Wow, absolutly fascinating what you are doing.
Jan
Jan
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Oseberg 1/32nd from Pavel Nikitin - With hopefully also many added details.
Grant,Good morning John. You got those just right- those little details make a difference. I always love looking at pics of the real thing as us modellers always strive for that perfect finish but the real ships never are. Gives me an excuse for my inconsistency’s. Cheers Grant
Thanks - Hmmm little details well you’ve been and are there (smile) indeed working on kits that include available images of the originals certainly adds to the “pressure” of trying to “get them right” - and helpful as well.
Daniel,
Thanks as well - We so borrow ideas from other build logs - one of the great extras from this hobby. So glad that this will be useful.
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Very nice job on the edge profile for the strakes. I made my scraper from a used utility knife blade, cutting the profile with a fine Dremel cutoff wheel.
You can see in Dr. Bischoff's dissertation or her book that almost every piece of wood was decorated with some type of edge profile - the rudder, the oars, the deck boards, etc. Many different profiles were used as well. Have fun with it!
You can see in Dr. Bischoff's dissertation or her book that almost every piece of wood was decorated with some type of edge profile - the rudder, the oars, the deck boards, etc. Many different profiles were used as well. Have fun with it!
Russ,Very nice job on the edge profile for the strakes. I made my scraper from a used utility knife blade, cutting the profile with a fine Dremel cutoff wheel.
You can see in Dr. Bischoff's dissertation or her book that almost every piece of wood was decorated with some type of edge profile - the rudder, the oars, the deck boards, etc. Many different profiles were used as well. Have fun with it!
View attachment 586403
Thanks, yes I did notice that several other pieces are also edge profiled. I will continue with some as well. Done these - so far. Need to add securing nails as well
Will do the oars - that I will need to scratch make.
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Am......
Thanks -- great. will be very useful.
When are you going to start your Oseberg, and will you also have a build log?
Regards,
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Hi all,
Thought that I would offer a suggestion for builders who might be interested in this kit.
NOTE this is the 1/32nd not 1/25th might be somewhat different.
When flipped over a larger gap on only one side due to Laser cut. This gap makes secure adhesion of the two parts a bit “iffier” especially when needing to curve the now “single” plank during installation.
One of my early joints snapped and separated during mounting to hull frames
My solution - on the wider gap side, glued both together then added a thin Pearwood strip on the larger gapped side.. Let completely dry then sanded to a very thin layer.
In inner plank area’s locations where I won’t have views with deck boards in place, I added small reinforcement bits. Lots of pressure in these locations as much bending and some twisting is needed when securing the other end of the planks.
Thanks for all of your likes !!!!
Regards,
Thought that I would offer a suggestion for builders who might be interested in this kit.
NOTE this is the 1/32nd not 1/25th might be somewhat different.
When flipped over a larger gap on only one side due to Laser cut. This gap makes secure adhesion of the two parts a bit “iffier” especially when needing to curve the now “single” plank during installation.
One of my early joints snapped and separated during mounting to hull frames
My solution - on the wider gap side, glued both together then added a thin Pearwood strip on the larger gapped side.. Let completely dry then sanded to a very thin layer.
In inner plank area’s locations where I won’t have views with deck boards in place, I added small reinforcement bits. Lots of pressure in these locations as much bending and some twisting is needed when securing the other end of the planks.
Thanks for all of your likes !!!!
Regards,
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Very clever, John.
Clean work indeed, nice
Russ,Very nice job on the edge profile for the strakes. I made my scraper from a used utility knife blade, cutting the profile with a fine Dremel cutoff wheel.
You can see in Dr. Bischoff's dissertation or her book that almost every piece of wood was decorated with some type of edge profile - the rudder, the oars, the deck boards, etc. Many different profiles were used as well. Have fun with it!
View attachment 586403
About your scraper - Yes I did see that in your log. Very clever idea. I wasn't quite sure that I would get it right... Having those AL metal scapers available I
customized that two groove one. Worked out real well. And your A-F list is now on my list as well.
But doubtful that I will attempt all of the different types of edge grooves. The rudder, oars and their forks are on my list.
PS: Pavel's plank securing bits in his kits are clever - BUT they just don't work very well IMO for the 1/32nd. The required bending for proper positioning, and allowing time for the glue to completely dry before starting next row make, for me, spring clamps an absolute necessity.
Looks like you're having fun, John!
Paul,
Yes, I am having fun - for now -
Also playing around with some cording. After airbrushing the inner hull area I would like to, per historical information, also add some sealant looking details.
From Google University;
Viking shipbuilders caulked ship planks by stuffing tar-soaked animal hair, wool, or moss into the seams between overlapping clinker planks. This organic material was packed tightly into gaps, acting as a flexible sealant that allowed the hull to shift with waves while remaining watertight once expanded in water. Also sheep’s wool was saturated in pine tar to create a sticky, waterproof sealant.
Now for “it might not be fun” part… Just got these from Amazon for scratch making the oars. There are 50 sticks - only need 35 - TBD.
PS: Olha Batchvarov has a very good youtube video on how she made her Oseberg oars from Pavel's 1/25th kit...
John,
Placed in my thread a small "how to" how i made my oars, perhaps this will help you making your own oars..
I can imagine they used moss; it's widely available in these areas. I still see it in my house from a much later period, of course, but they were still using it in the 1850s. I can see it on the walls of my attic.
Placed in my thread a small "how to" how i made my oars, perhaps this will help you making your own oars..
I can imagine they used moss; it's widely available in these areas. I still see it in my house from a much later period, of course, but they were still using it in the 1850s. I can see it on the walls of my attic.
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Willbor,
Thanks - yes I did see your posting. My fear is possibly snapping the very thinned now rounded sticks when using the Proxxon DB 250
PS: I will send you my mailing address for DHL. Please send me some of your extra moss, but be sure that the original plant dates back
2000 years.
Your log is really special!!PS 2: I do plan on visiting Oslo after the reopening of the museum. June seems the best with sunsets around 23:00 with around 22º daytime - nice!
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Did a bit more today....
Cheers,