors in 3D" <<<

 

[serikoff]

This section contains less information and is primarily focused on statistical tracking of the use of printed parts on the ship, using the example of cannon port hinges.

>>> Link to the post "3D- 01"<<<

 

[serikoff]

In this section, I will discuss the following aspects:
1. The programs I use for 3D modeling and printing.
2. How I scale parts in the software.
3. The printer and resin I use for printing.
4. The curing process and equipment, as well as post-processing techniques.
5. The painting process and materials, using the stern gallery as an example.

>>> Link to the post "3D- 02"<<< (vol. 1)
>>> Link to the post "3D- 02"<<< (vol. 2)

 

[Philski]

Despite the skepticism surrounding 3D-printed parts—some consider them inauthentic and not canonical since they're not made of wood or metal—I hold a slightly different opinion. If printed parts look good and are well-painted, does it really matter what lies beneath the paint? If this process can simplify or speed up production, why not take advantage of it? I've always been intrigued by new possibilities, especially those that help me overcome my laziness. After all, modeling one part and replicating it multiple times is far more efficient than crafting each piece individually.

I’m building HMS Victory, and in this thread, I plan to compile links to the posts in my build diary that touch on 3D modeling, printing, and creating finished parts from printed blanks. This includes error handling, software setup and parameters, life hacks, and, of course, practical examples of production. Along the way, I’ve created a kind of counter to track the parts I’ve made using 3D printing. So, let’s dive in!

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This is the introductory section (prologue), where I discuss errors such as:
1. Issues with scaling,
2. Correct positioning and supports,
3. Eliminating visible print layers, post-processing, and painting, etc.

>>> Link to the post "Errors in 3D" <<<

I am with you 100%. In my opinion, there is no good reason not to create parts for models using 3D printing. The metal parts typically provided are CAST, not unlike 3D printing. Wood parts are milled from stock. Again, not unlike 3D printing. All are methods that manipulate materials to a wanted shape. Of course each material has it's place and to that I say to each his own. And 3d printing can offer one other thing: detail. Detail and maybe even accuracy. When you see a model sitting in a glass case on display, it is supposed to be a representative of the item it really was. I like to use all the tools at my disposal.

 

[serikoff]

I am with you 100%. In my opinion, there is no good reason not to create parts for models using 3D printing. The metal parts typically provided are CAST, not unlike 3D printing. Wood parts are milled from stock. Again, not unlike 3D printing. All are methods that manipulate materials to a wanted shape. Of course each material has it's place and to that I say to each his own. And 3d printing can offer one other thing: detail. Detail and maybe even accuracy. When you see a model sitting in a glass case on display, it is supposed to be a representative of the item it really was. I like to use all the tools at my disposal.

I will be glad to see like-minded people in my review)) I am glad that I am not alone

 

[Walterone]

I use 3D printing in cases where I'm not able to make a part by hand, like decor, or if I need a lot of identical little things, like port cover hinges in 1:75 scale. For me, a 3D printer is just another machine.

 

[serikoff]

I use 3D printing in cases where I'm not able to make a part by hand, like decor, or if I need a lot of identical little things, like port cover hinges in 1:75 scale. For me, a 3D printer is just another machine.

View attachment 485701View attachment 485702

I did it in a similar way. Only I made the lid together with the hinges on the ports (the outer part of the port lid). And I will glue the inner part of the lid from wood. I also plan to model the decor.

 

[JerryTodd]

I will be glad to see like-minded people in my review)) I am glad that I am not alone

If using 3D printing is blasphemy, then it's good I'm already an atheist. I'm building very specific boats at a scale you won't find parts vendors supporting, further they are all RC with good chances of being damaged in transport and use. 3D modeling allows me to make parts very specific to my models, but consistently repeatable (like cannons and turnbuckles) as well as replaceable (If Macedonian's figurehead is knocked off, for instance). Of course I have to make the 3D models to have something to 3D print (click a pic to see it larger)

Some examples of my work, so far.


I also post STLs that I think may be of use to others on Thingiverse.

 

[serikoff]

If using 3D printing is blasphemy, then it's good I'm already an atheist. I'm building very specific boats at a scale you won't find parts vendors supporting, further they are all RC with good chances of being damaged in transport and use. 3D modeling allows me to make parts very specific to my models, but consistently repeatable (like cannons and turnbuckles) as well as replaceable (If Macedonian's figurehead is knocked off, for instance). Of course I have to make the 3D models to have something to 3D print (click a pic to see it larger)

Some examples of my work, so far.
View attachment 485709 View attachment 485710 View attachment 485711 View attachment 485712 View attachment 485713 View attachment 485714 View attachment 485715 View attachment 485719 View attachment 485720 View attachment 485721 View attachment 485722 View attachment 485723 View attachment 485724 View attachment 485725 View attachment 485726

I also post STLs that I think may be of use to others on Thingiverse.

Great work. Yes... in your case it is more difficult to do if you do not use 3D.

 

[Kevin the Lubber]

I think you might find that there are quite a lot of us using 3D tech now, and the number will only grow. I think 3D will overtake plastic at some point, though wood will probably remain as a labour of love.

 

[serikoff]

I think you might find that there are quite a lot of us using 3D tech now, and the number will only grow. I think 3D will overtake plastic at some point, though wood will probably remain as a labour of love.

View attachment 485943

And I just made the gallery from scratch and successfully glued everything. I don't have 100% similarity with the original, but I created based on the original dimensions. Yes... I think the tree will always be there, but printing will make life easier in many places.

 

[serikoff]

In this section, I demonstrate how I integrated the printed details into the hull, alternating them with wooden elements. The gallery, for now, can be considered complete. I’ll return to it when it’s time to model and attach the decorative elements.

>>> Link to the post "3D- 03"<<< (vol. 1)
>>> Link to the post "3D- 03"<<< (vol. 2)

 

[jackofalltrades]

@serikoff
I am glad I found this thread because I had the same thoughts with my current Halcon 1:100 build. Some of the kit equipment parts were too coarse and off scale. So I started modelling and 3D printing the guns, the capstan etc. but felt a bit uneasy about it.
In the end I am glad I dit it since it really boosts the visuals.
My final boss seems to the belaying pins in that scale. I am really not sure, what to do about them. At 3,5-4mm length they will be unprintable. Turning them on the lathe with a shape iron is also hardly possible at that scale due to the diameter.

 

[Kevin the Lubber]

At 3,5-4mm length they will be unprintable

Completely printable at that size. On that HMS Victory stern that you see above, the window bars are 0.3mm thick. (By coincidence, I finished the revision of this yesterday and will be posting about that presently). The issue with pins at this diameter is that they break easily, so you need to use a flexible resin.

But if you only have a filament printer then yes, belay pins at 1:100 are probably not possible. A workaround could be to print the handles, as these have a larger cross section, with a centre hole, and glue in 0.5 (or smaller) brass rod cut to length.

 

[Philski]

I think they would print ok with a decent resin printer.

 

[Jack Sparrow]

I will be glad to see like-minded people in my review)) I am glad that I am not alone

no you aren`t alone, believe me. I have been fiddling with my 3d printer forever and where I can create a part I will. I also have a 3d scanner that I want to use in the workflow, but I haven`t figured out how to use it yet.

 

[Kevin the Lubber]

3d scanner

Until I win a lottery I’ve given up on that. I bought a budget handheld model last year but sold it on within a few months. Nowhere near sophisticated enough for our game. I imagine pro-quality gear does a better job but suspect you would still need to put in many hours converting the scan if dimensional accuracy mattered (which it did for me).

 

[jackofalltrades]

Completely printable at that size. On that HMS Victory stern that you see above, the window bars are 0.3mm thick. (By coincidence, I finished the revision of this yesterday and will be posting about that presently). The issue with pins at this diameter is that they break easily, so you need to use a flexible resin.

But if you only have a filament printer then yes, belay pins at 1:100 are probably not possible. A workaround could be to print the handles, as these have a larger cross section, with a centre hole, and glue in 0.5 (or smaller) brass rod cut to length.

Thanks for your reply, yes you are right, a resin printer would do the job. Unfortunately I only own two FDM printers.
Two other ideas I have are roll forming some malleable dough with a printed matrix or casting heads on brass pins in a silicon mold.
Need to test around a bit.

 

[Huc Bernard]

I will be glad to see like-minded people in my review)) I am glad that I am not alone

Hello,
I share your opinion.
I'd like to add that for me printing itself is a simple process, not a complex one. Besides, resin stinks, sticks and gives me pimples. The main interest lies in the creation of the 3D model. And at the end of the day, it's a pleasure to look at an object that's initially unique and often almost impossible to make by hand:

 

[serikoff]

@jackofalltrades @Kevin the Lubber @Philski @Jack Sparrow @Huc Bernard
Friends, thank you for your answers and support of the topic. You have almost answered each other's questions, but I want to add. A photopolymer printer can print very small parts, but! When I printed them, the problem was not in the printing itself, but in the fact that if the thickness of the part is 0.1-0.2 mm, it can deform and bend during the final processing (while raw) and break (after exposure), so you need to intentionally slightly increase some parts for reinforcement and for banal visualization, since very small details will not be visible on the model. When I made windows, they bent a little because they were thin, so I slightly increased the diameter of the frame. In general, you need to experiment, naturally, if you have your own printer. Regarding the smell, then yes .. there is little pleasant about it. That's why I print when no one is home and do everything in gloves and a mask after. I'm currently busy with a few other tasks and everything that needed to be printed is already ready, but when there is time for painting and fixing, I will return to this topic more than once, stay tuned)