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HMS Enterprize 1774 Scale Scale 1/160 Midships Cross Section

GrantTyler said:
Good evening Gunther. Wow you did a fantastic save on those port. She looks fabulous with those spacers removed. As my brother says “shot dot”. Cheers Grant
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Hey Grant,
thank you very much for your kind words, and it's great to see you here! :D Thumbsup Unfortunately, it was hard work to improve it retrospectively. It took time. I hope I'll be more careful now. But the construction is quite a challenge. Nevertheless, it's really good fun...
 
Hey shipmates,

So, now the keel still needs to be approved by my mini engineer and then we can continue. I still have a lot to do and am already looking forward to working on the deck. What I've already noticed in the instructions is that the decks are only glued in place. Unfortunately, there is no retaining point. I do have a template that I can use from above and that can reflect the shape of the deck (I hope), but I don't have any stability for the deck when the template is removed. My concern is that if I press too hard, I could loosen the decks again, as only the glue is holding them in place... Well, we'll see and hope for the best!Thumbsup

P.S: Please excuse my poor English and I hope you understand what I mean. If not, just ask... ;) Thumbsup
I hope you enjoy the recordings...

Best regards,

Günther

Hey



Here I have used the stabilisers for the hold planks. These are used to position and insert the hold planks.

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And here is my engineer conducting the inspection. He is very strict, as he is working on behalf of Mr McRoudy... Phew, what a pain in the neck... ROTF

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1764145088205.png

This image gives an idea of the approximate size, height and power of HMS Enterprize ...

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Enclosed is the installation of the crossbars for the hold ... It looks like cargo space ...

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Gunther,
Look ahead in the instructions. There are hanging knees under the decks. These will provide added support. Also, If the deck is filed to fit tight, it won't move. You can also tack it with a few discreet touches of CA glue around the centre where it will not be so noticable!

P.S. Love the foreman pics.
 
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RichardG said:
Gunther,
Look ahead in the instructions. There are hanging knees under the decks. These will provide added support. Also, If the deck is filed to fit tight, it won't move. You can also tack it with a few discreet touches of CA glue around the centre where it will not be so noticable!

P.S. Love the foreman pics.
Click to expand...
Hey Richard,

Thanks for the tip, and nice of you to drop by. Yes, you're right. The knees are there for the upper deck and would also protect it. But not so much for the lower deck. So, as you say, I'll use a bit more glue. I'll do that... :D Thumbsup
 
dockattner said:
You are getting a lot of good tips from forum friends, Gunther!
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Hey Paul,

Great to see you here, and yes, you're absolutely right. There are some really great friends here and lots of help in the forum. It's just a feel-good place to be. That's good for you and it's really fun. Thanks to everyone who supports me here... :D Thumbsup

By the way, I saw your construction report for the new project and I was already familiar with it. I have to say, Paul, it's amazing and incredibly huge, that stern! Great construction. But who am I telling that to...:DFirst Place Metal
 
GIG1810 said:
it should be the mast base for the main mast.
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The reason I asked is that the well was 6 feet 6 inches athwartships and the step needed to be able to slide on the keelson inside the well to adjust the rake. Hard to tell from the photo but the step looks to be longer than 78". (12.4mm at 1:160) Considering the stantions inside the well, the step would be closer to 6 feet athwartships.

From the contract:

To have a well 6 ft fore & 6ft, & 6ft thwartships, or as the draught shall direct, birthed up with English Plank of 2 ins thick of a proper height above the Ballast & from thence with weather boards, wrought looverways. To have Doors, &c. as usual

The main Step to be sided 1 ft 11 ins and 15 ins deep on the Keelson and of a length to slide easy by the Stantions of the Well.

The sketch of the top view of the main mast step below may be more clear.
Enterprise main mast step dimensions.JPG
 
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Hello Alan,

Hmmm, your question is certainly justified. I must admit that I can no longer measure this, as I have already glued both decks, the lower deck and the upper deck (pictures to follow). Unless you can tell me how and where to measure? It would be best if you could show me where to measure using the photo.
 
Dear shipmates,

I hope you had a lovely weekend with your loved ones. Let's continue. I had to think about how to glue and adjust the planks for the inner area of the hold. I decided to take baking paper into account, as I love it so much. I took several pieces of wood (FM), as they were supposed to simulate the curvature of the planks, and two rubber bands. Then I formed a surface, placed the baking paper on top and secured it with two rubber bands. Then I moved on to parts D1 and D2. These are the planks for the lower rear hold area. Glue them together. I adjusted both plank parts and checked if and where they didn't fit.

Then I took capillary superglue, which is very, very thin, and glued the two parts together. The advantage of capillary glue is that it is easy to apply and spreads very well. Unfortunately, you have to be careful with the dosage, as you can quickly end up with more glue on the parts than you would like. Another advantage is that it dries slowly. This allowed me to adjust the two parts and attach them to the Fm parts with the rubber bands. The baking paper ensured that I could easily remove the planks after drying. This was very important to me because the planks are so incredibly thin and, as I said, can break easily! :D


1764575062366.png

In this picture, you can see how straight the planks are. I have placed them upright so that you can see that they are really straight and do not yet have any curvature.
1764575219202.png1764575260078.png

And this is what the planks look like at the auxiliary points (FM). I hope that once the planks are dry, I will have managed to get the curvature right.

1764575387477.png

And surprise, surprise, I was delighted. My plan worked. I managed to get the curve right!:D
1764575487653.png1764575515777.png

And this is what it looks like after the initial sanding and adjustments, when the planks are inserted.

This was a little update, and I hope you like it!

1764575877419.png1764575897513.png

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GIG1810 said:
Dear shipmates,

I hope you had a lovely weekend with your loved ones. Let's continue. I had to think about how to glue and adjust the planks for the inner area of the hold. I decided to take baking paper into account, as I love it so much. I took several pieces of wood (FM), as they were supposed to simulate the curvature of the planks, and two rubber bands. Then I formed a surface, placed the baking paper on top and secured it with two rubber bands. Then I moved on to parts D1 and D2. These are the planks for the lower rear hold area. Glue them together. I adjusted both plank parts and checked if and where they didn't fit.

Then I took capillary superglue, which is very, very thin, and glued the two parts together. The advantage of capillary glue is that it is easy to apply and spreads very well. Unfortunately, you have to be careful with the dosage, as you can quickly end up with more glue on the parts than you would like. Another advantage is that it dries slowly. This allowed me to adjust the two parts and attach them to the Fm parts with the rubber bands. The baking paper ensured that I could easily remove the planks after drying. This was very important to me because the planks are so incredibly thin and, as I said, can break easily! :D


View attachment 560777

In this picture, you can see how straight the planks are. I have placed them upright so that you can see that they are really straight and do not yet have any curvature.
View attachment 560778View attachment 560779

And this is what the planks look like at the auxiliary points (FM). I hope that once the planks are dry, I will have managed to get the curvature right.

View attachment 560780

And surprise, surprise, I was delighted. My plan worked. I managed to get the curve right!:D
View attachment 560781View attachment 560782

And this is what it looks like after the initial sanding and adjustments, when the planks are inserted.

This was a little update, and I hope you like it!

View attachment 560783View attachment 560784

View attachment 560785View attachment 560786
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A very nice procedure to get the curve in those fragile ‘sandwich’ parts, Günther. Thanks for showing the ‘inbetween’ steps.
Regards, Peter
 
GIG1810 said:
It would be best if you could show me where to measure using the photo.
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As you have most everything in place I would leave it alone. Did you put in the well and shot locker? The dimension below is at 1:160 scale. I cannot tell from the photo what the dimension is, but it looks quite long.


Enterprise main mast step 1.png
Can you explain what the below are? There were no beams between the forward platform and aft platform when she was a fighting ship so I cannot figure out what these are for. There were beams for an additional platform installed when she was converted to a receiving hulk. Thanks

Drawing is as a fighting ship.
Enterprise mid ship profile.JPG

Midships platform as receiving hulk below. Note that the mast step, well, and shot locker were removed when converted.
INBOAR~2.PNG
Cheers

Allan
 
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AllanKP69 said:
As you have most everything in place I would leave it alone. Did you put in the well and shot locker? The dimension below is at 1:160 scale. I cannot tell from the photo what the dimension is, but it looks quite long.


View attachment 560825
Can you explain what the below are? There were no beams between the forward platform and aft platform when she was a fighting ship so I cannot figure out what these are for. There were beams for an additional platform installed when she was converted to a receiving hulk. Thanks

Drawing is as a fighting ship.
View attachment 560830

Midships platform as receiving hulk below. Note that the mast step, well, and shot locker were removed when converted.
View attachment 560843
Cheers

Allan
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Hey Allan, :D

Nice to see you here. Regarding your questions: Yes, you're right, the mast foot is definitely larger than 11.5 mm. I think it's at least 12–13 mm long. Unfortunately, I can't measure it exactly anymore. The question came too late!

Regarding your second question, I can only say that the beams are supposed to reflect the lower beams of the hold. These seven beams are also noted on the plan of the HMS Enterprize. I decided against building the ammunition box because I can't really see it when I set up the model. It was just a thought of mine. But I rejected it. I think Unicorn used both plans here. One as a warship and one as a prison ship. But at least they built it according to plan... We all know that it is certainly not entirely historically accurate, but that was not the intention of this kit. I think a model in this 1/160 scale sets new standards because it is really very detailed and excellently crafted. But I will write a conclusion on this when I have finished the kit.
 
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Peter Voogt said:
A very nice procedure to get the curve in those fragile ‘sandwich’ parts, Günther. Thanks for showing the ‘inbetween’ steps.
Regards, Peter
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Hey Peter, :D

Nice of you to drop by. Thank you very much for liking my construction method. I will continue to use it for the decks. I think the intermediate steps are important so that other builders who might want to buy this kit later on can find a little help here.
 
dockattner said:
Nicely accomplished on the little deck, Gunther. It's very satisfying when a plan comes together!
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Hey Paul,:D

Nice of you to drop by. You're right, it's a great feeling, especially since you run the risk of it not working out! Let's continue to hope for the best, that my ideas will bear fruit... Because sometimes they go terribly wrong!:eek:
 
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