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Discussion The Cost of Kit vs Scratch Build: A Real Divide or Just Perspective?

Okay, I'll bite:
Excellent Analysis. Kit prices have always been high for those who cannot afford them. A plastic kit in 1965 for $1 would be the same as a kit for $10 today, and such kits are available. Hobby Lobby is famous for discounting kits and supplies. During my work years, I salvaged woods and metals from many places; pallets can contain exotics, wood shops, furniture makers and retailers, any place that ships products can be a surprising place, small pieces of scrap metal can be gotten from machine shops if you are nice and polite and ask. Keep in mind, however, that not all wives appreciate growing stacks of salvage; keep it neat and orderly. The world is open to all, as long as one does not feel entitled, and realizes that most of what you see is already someone else's stash. Field service techs tell stories of deliveries of machinery in places where the crates become offices, shops, and homes before the machinery is running; where heavy crates are still transported through SE Asia jungles on log rollers because a truck cannot get through. In some parts of this world nothing is wasted except plastic bottles and bags, while here in the USA, there are piles of usable materials everywhere. Volunteer for awhile at a place like St Vincent De Paul, and you would be amazed at what comes in for donation, and what is discarded as unsellable and tossed. If you sharpen your own blades, you will want for nothing. Really. It is a real feast for the scratch model builder. I cannot remember when I was not building something. My mother told me that I was the easiest kid to shop for, it just had to have lots of little pieces. Life is a blast, and building stuff is what humans do. I am an Industrial Millwright Mechanic. (Retired) I have a large selection of hammers, and I know how to use each and every one of them!
 
My most recent completed project: the Leudo Veneziano kit by Falconet. It cost me about $160.00 made in Pearwood and includes everything: quality parts, fittings, pre-sewn sail, step-by-step instructions - all designed for authenticity and without needing aftermarket upgrades. It's honestly a great value! This model was built as is, from the box... using a hobby knife, rotary tool, and wood glue (not supplied).
Keep in mind that in 1965 that US$160 would be $15.71 in 2025 dollars. I do not know if such a kit would have been available then, but that was about when my parents balked at the cost of the Revell Cutty Sark, which can be had today for $129 from Amazon. Prices have gone down!
 
Keep in mind that in 1965 that US$160 would be $15.71 in 2025 dollars. I do not know if such a kit would have been available then, but that was about when my parents balked at the cost of the Revell Cutty Sark, which can be had today for $180 or so.
... I bought this kit a few years ago, as mentioned, for $160.00
 
Keep in mind that in 1965 that US$160 would be $15.71 in 2025 dollars. I do not know if such a kit would have been available then, but that was about when my parents balked at the cost of the Revell Cutty Sark, which can be had today for $129 from Amazon. Prices have gone down!
You misread the online calculator. $1.00 USD in 1965 would be equivalent to $15.71 USD in 2025.

$160.00 USD in 1965 adjusted for inflation would be equivalent to $1,624.38 USD in 2025.
 
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Dave Stevens and wife went to a rummage sale today. He has photos of a $30 or best offer table saw (no he didn’t buy it.) The saw appears to be built like a tank and could be tuned up to be entirely serviceable for milling model ship lumber. There’s probably many more of these lurking in basements.

Roger
Yes..I have and old Craftsman 6.5 " jointer , a 1945 Dunlap iron table saw, a little larger than my Byrnes.. both belt driven old lumps, but fun to use..watch your fingers. paid $100 for the jointer and the Dunlap was free.
 
Hello Jim, hello colleagues, I find this a very interesting topic. There are so many great pros and cons discussed here. What keeps coming up for me in this discussion is the issue of costs. Money is and always will be a sticking point. Kit or POF, which is cheaper and what tools do I need. As some of you know, I now build scratch models and after 3 years I still see myself as a beginner. But what are my machines? Scroll saw, MF70 router and now a slightly larger one, a disc sander, a small table saw, a spindle sander and, for about 7 months, a small lathe. If I calculate the total costs at around €3000, that's a lot of money all at once, but if I calculate it back over the 3 years, I'm at around €85 a month. As I said, everything was bought over time. The question is, of course, do I really need it because 400 years ago none of these tools existed, but there were exactly these POF models that can be admired in museums today. Not really, but we live in the modern world and we want to make things easier and time is just as important, so modern tools are needed. As for the cost of the kits and their quality, it depends on what I want, POB or POF. Do I value quality, how big is the model and what am I into? Is it small sailing boats between €100 - €200 or large ships of the line that easily cost over €1000. Or we can opt for a POF kit, which costs €1500 or more from the relevant Chinese manufacturers. It is usually made from cherry wood, which is so dry that it is sometimes no fun to work with. Here I would like to specifically talk about frame construction. The advantage is that everything is ready-made and I don't have to saw anything out, make complex copies, cut them out and glue them on. However, it doesn't save me the work of removing the unsightly charring caused by the laser process. Once the frame is finished, it still needs to be worked on just like a homemade one, and I need the same tools as for a DIY build. That means whether I buy a kit or build it myself, I need a certain amount of tools.

On the subject of wood, yes, opinions differ here. In principle, I can use any wood, it's a matter of personal taste. In the second post I read the term "holy trinity", which sums it up very well. Pear, boxwood and ebony are probably the most popular woods for scratch building, why is that? Clear answer, the grain suits the scale which is usually 1:48 very well. Pear and boxwood are also very nice to work with. If I decide on beech or oak, for example, and were to build in 1:72 scale, the grain and structure of the wood would not suit and I find it unsightly, even if I am an excellent model maker, it would be distracting to look at. Unless I decide to paint everything. Another point is the cost of wood. An example is La Renommee from CAF, basic version 1:48, cherry, briefly outlined. Chapters 1-4 and 6 currently available. 4.5 and section 5 not currently available. Costs over $1000. Since I own the monograph (€135 + additional plans for 1:36, €105 = 240€),the estimated wood material for the pear frame construction in 1:36 scale is just under 100 €. The remaining wood then comes to about €150-€200. Again, for comparison, the kit costs well over €1,000, while the self-made material with brass sheets, glue, etc., costs under €500.
Assuming I decide to build it myself, with the estimated cost of wood and the monograph at around €700, that's cheaper than the kit, which would cost me over €1,000, and I'd still have some money left over for one or two tools. I think everyone has to decide for themselves what they'd rather spend their hard-earned money on. In the long run, I see building it myself as more economical.

Enough about the costs, another point is time. I think it depends on two important factors. Your own age is one of the most important. Am I over 70 or just 35? Do I have time because I have a family or am I alone? Working life or retirement? It's a hobby and hobbies should be fun, so for me I work when I feel like it, without any pressure. At the moment I would like to work on my models but unfortunately the conversion and renovation of the house is dragging on and I don't have time to work in my shipyard. Better times will come, so much for that topic.

As for the mistakes, what can I say? Okay, some of the kits and their instructions are very good and with some of them you can be glad that there are a few pictures to go with them. You can read a lot about it in the forum here. Even with the monographs of the individual authors, there are always anomalies and errors. When it comes to construction, whether from a kit or self-build, we will always make some mistakes. In that case I have the option of either reordering the parts from the kit manufacturer, which brings us back to the topic of time, or making them myself. But I need various tools. If I build something myself, I throw it away and start from the beginning. When building the Le Coureur, I ended up building everything myself because I didn't like some things as they were in the kit or they didn't fit 100% because there were errors in the instructions. I have to be honest and say that I was often annoyed about this because if I have to do it myself because it doesn't fit, then I might as well build it from scratch.

My personal conclusion on the whole topic is: everyone should know what they want, what they are capable of and what they think they are capable of. What financial means they have and what space they have. Do they just want to build one or two models or do they plan to build 20 or more? Do they want to do it purely as a hobby or even take part in exhibitions or championships. Everyone has to decide for themselves and this brings me to the last point: the forum is important for everyone, whether young or old, amateur or professional, hobbyist or technology freak. Everyone can learn something from each other. In this case I always think of our late member Martin from England, who started the Victory with the simplest of means. Not a penny of money and yet created a real little masterpiece. These are the people who are just as important to this forum as all the professionals.

With that in mind, happy modeling to all, best regards, Tobi.
 
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Okay, I'll bite:

  • Kits can range from affordable to eye-watering, but they offer structure and support
It depends upon the quality of the kit and, to some extent, the "you get what you pay for" rule applies. After one builds a kit or three, they should be well on the way to self-reliance when it comes to "structure" and "support," and the rest can be readily obtained from a forum such as this one, if nowhere else. In this respect, the necessity of research becomes more obvious. Many rush into building headlong without learning first the skills and techniques. Once one learns how to read plans and engineer their own models from them and develops a command of how real ships are built, there aren't many valid justifications for not building original models from scratch. It's a lot like traveling. You can jump in your car and ask directions along the way, which leaves you at the mercy of those who direct you, or you can learn to read a map. (Or at least it's the way travel used to be before talking GPS screens on your dashboard! ;)) There are many "classic" books on ship modeling that serious modelers collect and rely upon as valued reference works. Building such a library, even if it's only a half dozen of the best basic books on technique, should begin before one begins unpacking a kit without being able to identify all the parts by sight. Studying such books will also give those without prior knowledge a good start at acquiring a working vocabulary of nautical terminology, which is nearly essential whether one is building a kit or building from scratch.
  • Scratch might seem cheap at first, until you factor in plans, wood, tools, mistakes, and time.
There's no limit to how much anybody can spend on a hobby if they have the means, but, at the other end of the spectrum, scratch building requires very little, even in the way of tools, over and above what is required to build a kit.

Plans are often readily available at no cost at all, save perhaps the purchase of a book full of them. At most, if one is really serious about building a very accurate period model, they may have to drop two or three hundred dollars for copies of original drawings from one of the top maritime museums, but one could easily fill a lifetime of modeling U.S. naval fighting vessels from one or another of Howard I. Chapelle's books which are usually very inexpensive when purchased used online. This assumes one knows how to read the plans and tables of offsets and can draft their own scale loftings, not a difficult task at all for a kid who took mechanical drawing in high school or an adult who reads how it's done in any number of modeling or full-scale boatbuilding books. Even if one finds drafting daunting, they can always purchase a practicum. Even the most expensive ones for the most detailed period models will cost less than a quarter of what the kit for the same or similar model would run you. (E.g., David Anscherl's four volume set, The Fully Framed Model - The Swan Class Sloops, which is a step-by-step instruction manual that covers every possible step in the construction process can be had for $235 USD used on eBay. See: https://www.ebay.com/itm/177119638656?_ul=US&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5339046648&toolid=10001&customid=eb:b:vms:eb:p:177119638656;86221cffa6a413933e2d74c2b6852515&msclkid=86221cffa6a413933e2d74c2b6852515&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PMax US&utm_term=2324505021064440&utm_content=PMax Assets) Here again, the more you know, the less you have to pay somebody else to provide for you.

Wood is where you find it and it's everywhere. There is no reason why a scratch builder need be constrained to the "Holy Trinity" of pearwood, boxwood, and ebony at today's prices. Even if wood is purchased, very little is required, relatively speaking. Here again, knowledge is money. There are many species that are eminently suitable for modeling. Many of these are right in anyone's neighborhood. What the tree services toss in their woodchippers would make a knowledgeable modeler cry. Many ornamental plantings yield great modeling wood in quantities insufficient for commercial harvesting, but plenty for modelers who only need small pieces. It depends where you live. Here in the U.S. cherry, apple, and pear trees grow most places, but only cherry is readily available commercially. Recycled wood should not be overlooked, either. Ebony and ivory are free for the taking in small pieces from discarded old pianos. Some of the high-grade real mahoganies and walnuts are to be found in old discarded furniture, sometimes hidden beneath a few coats of house paint. Keep an eye out for solid mahogany, chestnut, and walnut doors and trim from old building demolition, too! (I'm not talking about the low-grade open grained highly figured stock found in the model kits here. I'm talking about the really good and now unobtainable stuff that is suitable for scale modeling.)

Tools, as mentioned above, are no different than for assembling kits. There's no absolute necessity to invest in expensive power tools to scratch build. The expensive tools only make the job easier and faster. Actually, for many, acquiring and owning the tools many invest in is part of the joy of modeling, scratch or otherwise. However, it is important to note that just as "knowledge is money," so also are tools money for the scratch builder. This is particularly so with respect to a decent scroll and micro-sized table saw and a thickness sander. Getting out curved shapes with a hand saw can be very tedious and a suitable used scroll saw can be had for fifty bucks. The table saw is necessary to get out strip wood and saw larger pieces to size and the thickness sander needed to size stock. These operations can be done with a hand saw and a plane, but, here again, it's tedious work and considerable skill is required to do it well with hand tools. More significantly, if one is doing their own milling, the micro saw blade takes a tiny bite, while a larger saw (Harlod Hahn used an 8" table saw when wood was cheap) eats up a lot of wood in its kerf. The thin slitting blades avoid turning half your planking stock into sawdust to yield what you need. I'll mention at this point that in my opinion, and those of many others, the Byrnes Model Machines table saw is the only one worth spending money on. I think they are around $500 US these days, but you can always sell it, possibly for a profit, when you're done with it. Milling larger billets down to scale size milling stock can always be done if you have a friend with a bandsaw or large table saw, or access to a local high school or junior college wood shop classroom. There is no question that if one mills their own scale wood, they will not only free themselves from the limitations and expense of dimensioned scale lumber but also will certainly amortize the cost of such power tools with the savings over buying milled scale stock for three or four models and as mentioned, such precision tools maintain their value well over time. Buying used tools in good shape also promises large reductions in acquisition costs, obviously.

Mistakes cost the scratch builder nothing. It's just a "do-over." There's no need to buy replacement parts or abandon a kit when the lost part is no longer obtainable. How much money has been wasted by kit buyers who become discouraged and frustrated with expensive kits and never finish them, or worse, collect expensive kits they will never have the time to build? Most scratch builders have far larger "stashes" of unbuilt kits in their heads and on the shelves of their libraries than any kit buyer could ever imagine! Redface

Time is also a non-issue for the scratch builder. What the scratch builder might spend in time is saved in money. The scratch builder's knowledge takes time to acquire, but, aside from research and planning being a joy in itself, the scratch builder doesn't have to pay the kit manufacturer hundreds of dollars to have done it for him. As for the satisfaction many find in creating a unique one-off model of a vessel rarely seen elsewhere, the ability to say, "No, it wasn't a kit. Everything you see there is my own work." isn't available at any price anywhere else.

  • Do you think one is more "accessible" than the other?
That depends upon what you mean by "accessible." Kits are readily "accessible" and so are scratch build subjects, but, as noted above, kits permit one to purchase what the scratch builder acquired by study and experience, and yet, the scratch-built model is a unique artistic expression of the builder's research and creativity. If that makes any difference to a modeler, the scratch model may be less "accessible" to the less experienced modeler (or as I call them, ship modeling's "gateway drug.") Kits certainly have their place and most scratch builders started building kits and "grew out of them" as their skills and experience increased from their experience with kits. As for economic "accessibility," it's my guess that somebody could get started in scratch building with an initial investment of a few hundred bucks in tools and books which would then serve to build as many models as they might desire with very little additional cost (until they started wanting fancier power tools,) while a quality kit could cost the beginning modeler as much, but likely two or three times as much, just to buy their first model and each and every one they built thereafter would require the same expense again.
  • Have rising kit prices changed your build habits?
No, but only because I lost interest in building kits long ago. If I had limited myself to building kits, I doubt I'd be dropping the money they want for the good ones these days. I don't begrudge the kit manufacturers' their "rice bowls," but I am afraid that economies of scale production and the production costs today very likely are on the road to pricing kit building out of existence. I expect that the future of "accessible" ship modeling is now in the quality practicums of authors like David Anscherl, Jean Boudriot, and Harold Hahn, rather than the four-figure "mega-kits."
  • And does cost affect how you participate in the forum or interact with others?
Not at all. I am, however, keenly aware that those who are new to ship modeling may not have the money to bankroll the sort of workshop and tool collection I and other "old timers" have acquired over decades of modeling. I try to encourage them to take it easy and budget for the "must have" tools, buying second-hand as I have over the years, and "making do" until something affordable comes along. "He who dies with the most tools wins!," but nobody has to buy them all at full price right out of the gate!

So now, I've risked getting "flamed" for being "elitist," or worse, earned the enmity of the kit manufacturers, but that's how I see if from the perspective of more than fifty years in the game. I'm not rich, nor "elitist." Neither am I a "world class" ship modeler. It's just what I do for fun. (And, sometimes for money, but then, I've discovered, it's not as much fun.)
Very thoughtful voice of experience! Every word makes sense to me.

I'm at the point with tools and skill with those tools where I can make every part of a ship kit IF I know what that part looks like. In fact, I've broken parts or didn't like parts of a kit and made same from scratch. I thought I could read plans. I just have one college drafting class 48 years ago. However, for the life of me when I see someone post plans of a ships hull, for instance the view from the bow showing overlapped frames, I don't see how one gets from that overlay to individual frames. Seems like I'm missing something.

It pains me to admit it, because I am less a builder, but I would be much better off buying the complete set of plans from a kit and then scratch building from plans. I have not found a way to do that though. I know my major weakness is the lack of knowledge.



I digress.
 
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However, for the life of me when I see someone post plans of a ships hull, for instance the view from the bow showing overlapped frames, I don't see how one gets from that overlay to individual frames. Seems like I'm missing something.

Get yourself a copy of Allan Vaitses' book, Lofting. It is the Bible on the subject. Easily understood and profusely illustrated. It has all the instructions for generating frame shapes, etc. It covers the basics, as well as the complex, such as lofting curved-faced elliptical transoms! Don't be intimidated. It's easy to comprehend when you have the illustrated instructions in hand. Your college drafting class should come back to you if you start using it. If not, find a used drafting textbook and refresh your memory. (I have a couple in my library and refer to them occasionally.)

See: https://www.amazon.com/Lofting-Alla...s=books&sprefix=lofting,stripbooks,175&sr=1-1)
 
However, for the life of me when I see someone post plans of a ships hull, for instance the view from the bow showing overlapped frames, I don't see how one gets from that overlay to individual frames. Seems like I'm missing something.

each line is half of a frame. you trace each line, then flip it over and trace the other half to make each frame.

imagin if you cut out each frame and piled them up, that is what it would like. they are also numbered to coincide with the side view of the hull also numbered where each frame is to be installed on the keel.
 
I would be much better off buying the complete set of plans from a kit and then scratch building from plans.
yes you can buy plans like that. you can follow the plans like a blue print. since parts arent laid out for you, use your mechanical intuition to make parts to fit. look up a build log of your ship to give you ideas n techniques.

to make things interesting, as you gain experiance and skills, do some research to embelish the ship with more accurate details that may have been ommited in the plans.

now go have fun!
 
to make things interesting, as you gain experiance and skills, do some research to embelish the ship with more accurate details that may have been ommited in the plans.
This is a great suggestion Bowwild. Most kits are based to some degree on contemporary plans but for sake of keeping things affordable and other reasons, some details are not addressed or are at times may be incorrect. Free downloads of thousands of contemporary plans are available today thanks to the internet and can be used to compare against modern redrawn plans IF YOU WANT TO. Do you have any specific ships in mind?
Allan
 
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you can skip the tedious job of lifting frame shapes from hull lines, plotting the bevels etc and just carve out a 1/2 hull from a dense foam board the slice it at each frame location. You still have to trace around the slice but it so much easier and faster than lifting each frame shape from hull lines.

finished hull 2.jpgfinished hull 3.jpg
 
each line is half of a frame. you trace each line, then flip it over and trace the other half to make each frame.

imagin if you cut out each frame and piled them up, that is what it would like. they are also numbered to coincide with the side view of the hull also numbered where each frame is to be installed on the keel.
1749754048399.png
One side of the body plan represents the shapes of the section lines from midships to the stem. The other side, midships to the stern.

If the section lines are too far apart to use as frames alone, additional section lines can be generated by simply constructing a series of points between two existing section lines which are exactly one half of the distance between the two adjacent provided section lines on any diagonal and connect those points using a batten or drafting curves to construct intermediate station lines.

Frames do not always fall on section lines, nor even always are equally spaced. In such circumstances, the shape of any frame can be constructed at any point on the hull using the distance from the centerline to the side of the hull at each waterline as in the above half-breath plan.

Of course, as Dave noted above, there's no need to mess with frames at all if you build a solid hull of stacked waterline shapes, which is a lot faster and easier than planking on frames or bulkheads. Actually, the way most all the great contemporary models to be seen in museums were built, save those which intentionally were left unplanked to show the structure of the framing (e.g., many of the Admiralty Board style models,) are constructed with built up lifts.
 
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the topic is drifting away this is cost of kit vs scratch

but maybe the topic has run its course and nothing more to say

if you want to learn drafting and plans i can take it to the school for model ship building

i have a number of tutorials on the subject
 
is this what your looking for
If not, it's a keeper! That's for sure, although for me it would be for academic interest only. ... I don't have much interest in diving into CAD to any depth at this late date in my life. I'm just too much of a Luddite. Besides, "lofting" isn't about drawing a rotational 3D structural plan of the entire vessel. It's about only making the minimum number of patterns necessary to define the hull shape. Once those relatively few shapes are known, gotten out of the building stock, and assembled, everything else in the process of construction can be derived in the fitting of subsequent parts from the hull structure itself as the ship, or model, is being built.
 
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