Doc... my point was... I don't understand why the kit has wale #14 setting 1mm lower (in a groove) than wales #16 and #20 (not in a groove)??
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I agree with your diagnosis: the one wale was set into a groove to establish the vertical for everything that follows. This would be essential given the pre-spiled planking that comes with Pavel's kits (including this one?)...
I was planning on leveling wale #14 as not sure my groove is uniform. Guess now I'll level all 3 wales to the same height. Will make a little jig with sandpaper at the bottom (set in a groove) to make all the same.
Starting on planking the transom now.
Looking at a photo from Pavel's link, the planking edges are beveled... How do I bevel the transom and hull planks uniformly?
Wait... I just remembered I had done this before with a tiny 'round-over' bit. The problem is I did this with a CNC machine that I not longer have. I believe the tiny round-over bits only come a 1/4" shank and I can't use this with a dremel. Hmmm...
Pavel's SOS link Image from his post #83
Starting on planking the transom now.
Looking at a photo from Pavel's link, the planking edges are beveled... How do I bevel the transom and hull planks uniformly?
Wait... I just remembered I had done this before with a tiny 'round-over' bit. The problem is I did this with a CNC machine that I not longer have. I believe the tiny round-over bits only come a 1/4" shank and I can't use this with a dremel. Hmmm...
Pavel's SOS link Image from his post #83
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Started preparing the transom for planking. I had see other builds where the planks were not long enough. I temporarily put them in place to see how they fit. They didn't fit well and many were too short. I checked the Pavel Store to see when I purchased the kit. 3/2022. That's quite q while ago. Possibly Pavel has corrected this problem over the years??
I lightly rounded over the edges of each transom board. Pavel has another build video of the San Bartolome. I looked at some of those videos. He uses what looks like a tiny chisel to cut the groove after the planks are installed. I don't think my skills are good enough to do this correctly. At about the 17 min mark...
So, I'll slightly round over the hull plank edges before installing them. I'll airbrush the grooves to make them black with the patina from the Pavel paint kit when staining the hull.
After rounding over the edges of the transom boards, I stuck them to tape as I was going to airbrush them like the builder did with the decking boards. But after watching some of the Bartolome videos, I saw the boards are installed unpainted.
The transom boards are ready to be installed.
I lightly rounded over the edges of each transom board. Pavel has another build video of the San Bartolome. I looked at some of those videos. He uses what looks like a tiny chisel to cut the groove after the planks are installed. I don't think my skills are good enough to do this correctly. At about the 17 min mark...
So, I'll slightly round over the hull plank edges before installing them. I'll airbrush the grooves to make them black with the patina from the Pavel paint kit when staining the hull.
After rounding over the edges of the transom boards, I stuck them to tape as I was going to airbrush them like the builder did with the decking boards. But after watching some of the Bartolome videos, I saw the boards are installed unpainted.
The transom boards are ready to be installed.
A very tidy solution to the stern planking, Rob!
I wouldn't thnk so Allan. Don't see any point reducing the thickness of the planking. Looks good to me though. And looks to me is more important than authenticity on a model ship.
I've completed the transom. Still need to sand down edges to conform to the hull shape. Will have to be careful when airbrushing the hull as there as different colored woods from the 2mm sheets. The same was true with the main deck and i managed to blend them pretty well.
Good morning Rob. Very neat and tidy. Looking good. Cheers Grant
Thank you Grant and everyone. I'm back to the wale #14 set into a groove. Wales #16 and #20 are not set into grooves. I have removed wale #14 I had earlier glued into the groove. Deciding whether to fill in the groove so #14 will match the height of #16 and #20. Or to sand #16/#20 down to the height of #14 (set in a groove) before installing.
I added a 2mms square strip of walnut either side of the rudder post before finally adding that stern strips, it cured the problem, and can't even be noticed when complete.
Did you complete the stern strip planking "OFF" the hull as a separate piece?? I noticed in Pavel's video he had planked it and then added it to the hull.
Jan
yes, I built the stern planks into a block, tried them in place and found them to be undersize, so I used some walnut I had in stock to give me a better fit.
What video Jan. I must have missed this...
Darn. I just watched the video again. All I see is gluing the stern piece on without any planking. I don't see any planing being installed anywhere in the video. Watched (again) Video #7, #8, #9. There's no planking. Then suddenly on post #79 the planking it there. What did I miss?
I probably misled you, I saw the planked stern section on the corner of the jig in the video and later watched it mounted on the hull. I figured Pavel did that piece as a later demo which brought to mind my question. On my SB build I did the stern planking while the hull was mouted in the jig. I had a "few" problems with planks fitting.
My apologies, I didn't intend to confuse things.
Jan
Sanded the transom to match contour of hull. There are colorizations to the different woods on the stern. Pieces came from different 2mm sheets and different places on the sheets. Nothing I can do about this. I'm sure the white wood on the hull will be the same. I should be able to cover this airbrushing with the Pavel paint/stain set.
I had removed the 1st layer of the 2 layer wale planks that I had previously installed. I still don't like the setup of placing one set of wales (2x2mm = 4mm height) in a groove that is about 1-1.2mm deep and 2 sets on top of the bulkhead. I'm thinking I'll place a 1.5 or so thick plank in the groove and gently sand it to the level of the bulkhead. That way all 3 wales will be the same height. Does this make any sense? Am I putting too much thought into this? Thoughts??
Looking at the above image I wish I wouldn't have installed the interior wall (bulwark) per the kit and video instructions. One can see though the bulwark as there are spaces between the boards. The inside of the hull planking will be visible through this spacing. Now I will have to try to remember to airbrush the inside of these planking pieces before installing them on the hull. Had I not already put the bulkheads in place I would have been able to airbrush the interior of the hull planks aftger they were installed.
I had removed the 1st layer of the 2 layer wale planks that I had previously installed. I still don't like the setup of placing one set of wales (2x2mm = 4mm height) in a groove that is about 1-1.2mm deep and 2 sets on top of the bulkhead. I'm thinking I'll place a 1.5 or so thick plank in the groove and gently sand it to the level of the bulkhead. That way all 3 wales will be the same height. Does this make any sense? Am I putting too much thought into this? Thoughts??
Looking at the above image I wish I wouldn't have installed the interior wall (bulwark) per the kit and video instructions. One can see though the bulwark as there are spaces between the boards. The inside of the hull planking will be visible through this spacing. Now I will have to try to remember to airbrush the inside of these planking pieces before installing them on the hull. Had I not already put the bulkheads in place I would have been able to airbrush the interior of the hull planks aftger they were installed.
Lovely work.
Thank you Grant.
I cut 2 strips from basswood 5.6x1.5mm to fill the groove where the wale #14 goes. This will bring the first wale up to the level of the next two wales. I wetted the wood, bent it and then applied heat to form the curve at the bow. I had cut a small scrap to match the curve of the bow.
The first piece of basswood is glued in place. it stands slightly above the surface of the bulkheads. I had cut the basswood strip 1.5mm deep as some of the grooves are deeper than others and I wanted make sure there was wood above the edge of the bulkhead on every bulkhead..
Will sand the basswood level with each bulkhead, then glue the first of two strips of the wale on top of the basswood, ensuring the wale matches the curve of the groove.
The three wales are each made up by gluing a 2mm thick walnut piece on top of another 2mm thick walnut piece. This makes a 4mm thick wale, which would be tough to bend on its own. The regular hull planks are 2mm thick.
I cut 2 strips from basswood 5.6x1.5mm to fill the groove where the wale #14 goes. This will bring the first wale up to the level of the next two wales. I wetted the wood, bent it and then applied heat to form the curve at the bow. I had cut a small scrap to match the curve of the bow.
The first piece of basswood is glued in place. it stands slightly above the surface of the bulkheads. I had cut the basswood strip 1.5mm deep as some of the grooves are deeper than others and I wanted make sure there was wood above the edge of the bulkhead on every bulkhead..
Will sand the basswood level with each bulkhead, then glue the first of two strips of the wale on top of the basswood, ensuring the wale matches the curve of the groove.
The three wales are each made up by gluing a 2mm thick walnut piece on top of another 2mm thick walnut piece. This makes a 4mm thick wale, which would be tough to bend on its own. The regular hull planks are 2mm thick.