Help with warping hull second strips

[MichaelZ]

Could anyone suggest a good technique to prevent second planking strips (.6mm thickness) from warping laterally after applying Titebond II wood glue? I've tried slightly extra and slightly less glue but inevitably as I apply the strips to the hull the edges curl and refuse to stay flush to the hull. Given the curves of the hull, I haven't been able to consistently use clamps but am still hoping there's a workaround. Thanks a million for any tips and thoughts!

 

[Jwallkc]

Try contact cement instead of a water based glue

 

[Bryian]

I use planking screws to hold everything in place. Micromark sells them.

 

[DAWarden-(Jaager)]

You can use the Titebond II as a contact cement. Apply a total coverage, but just wet layer of the PVA to both meeting surfaces. Let the PVA polymerize - i.e. wait 24 hrs. Place the veneer and iron it. The heat activates the PVA to bond.
Be careful with the heat.

An excellent bender is the now extinct aeropiccola bender

On Amazon is a - from the convoluted description: Chinese substitute
"Wood Board Bending Pliers Boat Models Making Tool Wooden Strips Bender Part for 936 Series Soldering Irons"
Same school as AYBABTU ?

You are on your own for what a 936 series soldering iron is or where to get one.
Something in-line like a dimmer switch for to control the temp is probably prudent.

Now for the unpleasant part: the veneer that you have been provided.
The economical way to produce veneer is to rotary cut it. Turn the log against a blade and peal off one continuous sheet.
Like a roll of paper towels. The veneer is cupped. It is always going to "want" to be cupped. That is its equilibrium state.
If your planking was plane cut - tablesaw/bandsaw - it is likely to "want" to lay flat forever.
My bet is the species of wood for your show layer is a Walnut color African species that is brittle and open pore. It was probably chosen because it is a popular color ( in no way the color of any species of wood used to plank an actual ship ) and does not cost much.

 

[AllanKP69]

as I apply the strips to the hull the edges curl and refuse to stay flush to the hull.

This sounds like you are trying to edge bend which will cause lifting. Are the planks lifting like in the photo below? Planks cannot be applied without lifting if they are not pre-shaped across the breadth. Assuming the wood supplied are strips, not sheets, once the plank's breadth has been shaped/tapered, they can be bent around a jig. Some of us like to soak the planks first then shape them. Once bent to the shape you need, hot air or hot iron keep the bend. Alternatively you can spile each strake, but most kits do not give sheets of wood that you would need. In either case the edge will also need to be beveled slightly for a tight fit to the adjacent plank. There are photos and videos posted here at SoS that will help you get rid of the lift IF that is the problem you are referring to. Hope this helps.
Allan


Gap if the edges are not beveled

 

[MichaelZ]

Thank you, everyone, for the tips and the shared experience!

Allan, the photos shows EXACTLY the lifting that I’m coming up with. I’ll work the solutions you suggest and try the bender Jaager describes.

Thanks again!!

 

[AllanKP69]

The bender is great for the broad bend but it is the edge bending that creates problems more often than not.


The photo is old, back when I used a soldering iron to heat the wood. Any decent hot air gun works better and can be set for a temperature that will not scorch the wood. I do not recommend using her hair dryer unless you do it when she is out of the house, but it does work in a pinch.


More information from lining off to the planking can be seen in a four part video. Part three shows his bending station, but the entire four segments are extremely helpful.

 

[Novascotian]

A possible method you might try. Spile your plank then slightly bevel both edges (top to be fitted under previous plank and bottom beveled to receive the next plank under it),fit it in, glue and clamp.

 

[shipahoy]

I had the same problem when using regular pva glue. it was driving me nuts. I switched to a product called "weld bond" which has a much higher tack and this solved the problem. I also used some painters tape to help hold them in place for the few minutes it takes to set. Problem solved.

 

[AllanKP69]

spile your plank

This is usually the best way to go, but most kits provided strips instead of sheets. To spile planks sheet stock is needed. A Primer on Planking explains it clearly and is the traditional method used.
Allan

 

[AllanKP69]

I also used some painters tape to help hold them in place for the few minutes it takes to set.

Whatever works for anyone one of us is the way to go. I am one of those that happens to hate forcing a piece of wood into a shape on the model. My bad to be sure. If the plank is spiled or pre-edge bent I find regular PVA (carpenter's glue) and finger pressure for a minute is sufficient to hold it properly. Then there is always CA, but the fumes are killer for many so needs to be used sparingly, if at all.
Allan