HMS Victory - Mantua 1:78 Build log

[RussF]

The main and fore shrouds on Victory in about 1803 when she was converted from being a hospital hulk were about 3.5 inches in diameter. The ratlines were no more than 1/2". For 1:78 this would be 1.2 mm for the shrouds (close to what the kit calls for) and the ratlines about 0.12mm, much smaller than what they advised.
Allan

Wow! I realize that Vicki is a big girl, but 3.5 inches?!? It makes you wonder how they were able to take a rope that thick, stiffened even more by worming, parceling and tarring, and get it to bend around the deadeyes.

 

[AllanKP69]

I looked a couple sources including doing the calculation using Lees' formulas and a ship of her length and breadth at the point in time had a circumference of 11" to 11.5", maybe a tad more. Yes, that is a heck of a thick rope. From what I can find the deadeyes were about 18 inches in diameter.

Allan

 

[RussF]

I looked a couple sources including doing the calculation using Lees' formulas and a ship of her length and breadth at the point in time had a circumference of 11" to 11.5", maybe a tad more. Yes, that is a heck of a thick rope. From what I can find the deadeyes were about 18 inches in diameter.

Allan

There must have been some type of fixture that gave some mechanical advantage when bending the stays to the deadeyes and crimping them close enough to be seized. I can't imagine a couple of men being able to do that while a third seized it. There just wouldn't be enough room for more men than that.

 

[AllanKP69]

It would be interesting to see contemporary drawings or text explanations on how this was done. The below shows the lanyard being tightened but I could not find anything yet on securing the shroud to the deadeye.

 

[Phillipsart]

Rigging Progress Update – HMS Victory Build

Today I reached a huge milestone on my Mantua HMS Victory 1:78 build – the lower section deadeye rigging and ratlines are now almost complete!

This part of the build has been a mammoth task – in fact, I calculated that I’ve tied an estimated 1,812 tiny ratline knots by hand. Each one carefully placed, tightened, and trimmed, building up the climbing ladders the sailors of the real Victory would have used to scale the masts. It’s one of those repetitive but very satisfying parts of the build, because the rigging is what really starts to bring a ship of this scale to life.

Alongside the ratlines, I’ve also begun work on the main standing rigging, the thick tarred black ropes that hold the masts solidly in place. Getting the balance and tension right is critical – too tight and it pulls the masts out of alignment, too loose and they won’t stand true. Slowly but surely, the HMS Victory’s towering masts are starting to look like the real thing.

I must say, it’s incredible to step back and see the transformation from bare wood to a ship that’s now taking on her battle-ready form. With each rope and knot tied, you can feel the history of Nelson’s flagship emerging from the model.

Still a lot more rigging to go – including the upper shrouds, more deadeyes, and eventually the running rigging for the sails – but this stage feels like a big win.

️ Progress is steady, and I’m thrilled with how she’s shaping up.

 

[Phillipsart]

The main and fore shrouds on Victory in about 1803 when she was converted from being a hospital hulk were about 3.5 inches in diameter. The ratlines were no more than 1/2". For 1:78 this would be 1.2 mm for the shrouds (close to what the kit calls for) and the ratlines about 0.12mm, much smaller than what they advised.
Allan

There is a roll of apx .25mm tan line supplied. I’m wondering if that was what I supposed to have used for the ratlines. But I’m pretty sure either in the instructions or the plans on my kit it calls for .5mm for the ratlines.

I’m going to use the .25mm lines for the top dead eyes as I have run out of the .5mm rope.

In fact I run out just as I was about to start rigging the dead eyes on the rear mast. I’m using the .25mm on that section.

To be honest you got to look hard to notice the difference. If anything. I preferred the .5 rope for the ratlines.

 

[Phillipsart]

Rigging the Upper Masts – The Next Stage of the Build

The rigging work continues, and today I’ve officially started tackling the upper masts. This stage is always both exciting and a little daunting – the higher up you go, the more intricate and delicate everything becomes.

The upper deadeyes are now in place, and I’ve begun running the shrouds and tightening them down. From there, I’ve started tying in the ratlines, which are essentially the rope ladders that sailors used to climb the rigging. It’s a very repetitive task (and one that tests your patience), but it’s also one of the most rewarding. Each set of knots creates that distinctive “webbing” look that instantly makes the rigging feel alive and authentic.

So far, everything is pulling together nicely. The ratlines are being tied evenly spaced, and under proper tension to give the right scale appearance. It’s slow work, but the detail really pays off once you step back and look at the masts from a distance.

I’ve also begun fitting the upper blocks through which the future running rigging will pass. These blocks will eventually carry the lines for the yards and sails, so their positioning and alignment are critical. Already, the fore and main tops are beginning to look busy and convincing, with a real sense of height and strength developing.

Every new section of rigging transforms the ship’s silhouette. From certain angles now, you can really imagine sailors climbing these ratlines, standing at the tops, and working the sails high above the deck.

Still a long way to go, but the progress feels fantastic. A few hundred more knots () and the masts will be fully dressed, ready for the yards and sails to follow.

Patience, precision, and persistence – that’s what this stage is all about.

 

[Phillipsart]

Victory Build Update – Bowsprit, Figurehead & More Rigging!

Today was another exciting step forward on my Mantua HMS Victory build. I’ve now mounted the bowsprit securely in place, which really starts to define the ship’s imposing lines at the bow. Along with it, I’ve also installed the ship’s ornate monument/figurehead – a truly iconic part of Victory’s identity. Painted in bold reds, deep blues, rich golds, and highlighted with the crown and supporting figures, it adds so much character to the ship’s presence.

From the deck you can now look forward and see the bowsprit stretching proudly ahead, with the detailed carvings and royal crest giving the ship the regal look she deserves. This was a fiddly but very rewarding job, as aligning everything cleanly with the stem took some patience.

Of course, no build update is complete without more rigging work – and yes, that means more ratlines too! Each one painstakingly tied, they’re slowly transforming the bare masts into a proper forest of rigging. It’s meticulous work, but there’s nothing like stepping back and seeing the web of ropes coming together – it gives the whole ship that authentic, battle-ready look.

Between the copper-plated hull glinting below, the yellow and black hull sides, and now the bowsprit and figurehead in place, Victory is really beginning to look alive. Every new addition feels like she’s inching closer to her full glory.

Plenty more rigging ahead, but this was a major milestone – and she’s looking magnificent from every angle!

Stay tuned – the journey continues one knot at a time!

 

[Phillipsart]

HMS Victory Build Update – Rigging Progress ️

Today I made a big step forward in the rigging stage of my Victory build – I’ve started tying the blocks and tackles! These little pieces are what give the ship her authentic look, and they take a steady hand and plenty of patience. Each block has to be carefully threaded and secured, and the lines tensioned correctly to sit neatly without slack.

For a while, I kept running into the same problem many modelers know too well – sticky fingers from glue while trying to secure the lines in place. But today, I finally cracked a method that works without gluing my fingers together. It’s all about carefully binding and locking the thread to the block before fitting it into position. The difference is huge – much cleaner, faster, and more accurate.

In the photos you can see:
• The progress along the masts and deck with the blocks now being fitted into their proper places.
• Close-ups of the three-hole blocks I’m working with, each tied with its own tackle line ready to be installed.
• A peek at the instruction sheet, which shows just how many different sizes and types of lines go into this part of the build.
• A bundle of blocks straight from the kit – plenty more to go before all the standing and running rigging is complete!

This stage really brings the ship to life. Once the rigging is in place, it not only looks spectacular but also frames the masts and sails in a way that makes Victory instantly recognizable as a true ship of the line.

I also filmed a short video today showing the process – tying and fitting these blocks in place – for anyone interested in seeing the rigging work up close.

Every session at the workbench brings her closer to completion, and I’m really enjoying the challenge. More updates soon as I continue to add layer upon layer of rigging! ️

 

[Phillipsart]

HMS Victory Rigging Progress Update ️

Most of the main rigging on my Mantua 1:78 scale HMS Victory is now in place – and let me tell you, this stage of the build is a monumental task. From the bowsprit right back through the masts, every line, block, and deadeye has to be positioned and tied with care.

The rigging is what really brings the ship to life. Those taut black lines crisscrossing up the masts give the model its strength and structure, just like on the real Victory. I’ve been working through the standing rigging, securing the masts and shrouds in place, and slowly moving into the finer details. The ratlines, which form the ladders for sailors to climb, are particularly time-consuming – I estimate thousands) of knots tied already!

But wow – when you step back and look at the result, it’s incredible. The web of ropes transforms the hull into a living ship. It finally feels like HMS Victory is stretching her sails and ready for action.

I’ll admit, it hasn’t been easy – the repetitive knot-tying is pretty monotonous, and leaning over for hours on end has left my back sore. So progress has slowed down a little over the past few days. But each day I add a few more lines, and the rigging steadily takes shape.

This project makes me realise the patience and precision that shipbuilding demands. The rigging isn’t just decoration – it’s historically accurate (well at least as accurate as I can get if with what I have) and functionally correct to how Nelson’s flagship would have been set up at Trafalgar.

Plenty still ahead, but it’s a milestone to see the rigging taking form so beautifully. ️
Stay tuned – sails and running rigging are yet to come!

 

[Phillipsart]

Major HMS Victory Milestone Reached! ️

After weeks (and what feels like months!) of painstaking effort, today I tied the very last of the deadeyes on my Mantua HMS Victory build. In total, that makes 187 deadeyes secured in place.

But that’s not all – I also finished tying in the final ratline. When I added it all up, it came to a staggering 3,000 individual ratline knots. Each one had to be carefully measured, tensioned, and tied by hand. To say I’m exhausted would be an understatement – but the sense of achievement is absolutely worth it.

This has been one of the most challenging parts of the build so far. The ratlines and deadeyes are what give the ship’s rigging its structure, and they make the model truly start to look like a fully-rigged ship of the line. Seeing the intricate web of lines stretch up the masts has been incredibly rewarding.

Of course, the work isn’t finished yet. I still have the running rigging to complete – all the lines that will operate the yards and sails. And yes, I’m also planning to install the sails themselves, which will really bring HMS Victory to life.

For now though, I’m taking a moment to appreciate this massive milestone. This was a huge task, and I’m thrilled with how it’s come together.

️ 187 deadeyes.

️ 3,000 knots.

️ A serious test of patience, persistence, and steady hands – and a big leap forward in this build!

 

[Phillipsart]

HMS Victory Build Update ️

Big milestone achieved today on my build of the mighty HMS Victory!

I have now completed the black tarred standing rigging – these are the heavy, load-bearing ropes that secure the masts in place. On the real ship they would have been coated in tar to protect them from the elements, so I’ve made sure to replicate that detail here with black rigging. This really transforms the look of the model, giving the masts their authentic, historically accurate strength and character.

I also made a start on fitting the stays and running rigging. The stays are the heavy ropes that tie the masts together for extra support, while the running rigging – in the lighter tan colour – will eventually control the sails and all the working lines. It’s always satisfying to see the contrast between the standing and running rigging come to life!

To finish off today’s work, I installed the flags – including the Union flag flying proudly from the mast. That small touch immediately brings the whole model to life, and you can almost picture Victory sailing out into battle under Nelson’s command.

This stage has been a massive effort – countless knots tied, ropes carefully tensioned, and hours spent threading blocks and deadeyes. But seeing the rigging web take shape across all three masts is incredibly rewarding.

Still a long way to go with more lines, blocks, and eventually the sails – but the ship is finally starting to look like the proud warship she was.

️ Onwards to the next rigging stages – it’s getting serious now!

 

[Phillipsart]

HMS Victory Build – A Sailor’s Web of Ropes ️

Today I tied in the third cross mast, the great lower yard on the forward mast — and as I worked, I couldn’t help but think of the sailors who lived their lives tangled in this forest of ropes.

For them, this wasn’t just craftwork on a quiet workbench. Imagine being sixty feet above the deck, the ship rolling under your feet, the wind howling in your ears, and tarred rope rough in your hands. Every line had its purpose — to brace the yards, haul sails, or secure the masts — and every knot had to hold under the strain of storms and battle.

On deck, ropes were coiled neatly just as I’ve done here. But for the men of the Victory, those coils were lifelines. In the chaos of battle or gale, there was no time to untangle or fumble — a line had to run free, instantly. Their lives depended on it.

The sheer complexity is staggering: miles of rope, hundreds of blocks, thousands of knots. Each mast was a tower of engineering, and every sailor had to know his station, his rope, his duty. It was a world of discipline and muscle, where a missed step could send a man plunging to the deck or into the sea.

As I weave my miniature web of rigging, I can almost hear the cries of “Haul away!” and the groan of timbers as canvas filled with wind. Building this model gives me a tiny taste of the monumental effort it took to make a ship like the Victory move, fight, and survive.

And this is just one yard… many more still await.

 

[Phillipsart]

Rigging Progress – Turning 2D Plans into 3D Reality

After a few days’ break, I’ve jumped back into the running rigging on my HMS Victory build. One thing I’ve discovered is that this part of the build demands full focus. You really need to be alert and fresh when working on these fine details—there’s no room for a tired hand or distracted eye when every line needs to be perfectly placed.

What makes this stage so fascinating is translating flat 2D plans into a 3D web of ropes, blocks, and sails. On paper, the rigging looks like neat lines and simple diagrams. In reality, it’s a living puzzle where every rope interacts with another, crossing, pulling, and balancing the masts and yards. The challenge is figuring out how those flat drawings actually come to life in three dimensions, and then tying, looping, and securing it so it looks natural and functional.

The satisfaction comes when you step back and see how the rigging starts to give the ship its character—no longer just wood and paint, but a vessel that looks ready to catch the wind. The sails are beginning to take shape, the flags fly proudly, and the tangle of lines is transforming into an ordered system that once powered a warship into battle.

This is one of those “labour of love” stages of model ship building. It’s slow, precise, and often frustrating—but also deeply rewarding. Each knot brings me closer to the day when this build will stand complete, a true tribute to the men who sailed her.



️ More progress updates to come as the rigging continues to grow across the decks and masts!

 

[Phillipsart]

️ Rigging the HMS Victory – A Journey Back in Time ️

Every time I tie in another section of the rigging on my Mantua HMS Victory build, I’m reminded of just how authentic these model kits really are. The system of deadeyes, pulleys, and blocks isn’t just for show – it’s functional, just like it was over 200 years ago when the real HMS Victory sailed into history.

It amazes me how shipbuilders of the past engineered such a complex but reliable web of rigging to control every sail, brace, and spar. Even though this is “only” a model, it’s essentially a working scale version. Every line, every pulley, every knot has a purpose – if there were tiny 3 cm tall sailors around, I reckon they could actually hoist the sails and sail this little ship around the world! ️

The more I work on her, the more I feel connected to the craftsmanship and ingenuity of the men who built and sailed these legendary ships. It’s a mix of patience, precision, and a lot of string work – but the result is a miniature piece of naval history brought to life.

Still a lot of rigging and sails to go, but seeing her come together like this makes every knot worth it.


️ HMS Victory – 1:78 Mantua wooden kit ️


Built with patience, string, and a love of history.

 

[AllanKP69]

The more I work on her, the more I feel connected to the craftsmanship and ingenuity of the men who built and sailed these legendary ships.

What a thoughtful statement, very nicely said.

Are your sails going to be shaped to be billowing as if full of wind? The reason I ask is that the St. George's Cross and Union Jack are standing out but the Church pennant is hanging down. It is interesting and nice to see that particular pennant flown on a model. It is probably easier to drape the flags using some matte medium and weight to shape them than making the pennant stand out.

Allan

 

[Phillipsart]

What a thoughtful statement, very nicely said.

Are your sails going to be shaped to be billowing as if full of wind? The reason I ask is that the St. George's Cross and Union Jack are standing out but the Church pennant is hanging down. It is interesting and nice to see that particular pennant flown on a model. It is probably easier to drape the flags using some matte medium and weight to shape them than making the pennant stand out.

Allan

Hi Allan

If possible I will setup so that the sails are filled. The rigging lines on the sails should assist on this.

That’s a great idea with the flags, in particular the church pennant. I will look into this.

 

[AllanKP69]

Hi Phillip,

I am the wrong person to ask about rigging sails. Unless I am building a large scale schooner, I have no plans to ever rig sails. To me the rigging takes too much time and looks too good to cover it from view with sails that usually look awful anyway. There is no way to make sails to scale at smaller than about 1:12 or maybe 1:24 with cloth and sewing. Those that have sails that were supplied in kits more often than not look like pieces cut from a burlap seed bag. Silkspan sails do look MUCH better but they still cover the beauty of the rigging lines IMHO.

It really does not matter what I think, if you like sails, go for it, it's your model and you get to do what YOU like.

Back to the Church pennant. These were flown when services were being held on board. Was that your intention? Pretty neat idea.

IF you decide to go without wind in the sails, drape the other flags. I make mine out of tissue or silkspan then wet them with matte medium and pull them down with a small weight like a little spring clamp until they dry.



If you are depicting your Victory at Trafalgar she carried a double pennant, one solid red, and one solid yellow. Each ship had a different combination so they could be identified by the other vessels.

 

[Phillipsart]

Hi Phillip,

I am the wrong person to ask about rigging sails. Unless I am building a large scale schooner, I have no plans to ever rig sails. To me the rigging takes too much time and looks too good to cover it from view with sails that usually look awful anyway. There is no way to make sails to scale at smaller than about 1:12 or maybe 1:24 with cloth and sewing. Those that have sails that were supplied in kits more often than not look like pieces cut from a burlap seed bag. Silkspan sails do look MUCH better but they still cover the beauty of the rigging lines IMHO.

It really does not matter what I think, if you like sails, go for it, it's your model and you get to do what YOU like.

Back to the Church pennant. These were flown when services were being held on board. Was that your intention? Pretty neat idea.

IF you decide to go without wind in the sails, drape the other flags. I make mine out of tissue or silkspan then wet them with matte medium and pull them down with a small weight like a little spring clamp until they dry.

View attachment 548182

If you are depicting your Victory at Trafalgar she carried a double pennant, one solid red, and one solid yellow. Each ship had a different combination so they could be identified by the other vessels.

View attachment 548183

Thanks for the info. Very much appreciated.

Do you know where the solid pennant and solid yellow was attached?

 

[AllanKP69]

Do you know where the solid pennant and solid yellow was attached?

From what I can figure out from what is written on the chart, the red pennant for Victory was flown from the main topmast head and the yellow pennant was "hoisted where best seen". At least that is what the chart shows. "Best seen" to me is as high as possible so with the red pennant on the main, maybe the yellow on the fore topmast head.

Allan