Stay Tuned...
#853/999
Planning to start this journey - Feb/Mar '26
This will be my first build.
#853/999
Planning to start this journey - Feb/Mar '26
This will be my first build.
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Hold a seat for me. I will follow along on your journey.
*Takes a seat in the front row* 
I want to wish you a Happy Birthday, Mike. Enjoy the day!
Ps: Hopefully you will start with your build soon …..
Regards, Peter
Ps: Hopefully you will start with your build soon …..
Regards, Peter
Here’s to another brick in the wall, may this one be a special one. Happy birthday! 
Thanks Jim, Peter & Rob. That is a good birthday wish.
The Admiral & I moved to Dallas, TX from Florida in December. House is dialed & affairs in order. I have to complete my aquarium build before starting the ship build. I am on week 3 of 6 in getting the tank cycled & ready for fish. I hope to start on the ship in about a month.
I already have most of the tools & getting my desk ready. I just need to buy supplies & I think these magnifying glasses from Amazon. Anyone have these? Is there a better option? I unboxed the kit & those parts are SMALL & my eyesight is bad. Any tips on using these goofy looking things? I had a magnifying desk lamp for my fly tying setup & had a hard time with depth perception, so it was just used as a spot light. These seem to be a far better option for this build.
The Admiral & I moved to Dallas, TX from Florida in December. House is dialed & affairs in order. I have to complete my aquarium build before starting the ship build. I am on week 3 of 6 in getting the tank cycled & ready for fish. I hope to start on the ship in about a month.
I already have most of the tools & getting my desk ready. I just need to buy supplies & I think these magnifying glasses from Amazon. Anyone have these? Is there a better option? I unboxed the kit & those parts are SMALL & my eyesight is bad. Any tips on using these goofy looking things? I had a magnifying desk lamp for my fly tying setup & had a hard time with depth perception, so it was just used as a spot light. These seem to be a far better option for this build.
I have a set that is somewhat similar. Since they have separate lens for each eye, you will keep your depth perception with those.
Another important thing to have is lots of bright light.
Another important thing to have is lots of bright light.
I'll be following your build.
What kind of fish are you putting in the tank? It's looking good.
I use an Optivisor, which is similar. The depth of view is limited but you quickly get used to that. I find them indispensable for doing close up work. I think the optivisor with the headband may be more comfortable. As Corsair said the most important thing is plenty of light! There are many different knockoffs available.
Rob
Rob
Hey Glenn. Thanks for the compliment. Being 200 gal & 8' long, it is a very difficult, demanding startup to cycle. I'm trying to replicate the Amazon Basin. It will have 12 Discus, a school of 150 rummynose tetras & cleanup crew.
Thanks Jeff & Rob. Your choice does seem to have better lighting. I also wear eye glasses with bifocals. Will the Optivisor comfortably fit over them? I will probably have to wear the magnifiers during the entire build. Hearing aides coming soon as well. 
I'm 82 and have had optical implants so normal vision is fine, but close-up is the pits. I haven't used those, but have tried similar (probably cheaper) ones. And every size of magnifier, light, light-magnifier, etc.
I have tried, and continue to use, high-power close-up or reading glasses. They're light, not cumbersome at all, and let me work in any light environment. Normal reading glasses are usually made with up to 2.5-3 diopter. I have pairs in 3.0, 4.5 and 6.0 diopter. The only negative over some of the more expensive surgeon's glasses is that you have to work close to your work. I believe what you've shown above would be no different. The normal work distance from glasses to work will be roughly 40" (~ 1 meter) divided by the diopter. So 3.0 requires a work distance of 13", 4.5 requires 9" and 6.0 about 6-7". I got mine from eBay for less than $10 each. 6 diopter is about the limit unless you get into custom glasses, and I think anything over 6.0 would be tedious to use. I use my 3.0 almost all the time on my model work, and switch to stronger for really small work. You might check out a pair before getting anything too elaborate.
RELEASE THE HOUNDS !
Finally able to start. Had a meeting with the Admiral & we agree on the overall vision of this build. This ship will NOT be historically accurate, nor will it be museum quality. My goal is to have fun, finish this kit & not make too many noticeable mistakes so I don't have to change the name to the HMS Buttocks.
The vast amount of "Bling" on this model does not appeal to either of us. Any brass parts that are needed will be blackened. The Admiral made a good observation regarding this model... the bottom half of the ship w/the exposed hull looks rugged, spooky & in dry dock for repairs after a battle, but the top half is finished pimp style. I agree & I am going to tone it down a bit. I'm sure that will be a cringe factor for some of you. I'm blessed that she is interested in this project & to be honest, she does, kinda, have a say since she bought it for me.
I have watched Youtube videos from a dude named Wolfgang Zinn who is building this kit. Extremely informative sessions, except no dialog, only music. There is also a USS Constitution kit almost identical to this Victory sold by Agora Models. Cool website & very unique models. If you go there, look at the Terminator T-800 kit. Arnold would be proud to build that one. Anyway, I also found John Aliprantis & John Builds Iconic have build logs on the Constitution there as well. Both of those guys are amazing too. Seems that kit is made by Occre. I have also read build logs here from @neilm , @Julian & @Crypton. Amazing work guys! I will be pleased if my ship looks half as good as theirs.
Even though I can't compare to other kits, this looks to be of high quality & good looking lumber. I had one oak slab containing parts for 2 ribs that was slightly warped. Once the bottom 5x5 beams were installed & the included jigs set in place, the affected ribs sort of corrected themselves.
I've had good results in the past with Danish Oil, so that is my choice for this build. Per the instructions, oiling is not shown until all the ribs, bottom beams & cross beams (I call them "giblets") are glued in. I deviated & carefully oiled the ribs before they were glued to the base.
So far so good. Instructions state to work in sections. 1-6 first then 7-18. I agree, as that space is tight, especially when putting the giblets in. I think someone else called them "nuggets"?. I bet there are a few hundred of them. So far, I think I'm lined up, as each giblet is 15mm & they look fairly straight. I copied a spacing jig design from John Builds. Helps tremendously.
So far, I am pleased & having a blast. This is, without a doubt, a major challenge. Here are a few pics of my progress. If anyone sees any glaring mistakes, please point them out before I get too deep into this hull.
Finally able to start. Had a meeting with the Admiral & we agree on the overall vision of this build. This ship will NOT be historically accurate, nor will it be museum quality. My goal is to have fun, finish this kit & not make too many noticeable mistakes so I don't have to change the name to the HMS Buttocks.
The vast amount of "Bling" on this model does not appeal to either of us. Any brass parts that are needed will be blackened. The Admiral made a good observation regarding this model... the bottom half of the ship w/the exposed hull looks rugged, spooky & in dry dock for repairs after a battle, but the top half is finished pimp style. I agree & I am going to tone it down a bit. I'm sure that will be a cringe factor for some of you. I'm blessed that she is interested in this project & to be honest, she does, kinda, have a say since she bought it for me.
I have watched Youtube videos from a dude named Wolfgang Zinn who is building this kit. Extremely informative sessions, except no dialog, only music. There is also a USS Constitution kit almost identical to this Victory sold by Agora Models. Cool website & very unique models. If you go there, look at the Terminator T-800 kit. Arnold would be proud to build that one. Anyway, I also found John Aliprantis & John Builds Iconic have build logs on the Constitution there as well. Both of those guys are amazing too. Seems that kit is made by Occre. I have also read build logs here from @neilm , @Julian & @Crypton. Amazing work guys! I will be pleased if my ship looks half as good as theirs.
Even though I can't compare to other kits, this looks to be of high quality & good looking lumber. I had one oak slab containing parts for 2 ribs that was slightly warped. Once the bottom 5x5 beams were installed & the included jigs set in place, the affected ribs sort of corrected themselves.
I've had good results in the past with Danish Oil, so that is my choice for this build. Per the instructions, oiling is not shown until all the ribs, bottom beams & cross beams (I call them "giblets") are glued in. I deviated & carefully oiled the ribs before they were glued to the base.
So far so good. Instructions state to work in sections. 1-6 first then 7-18. I agree, as that space is tight, especially when putting the giblets in. I think someone else called them "nuggets"?. I bet there are a few hundred of them. So far, I think I'm lined up, as each giblet is 15mm & they look fairly straight. I copied a spacing jig design from John Builds. Helps tremendously.
So far, I am pleased & having a blast. This is, without a doubt, a major challenge. Here are a few pics of my progress. If anyone sees any glaring mistakes, please point them out before I get too deep into this hull.
Good start!
Shine on, you crazy diamond
You and your admiral have already done what most people do not and you have a clear idea of what you expect from your model ! Bravo !
Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
We will be watching to see the beauty and the bling!
LOL!! Bravo for being up front on this. I will try to follow your build to see how this kit compares with the many other brands of Victory models. Have fun!!!!
Allan