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New member, first build

  • Thread starter Thread starter SwabE
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Joined
Feb 15, 2026
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I’m building the Occre Buccaneer! I started in February, just added the bowsprit and masts. It’s my first wooden ship model and I am making more than my share of mistakes. ;-)

I’m looking at the rat lines and rigging with a bit of dread, my eyesight is not awesome. I wear multifocal contacts and the compromise was between driving and close work.

My question for others would be did you ream out the wooden blocks? I tried to shove some threads through and had zero success, so I took my twist drill and made the holes bigger. Lot of work and I broke a few but now I can get a thread through.
 
I’m building the Occre Buccaneer! I started in February, just added the bowsprit and masts. It’s my first wooden ship model and I am making more than my share of mistakes. ;-)

I’m looking at the rat lines and rigging with a bit of dread, my eyesight is not awesome. I wear multifocal contacts and the compromise was between driving and close work.

My question for others would be did you ream out the wooden blocks? I tried to shove some threads through and had zero success, so I took my twist drill and made the holes bigger. Lot of work and I broke a few but now I can get a thread through.
Welcome aboard from Connecticut. There are many ways to help thread the lines. One it to use needle threaders that are used to help thread needles. any place that sells needles and threads will have them. Another method is to place a drop of CA (super glue) on the end of the thread to make it stiff. You can then use a sharp blade to cut the end on a diagonal to make it "pointy". That should make the thread easier to pass through. There are many many pieces of advice here. One place to start is


The best piece of advice it to start a build log so others can see how you are doing and offer advice. Friendly people here!

Rob
 
Welcome and let us see your build and progress.

Sometimes a small needle can be used to open the holes.

Use CA or clear nail polish to turn end of thread into hard shaft that helps get rope in the block.

With either substance just dip about an inch of end of line in liquid, and then pull thru fingers while spinning to keep if from sticking, do several times till dry, then cut end with sharp blade to fine point.
 
I did buy some needle threaders, but couldn't force them through the blocks either. I can now that I've reamed them out. I thought of using a needle but thought that was more work. Not sure I was right about that
 
I have purchased some fine micro drills online, designed for use in micro mills, but they have nice size shaft and collars that allow for hand turning with blocks, and they come in very small sizes just for our blocks.

Try a search for PCB Micro drills.
 
I have purchased some fine micro drills online, designed for use in micro mills, but they have nice size shaft and collars that allow for hand turning with blocks, and they come in very small sizes just for our blocks.

Try a search for PCB Micro drills.
Yes, as I said I was reaming out all the small blocks, I was using a twist drill. I did break a couple, but think (hope) I have extras.
 
My question for others would be did you ream out the wooden blocks? I tried to shove some threads through and had zero success, so I took my twist drill and made the holes bigger. Lot of work and I broke a few but now I can get a thread through.
The proper tool for enlarging an existing hole is a tapered cutting broach.
TEMU has a set of 10 for about $1 US each broache cutting.jpg

Looking at them -they probably could stand to have a rubber handle - either that rubber stuff that is dipped into to form a coating that hardens or take one to a local hardware and find a size of Tygon tubing with a push fit bore.

A reamer has an aggressive taper better used on a hole in a plate.

While at TEMU take a look at fly tying tools - interesting threading tools and clamps.
 
The line tip can be stiffened enough to be a stick to push thru a hole if:
It is wet with PVA and you wait a few minutes - not even fully polymerized.
or
Dipped in full strength shellac and wait even less time.

neither have a poisonous vapour or are looking for the slightest chance to harden in a small dispenser bottle becoming an expensive mini brick.
 
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One thing you will find here is that there are many ways to do the same task, and many opinions on best way.

The fine sailors here are always willing to provide help when you need it, or just asking questions in general.
 
Below is a set of six broaches on TEMU with handles on for $17.12 USD if you really want "store bougten" handles. They may be of higher quality than the "10 for $10.00 USD" set mentioned above, but for woodworking modeling purposes, I'd be inclined to go for the cheaper set of ten and just wrap the ends with string or cord and soak the wrapped cords with shellac. That will give you a good hard textured handle. Alternately, you can get one or more "needle file handles." TEMU has these for three for $8.20 USD. They have a collet holder that fits the 1/8" broach and needle file end and are interchangeable. I use needle file holders regularly. They're handy to have in your tool chest. You'll use different sized broaches and needle files a lot on one or another job, so having more than one file with a handle at a time is very convenient.

You will need a set of needle files anyway, so if you can find an Xacto needle file set that comes with one of their handles, you may want to go that way, although that set of six files and one handle will set you back about $20.00 USD and they're likely no better (or exactly the same) as the ten broaches and three handles from TEMU. TEMU also has an infinite selection of reasonably priced small file sets. Files are a relatively "consumable" tool. They get dull and gunked up and need replacing every so often. (Some metal like solder and lead will clog them up right quick. Rub chalk on the file teeth before use to minimize clogging the file teeth. The chalk prevents the filings from sticking between the file's teeth.)

TEMU also has a nice mini-reamer for wood for $5.47 USD. (Pictured below.) It's graduated from 0 to 13mm (about a 1/2".) I just got one and it's a nice tool with a machined aircraft aluminum handle and protective screw cap. It's made for what you want to do, although the angle of its cut may be to steep for use on really small stuff that a broach would do better. (If the cut is too steep, ream half on one side of the piece and half on the other to divide the depth of cut in half.) Definitely worth having for modeling, though at the price.

Lastly, while stiffening the end of a thread with shellac works to stiffen the thread end (as does using CA adhesive, clear nail polish, or Duco cement,) much of the time a bead threader will do the job without the mess or the wait for the adhesive to dry. Yeah, you guessed it... TEMU sells those cheaper than anywhere else, too. The TEMU catalog search for "bead threaders" is below. (Search TEMU for "needle threaders, too. There's more there.) There are lots of different kinds. They are dirt cheap. I can't imagine rigging small blocks without them. The TEMU categories for sewing, fingernail decoration, hair styling, fly tying, jewelry making, and so on will reveal many handy ship modeling tools for "pocket change."

Jaager's suggestion to check out TEMU's fly tying tools was spot on. A lot of guys starting out ask, "What tools do I need?" and then get off into expensive electrically powered tools as "gotta haves," or they get suckered by the hobby catalogs that charge four times or more as much for some tool they claim is for "ship modeling" when that tool, or a better one, usually of higher quality, will be sold for another application for the tool for far, far less. The tools discussed here will serve the novice modeler far better than hundreds of dollars' worth of power tools, or even hand tools sold by ship modeling retailers and local hobby shops (if any still exist.) Be creative, build better models, and save big bucks

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[Sorry, I just noticed that the TEMU links below send you to a "sign up" page if you don't already registered with a TEMU account and that the reamer is linked to TEMU Canada. Don't know why. Just go to the TEMU opening site and search for the item title that's in the link below, e.g. "1pc-reamer-manual-drilling-tool-hole-punch-woodworking--model-making-hole-opener-manual" and it should come up. If not, you'll have to register, but it costs nothing and the site is "safe." TEMU is kind of weird. They list items by the Chinese manufacturer and there are often several manufacturers making the identical item and selling it at a different price. You'll see that they will often list the same item several times at different prices, so always do a TEMU search for whatever you want to buy to make sure you're getting the lowest price.)


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TEMU catalog pages link: https://www.temu.com/search_result.html?search_key=bead threader tools&search_method=user&refer_page_el_sn=200010&srch_enter_source=top_search_entrance_10032&_x_sessn_id=wsmy7h6qvf&refer_page_name=goods&refer_page_id=10032_1776307466560_1y68z9uf0x&refer_page_sn=10032&is_back=1

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Below is a set of six broaches on TEMU with handles on for $17.12 USD if you really want "store bougten" handles. They may be of higher quality than the "10 for $10.00 USD" set mentioned above, ...

I don't think I've ever seen the word "quality" in the same paragraph as "Temu" unless it was prefaced with "questionable". Did you get paid for this endorsement? ROTF
 
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