POB 1/48 Hayling - Modelship Dockyard

[Luiz B. F. Grassi]

Hi Jackie, congratulations on the excellent work ! What's the diameter of LED bulbs are using ?

Thanks, I'm planning to use 3mm for internal lighting and 5mm for the stern lanterns

Thanks Luiz, the LEDs came in 3mm. You may find them from local shop or Tume/Aliexpress. Cheers.

Thanks,

 

[Jackie Wolf]

Your work is fantastic Jackie, but I'm just a bit confused. The first words you posted in the log were:



Yet ... it sure looks like POF. Could you explain why you say this is a POB build?

You are right, it will looks like a POF model eventually. I said that cuz the build still goes through a traditional POB process.

 

[Jackie Wolf]

I thicken the tail section with strips, so that the window frames are no longer flush with it, making the whole section look more vivid.

 

[Albert Mary]

View attachment 537838


I thicken the tail section with strips, so that the window frames are no longer flush with it, making the whole section look more vivid.

Great idea! That's much better! May I ask you how you removed char off the tiny lights frames?

 

[AllanKP69]

the tiny lights frames

Nice to see the "windows" called by their period name, "lights"
Allan

 

[RogerD]

This is really nice work Jackie and great photos showing off your skills.

 

[Albert Mary]

Nice to see the "windows" called by their period name, "lights"
Allan

I'm thick and slow, but I've got some patient theachers here on SOS....
Thank you, Allan.

 

[Jackie Wolf]

Great idea! That's much better! May I ask you how you removed char off the tiny lights frames?

Hi Albert, I used ammonia and hydrogen peroxide wood bleach to remove those char (laster marks). Pls wear gloves or use your tweezers. Always trial before use.
I purchased them from a local hobbyshop. If not, try local chemical shop, formula and method can be found on Google.

 

[Albert Mary]

Hi Albert, I used ammonia and hydrogen peroxide wood bleach to remove those char (laster marks). Pls wear gloves or use your tweezers. Always trial before use.
I purchased them from a local hobbyshop. If not, try local chemical shop, formula and method can be found on Google.

Thanks Jackie, lovely advice!

 

[Jackie Wolf]

I was hesitated for quite a while over the deck plank width, but eventually followed the one provided in the kit, which is 4 mm.
This is becuz I would like to employ the original plank joggling in the kit.

Looks a bit stressful than the pattern of Antscherl's Hoy deck. And of course, more effort was spent to capping the deck.

 

[Darryl]

Very impressive work !

 

[Jackie Wolf]

Bench on deck & the ladder.

As deck was capped, time to make some nails. (well, SOME, but it suppose will be over 2000 nails).

 

[Jackie Wolf]

I had to re-shape the first deck plank of port and starboard to fit the rail. This is becuz the quarter deck has the very low bulwarks, as it is shown on the original plan from museum. Its a mystery how it really looks like on the ship.

 

[Jackie Wolf]

The end of the quarterdeck was even higher then the bulwark... that looks really abnormal. I suppose the edge of the quarterdeck has a very outstanding curved shape..

There is another photo how Antscherl work with this... anyway... lets give it a go

 

[RussF]

Wow, I wouldn't have wanted to be standing watch on the quarterdeck during a stormy night in rough seas! One good wave breaking over the rail and you're shark fodder.

 

[Jackie Wolf]

I was on stern watch( or MOB) at stormy 4AM on a barque AND that was my first sailing overnight at sea

Wow, I wouldn't have wanted to be standing watch on the quarterdeck during a stormy night in rough seas! One good wave breaking over the rail and you're shark fodder.