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Oseberg 1/32nd from Pavel Nikitin - With hopefully also many added details.

Patrick,

Welcome here as well - yes ,we go way back together --:) I also saw you log here glad that you joined - always superlative work...

Still working on the same areas - here are some updated notes. As mentioned before I will cut out the deck boards from scratch.

As always thanks so much for dropping by.

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Hi all

Going through some mental trepidations figuring out how, and with what, to build the deck boards. Still wasn't sure - but so far after several attempts - I think that I’ve reached an acceptable solution.

From AI: Vikings primarily used pine for ship deck boards, often employing removable rectangular planks between the ship's cross-beams. While the main hull (strakes) was typically constructed from high-quality oak, pine was favored for decking, steering oars, and cross-bracing, with spruce also used in some regions. Noted ;)


Stern first ----

So, pine should be the wood to use. For me way too white looking, even after staining - will be too homogeneous looking lacking in any “board” looking details.

Next were a darker woods - poss. cherry or mahogany. Images from previous post - just above

Tried them did not look right -


The oak veneer that I have - is my best-looking option -- I will go with those.

As always thanks so much for your likes and big thanks as well to members that are kind enough to follow this build log -


Images of ongoing efforts;

Cheers,

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Great progress John.
Hi all

Going through some mental trepidations figuring out how, and with what, to build the deck boards. Still wasn't sure - but so far after several attempts - I think that I’ve reached an acceptable solution.

From AI: Vikings primarily used pine for ship deck boards, often employing removable rectangular planks between the ship's cross-beams. While the main hull (strakes) was typically constructed from high-quality oak, pine was favored for decking, steering oars, and cross-bracing, with spruce also used in some regions. Noted ;)


Stern first ----

So, pine should be the wood to use. For me way too white looking, even after staining - will be too homogeneous looking lacking in any “board” looking details.

Next were a darker woods - poss. cherry or mahogany. Images from previous post - just above

Tried them did not look right -

The oak veneer that I have - is my best-looking option -- I will go with those.

As always thanks so much for your likes and big thanks as well to members that are kind enough to follow this build log -


Images of ongoing efforts;

Cheers,

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Good evening John. Maybe some “caulking” will give each veneer plank more definition rather than leaving an actual gap or if you have wood make some oak boards the same size as Pavel’s although this may not give the aged look you want. Aesthetically I also prefer Pavel’s boards but I would include proper nails? Cheers Grant
 
Great progress John.

Good evening John. Maybe some “caulking” will give each veneer plank more definition rather than leaving an actual gap or if you have wood make some oak boards the same size as Pavel’s although this may not give the aged look you want. Aesthetically I also prefer Pavel’s boards but I would include proper nails? Cheers Grant
Grant - thanks as always :)
 
I agree with you on stating that you still like Pavels boards. Can they be aged out with a wash?
Daniel

Yes you are indeed right. But I made big mistakes as I was attaching hull planks. Yikes, I then communicated with Pavel - He SO personally helped.!!!
His fix is in the postal service - could be crossing the Atlantic as I text....

So, I could not, in many case use his kit planks - that I so like. But with big deference to his great kit - I would like to "better" replicate the look of what could have been actual looking deck boards coming from axed trees. THEN, I saw Willbor's so perfect looking deck boards. And also wanted to create that 2000 yr. old look...Image from his log just bellow.

Then images of what I'm hoping to reflect for deck boards...TBD thanks for your post.

One afterthought -- certainly the builders tried to have boards as much as possible not allow water to leak into inner hull...but boards were certainly odd shaped as those found in its 1904 resurrection and as illustrated in current images....hence my efforts haha,,,,

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Daniel

Yes you are indeed right. But I made big mistakes as I was attaching hull planks. Yikes, I then communicated with Pavel - He SO personally helped.!!!
His fix is in the postal service - could be crossing the Atlantic as I text....

So, I could not, in many case use his kit planks - that I so like. But with big deference to his great kit - I would like to "better" replicate the look of what could have been actual looking deck boards coming from axed trees. THEN, I saw Willbor's so perfect looking deck boards. And also wanted to create that 2000 yr. old look...Image from his log just bellow.

Then images of what I'm hoping to reflect for deck boards...TBD thanks for your post.

One afterthought -- certainly the builders tried to have boards as much as possible not allow water to leak into inner hull...but boards were certainly odd shaped as those found in its 1904 resurrection and as illustrated in current images....hence my efforts haha,,,,

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Yes, Wilbors decking is truly awesome. When I finally get to my Oseberg I'll probably stick to my philosophy of building models as if they were brand new.
 
Great progress John.

Good evening John. Maybe some “caulking” will give each veneer plank more definition rather than leaving an actual gap or if you have wood make some oak boards the same size as Pavel’s although this may not give the aged look you want. Aesthetically I also prefer Pavel’s boards but I would include proper nails? Cheers Grant
Grant,

Yes, with both of your ideas. In retrospect I should have purchased 1/16" (1.5mm) oak sheets and made individual "off sized" looking boards. That was then.

Caulking - hmmm - I'm just still so ignorant of knowing how Vikings sealed their deck boards for those astonishing N. Atlantic trips...Caulking for inner lower hull planks - that I understand, and on my list of to do "looks" after all airbrushing is finished :cool:
Thanks for your suggestions...

Regards,
 
Deck board updates.

Some images include my thinking - sort of.
1st one - welcome to my mess - yikes....

Will continue as already started - need to think about how to replicate the look of open deck boards - venner much too thin.

Thanks so much for your likes, comments.

Regards,



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Grant,

Yes, with both of your ideas. In retrospect I should have purchased 1/16" (1.5mm) oak sheets and made individual "off sized" looking boards. That was then.

Caulking - hmmm - I'm just still so ignorant of knowing how Vikings sealed their deck boards for those astonishing N. Atlantic trips...Caulking for inner lower hull planks - that I understand, and on my list of to do "looks" after all airbrushing is finished :cool:
Thanks for your suggestions...

Regards,
Good morning John. I am pretty clueless as to Viking ships however I doubt these would be caulked - I think. My suggestion of “caulking “ is more to define each veneer plank - maybe rub some HB pencil on the veneer edges. This defines the veneer more and makes each plank appear separate from the other. It may also give the perception of depth on the veneer. You may not have to leave gaps between each plank. With your attention to detail this is going to be another John classic. Cheers Grant
 
Grant,

Did some searching and per AI regarding deck boards; open wooden ships invariably took on water from rain or ocean spray. Crews used wooden bailers or simple manual pumps to periodically clear the bilge, a practice famously studied by maritime archaeologists at the Viking Ship Museum in Roskilde
So, per images from museum - there were some issues with leaking - given that those boards were splitted, and hand axed 2000 years ago - pit saws were first noted around 1300 AD

===========

Forward solution just ordered some 1/16” (1.5mm) oak sheets. Will cut, per sizes, of deck boards - then glue the veneer on top for create a matching look - after later sanding the edges - should look much like just “moved over” other boards - or so I hope - TBD

Treenails still a mental work in progerss..........

PS: I know what’s going to happen after the larger oak strips arrive ---- OH No!! why did I not wait and just make all the boards individually with the arriving bits….instead of all of this veneer nonsense....

Cheers,

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Grant,
YES OF COURSE -
you were so right Thumbs-Up- thanks for the suggestion - I may even even add a bit more plank edge defining - but, indeed, already looks so much better given that I wanted to mimic the look of off shaped boards. Your highlighting suggestion was spot on...

Paul,


Nice to share heads with you - much more peaceful these day and I couldn't fathom why - mystery solved.


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Daniel,

I agree as well - at first I also did not like the oak veneer grain patterns - seemed too out of scale - but the black stain sort of buried the
stark visual differences. AND along with Grant's great suggestion --- I now like the results as well. So glad that it also works for you.
Thanks for your super comment Okay

PS: Grant now thinks that I'm a neighbor - under my avatar ROTF:cool: - how that happened is today's mystery....

Regards,
 
Good morning Guys. I just notice this when replying to John.
I don't understand it either, somehow your VPN thinks your signal needs bouncing around the world?? or Grant has hijacked your log ROTF
I have my AI bot working to take over SOS- John is my first victim.ROTF
the western states have been sold to South Africa...
It is a secret plot with SA and China- we have no money so it must be ChinaROTF.
Cheers Grant
 
Well regarding Avatar flag in S Africe - it was a political real estate - error... i advised my military forces of the issues. Now my Avatar flag is back - ready to celebrate its upcoming 250 year old history - bit of a thin history nonetheless haha

PS: received the ordered 1/16th oak planks - To be continued.

Regards,


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