USS Enterprise CV-6 1/200 Trumpeter

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savas

savas

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Hello all,

Hm, it has been a while, I mainly do aviation, but I had this model for about two or more years in my stash, and I decided somehow that it is time...
This will be my first carrier, first WW2 and first this large ship, the only ones I''ve done were Queen Mary 2 and cargo ship from revell... Other than that I've done 2 wooden ships... So I wish myself luck. Now my goal is to be done with in within a year... Quite optimistic I know, but we will see...
What are the plans for it? I would love to put some LED like I did on the Queen Mary 2, also I want to populate the ship with planes... Dunno if I will print them on buy them, that is to be determined...
Now what I got for it:
MK1 design detail up set with the wooden deck. The amount of PE makes me cry a bit, but somehow I hope I will manage...
A book about the ship from Legends of warfare by David Doyle.
and well, that is it for now...

1/24 car for scale...
IMG20250208154502.jpg

Also trumpeter being trumpeter, the main ship part is not for CV-6 I found that a bit funny...

IMG20250208154540.jpg

No the actual work will start soon, just have to somehow find some space for it because this thing... its HUGE.
Any tips tricks are very appreciated, if I make a mistake, please tell me how I can correct it or avoid in future :)
 
good luck with your build! looking forward to following it, often toyed of buying one of trumpey 1/200 carriers?
 
mfwic17 said:
good luck with your build! looking forward to following it, often toyed of buying one of trumpey 1/200 carriers?
Click to expand...
I bought it because I like the F4U corsair, and it did some test runs on the CV-6, and the kit was a good deal. Don't like trumpeter much, but they have the most options...

Davidp said:
what time period of the war are you going to do the model?
CV-5 USS Yorktown Booklet of General Plans (1940) https://archive.org/details/cv5bogp1940

Specifications and Armament

Outstanding warships, the Yorktown-class carriers were built with the experience gained from earlier carrier designs.
www.cv6.org
Click to expand...
The first part, before it got painted in "camo" Not sure as how accurately I will do it, but I am sure that I wont do camo (I don't like the look of it)

Now the tump hull is... well... needs work... I want to add the lines (or actual plates) that were visible on the ship because trumpeter hull is completely smooth... Not sure atm how to do it, scribe it or add styrene plates or anything else that be easier, so that is on hold a bit. I started to sand the hull windows down, since trumpeter managed to make some of them oval and I will be adding PE on them. Also general mold line sanding is being done.

IMG20250208190007.jpgrn_image_picker_lib_temp_7e965445-e237-44d6-b81c-daa05b8765fb.jpg
 
how far away in distance is the camera from the real ship in the photograph but remember your model's scale is 1/200?
use paint as anything else would be overscaled in doing the hull plating.
what aircraft & aa guns come with the kit?
are you going to do the armor belt which can be done with sheet plastic?
 
Last edited:
savas said:
Hello all,

Hm, it has been a while, I mainly do aviation, but I had this model for about two or more years in my stash, and I decided somehow that it is time...
This will be my first carrier, first WW2 and first this large ship, the only ones I''ve done were Queen Mary 2 and cargo ship from revell... Other than that I've done 2 wooden ships... So I wish myself luck. Now my goal is to be done with in within a year... Quite optimistic I know, but we will see...
What are the plans for it? I would love to put some LED like I did on the Queen Mary 2, also I want to populate the ship with planes... Dunno if I will print them on buy them, that is to be determined...
Now what I got for it:
MK1 design detail up set with the wooden deck. The amount of PE makes me cry a bit, but somehow I hope I will manage...
A book about the ship from Legends of warfare by David Doyle.
and well, that is it for now...

1/24 car for scale...
View attachment 500021

Also trumpeter being trumpeter, the main ship part is not for CV-6 I found that a bit funny...

View attachment 500022

No the actual work will start soon, just have to somehow find some space for it because this thing... its HUGE.
Any tips tricks are very appreciated, if I make a mistake, please tell me how I can correct it or avoid in future :)
Click to expand...
Good luck with the build. I have one of the Trumpeter 1/200 WW2 carriers on my wish list. :) Looking forward to seeing you progress this famous ship.
 
savas said:
I bought it because I like the F4U corsair, and it did some test runs on the CV-6, and the kit was a good deal. Don't like trumpeter much, but they have the most options...


The first part, before it got painted in "camo" Not sure as how accurately I will do it, but I am sure that I wont do camo (I don't like the look of it)

Now the tump hull is... well... needs work... I want to add the lines (or actual plates) that were visible on the ship because trumpeter hull is completely smooth... Not sure atm how to do it, scribe it or add styrene plates or anything else that be easier, so that is on hold a bit. I started to sand the hull windows down, since trumpeter managed to make some of them oval and I will be adding PE on them. Also general mold line sanding is being done.

View attachment 500223View attachment 500224
Click to expand...
Interesting about the panel lines. The Trumpeter 1/350 Enterprise has the lines, but they were really overdone and needed to be sanded back to make them more in scale/realistic. I've found most all of the Trumpeter ship kits need 'work'. :)
 
You are going to have to do some research. Enterprise was built when electric arc welding was just beginning to be used for shipbuilding. Before this, ship hulls were riveted. This meant that hull plates had to be lapped. There were alternative “in and “out” strakes of plating. Welded construction meant that plating was butt welded; plate edge to plate edge. This allowed “full penetration welds” that were as strong as the adjacent plates. Riveted joints were not. At 1:200 scale, butt weld seams would be invisible. 40# (I” or .02” at scale plating ) lapped riveted seams would be visible, but rivets invisible.

Your photo is confusing as it shows what appears to be prominent lapped seams but no rivets. Note: Major hull strength welds were NEVER lapped as fillet welds are weaker than the adjoining plates and cause stress concentrations. My guess is that these are riveted seams but the photo is not clear enough to show rivets.

Roger
 
OK Did a little online research. From photos, it appears that get hull was both riveted and welded construction. This is what your photo above shows. Longitudinal hull seams and some if not all plate splices were riveted (lapped). The large bow assembly shown in the photo was butt welded.

Roger
 
One thing I found helpful was to but a little weight into the hull. It IMHO makes it a little easier to handle. I took some BBs and used Exopxy to attach them to the bottom of the hull.
 
Davidp said:
use paint as anything else would be overscaled in doing the hull plating.
what aircraft & aa guns come with the kit?
are you going to do the armor belt which can be done with sheet plastic?
Click to expand...
Yeah, I will probably will use primer to make the visual overlaping, as everything else will probably look out of scale too much.

IMG20250209083846.jpg

About the armor belt I am not quite sure. Do you have references with and without?
Bryian said:
There is a great youtube series on building this model. Its called Midwest hobby shop.
Click to expand...
Yeah I know, also the Norwegian Modelling Bench. Will be a great help for me.

Wedgie01 said:
Interesting about the panel lines. The Trumpeter 1/350 Enterprise has the lines, but they were really overdone and needed to be sanded back to make them more in scale/realistic. I've found most all of the Trumpeter ship kits need 'work'. :)
Click to expand...
Yeah, as I mentioned, I tend to avoid anything trumpeter, but I like big scale things... And well, trumpeter is basically the only one...

Roger Pellett said:
OK Did a little online research. From photos, it appears that get hull was both riveted and welded construction. This is what your photo above shows. Longitudinal hull seams and some if not all plate splices were riveted (lapped). The large bow assembly shown in the photo was butt welded.

Roger
Click to expand...
yeah, as I mentioned, I have a great book about it, and I am sure that it is overlapping and riveted, but as we all discussed, it need to be really subtle. I want it because its just a huge smooth plastic part that well, IMHO needs something to look better. In the photos that I have, the oil caning is almost everywhere, the hull is not smooth at all, but as you guys pointed out considering the scale I will probably wont be able to make it look good or at least a bit natural...

IMG20250209085043.jpg
IMG20250209085217.jpg
IMG20250209085346.jpg
IMG20250209085407.jpg
 
the armor belt is 4" thick so at 1/200 scale it would be .02" thick. download the Yorktown plans i linked above & look at Sheet 3 - Outboard Profile Starboard & Sheet 17 - Outboard Profile Port Side. the belt sits just above the waterline but most of it is below that line from the forward 5" guns to just past the outboard props.
 
3rdJerseyman said:
If anywhere near NYC it might be worthwhile to visit the Intrepid.
Click to expand...
Yeah, that would be nice, but I am from Europe :)

anyway, I started with the windows, drilled all of them, the oval ones made me chuckle a bit, but that's trumpeter for you. Next up will bet the welded sheet imitation, I will paint it to make the difference, because on half of the pictures you can't see them at all

made a video for the windows youtube short but there isin't much to show at them moment
 
hello, tiny progress on the ship...
Oh boy how time and material consuming thing this is... I painted the ship with primer, the difference in the layers is sublte, almost exactly what I wanted, but the real deal will be visible with paint in later stages. I think I did not overdoe it but the difference in thickness is there, I can feel it with my fingers. I will sand it a little bit the edges to make it more uniform and not so sharp, but for now, this is what I got (sorry for the eye sore of my work place mess :) )
IMG20250218222932.jpg
 
Hello,
Some progress update. I painted the waterline part, and started to add the degaussing lines. From previous builders ir agreed that using PE for the lines was not gonna cut it, so I bought some strips (not enough apparently) and used the PE as a guide to see where to put them. It makes a huge difference, so well worth it in my opinion. Now I will have to wait for more rods, it took me almost 20 pcs of 0.5x250mm for one side... Still finishing my F-16 so not much progress on the ship for now...
IMG20250303213159.webp
IMG20250303213322.webp
 
savas said:
I bought it because I like the F4U corsair, and it did some test runs on the CV-6, and the kit was a good deal. Don't like trumpeter much, but they have the most options...


The first part, before it got painted in "camo" Not sure as how accurately I will do it, but I am sure that I wont do camo (I don't like the look of it)

Now the tump hull is... well... needs work... I want to add the lines (or actual plates) that were visible on the ship because trumpeter hull is completely smooth... Not sure atm how to do it, scribe it or add styrene plates or anything else that be easier, so that is on hold a bit. I started to sand the hull windows down, since trumpeter managed to make some of them oval and I will be adding PE on them. Also general mold line sanding is being done.

View attachment 500223View attachment 500224
Click to expand...
The Trumpeter Titanic hull comes with “oval” portholes as well. My understanding is that this is the result of molding the single hull (as opposed to doing it in two halves). I filled mine with putty and re-drilled them.

I see what you’re saying about the lack of plating detail. The real ship appears to be made up of welded plates and I wonder just how much you’d notice the seams at 1/200 scale. A lesson learned from my Titanic quagmire is to decide on your objectives early and prioritize your details accordingly. This means you need to ask yourself what will be noticed and appreciated by you and an observer vs. what will be hours of work wasted. An example of this for me was installing the plating on the bottom of the Titanic hull. That was more than 600 individual plates I put there and nobody is going to notice. ROTF I suspect the bang for the buck for this project will be in the hanger decks and flight decks. I’ll bet you can barely notice the sides of the hull when everything is done.
 
Hello,
small progress... So I fixed the color of the hull. Before I used ammo atom suggested color (blood red) that was completely wrong as seen. So I bought mr hobby hull red, and now it's fine I think.
IMG20250308222247.jpg
rn_image_picker_lib_temp_a2e0b903-68c5-4542-9535-c42bc7abd49f.jpg

Now since I am waiting some parts for the degaussing lines I started to build the planes. I'm going for midway build, so with some help I found that I need:
27pcs. F4F-4,
38pcs SBD
14pcs TBD
In total 79 planes... But I need some of them in folded wing design, and that's a problem. Ones I've found are either completely insanely priced, or not folded (trumpeter) That leaves me with something to think about... Also thinking what to do with the glass frames... How to paint them...
rn_image_picker_lib_temp_ec6e1aeb-d37a-4a86-9bec-986400efc6f8.jpgIMG20250311093703.jpg
 
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