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La Renommee 1744 1:48. (CAF) by Salty

Paul, yes, each plank is different, each has to be steamed and there’s not much space for clamping. Thankfully, the pieces are very accurately cut as you can see from the stern section below which has planks going in every direction. I’m surprised it’s progressing as well as it is given all that, but it is.

Christian, further to the issue of homemade clamps, I think knurled thumbscrews would improve things. Mr Google says they’re available in sized smaller than M3, so should suit you purposes.

I have finished the aft section of the planking:

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If you look closely, you can see one plank is a bit larger than the others at the base. I started planking from each end of the section, but the two ends didn’t quite meet as planned. So I decided to make a new plank, rather than just use the last kit plank with a triangular stealer. I don’t think it looks too bad and it won’t be seen in the finished model.

I’m not sure why this happened. All I can think is that it might be because the longitudinal plank defining the lower edge of the diagonal section is a millimetre or so low.

Kind regards

Salty
 
I am waiting on a missing sheet of diagonal planking to be sent by Tom at CAF.

In the meantime, I have been working on the mast step for the main mast (top) and fore mast (below):

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I went for 0.8 mm brass as bolts in the end. Despite being relatively big, I don’t think the brass overwhelms the wood. I did think about trunnels, but thought that metal fasteners may have been preferred in the original ship because of the need for strength.

I made the eyebolts and rings in the chocks from 0.5 mm wire. I am waiting on some Brass Black as I have decided to try it on the fittings, but probably not on bolts/nails. On Le Coureur, I left the brass untreated and I think it looked quite good, so I’ll be interested to see the results.

Kind regards

Salty
 
While I am waiting on the missing sheet, I thought I would also have a go at trunnels:

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They are birch and I had to do a little hunting to find them as most toothpicks where I live are in fact made of bamboo. I don’t think bamboo is quite as good because the fibres are quite visible (or so I think). At first, I was a little disappointed, but I went back over them with a medium sandpaper followed by a scraper and that seemed to improve matters. The cherry should darken over time and that should bring out the contrast even more.

Kind regards

Salty
 
Paul, the trunnels have 0.8mm holes, the same as Le Coureur. It’s quite difficult to say why I chose that measurement. As you say, it’s more about the look. One millimetre is too big and half a millimetre is too small…

Here is the bow section of the diagonal planking finished:

IMG_4235.jpeg

It was a little easier than the stern, but a lot of care was still needed and I even I took up and relaid the three planks next to the stem because I just thought they weren’t sitting quite right.

And here is what it looks like with both the fore and aft sections completed:

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Kind regards

Salty
 
Last edited:
Salty said:
Paul, the trunnels have 0.8mm holes, the same as Le Coureur. It’s quite difficult to say why I chose that measurement. As you say, it’s more about the look. One millimetre is too big and half a millimetre is too small…

Here is the bow section of the diagonal planking finished:



View attachment 602528

It was a little easier than the stern, but a lot of care was still needed and I even I took up and relaid the three planks next to the stem because I just thought they weren’t sitting quite right.

And here is what it looks like with both the fore and aft sections completed:

View attachment 602529

View attachment 602530

Kind regards

Salty
Click to expand...
Agreed. What looks right is the best guide. FYI I used 0.6 mm for my 1:48 Kingfisher and Saint Philippe.
 
Paul, who could argue with the look of Kingfisher and Saint Philippe?

Chris, as you rightly point out the type of fastening is another important consideration to take into account when deciding what looks right. I find myself staring at my small ruler and thinking how big would the head of the trunnel/nail/rivet actually be.

I have started to fill in the section in the bilge with longitudinal planking. All the planks are pre-cut and the position even marked out on the full-sized plans.

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Kind regards

Salty
 
Here is the port side finished:

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It’ll look better after I sand and scrape, but I’m happy with how it’s turned out, particularly where the planks meet the keelson for and aft.

There isn’t much fat in the end of the planks in each strake, so I haven’t been able to get all the joints over frames, but I’m not too worried as none of this will be visible. I’m not going to trunnel this section, mostly because the planks fore and aft are too narrow.

Unlike the diagonal planking, I’m going to do both sides of the longitudinal planking as the plan is to cut out most of the frames on the starboard side, but the extra planking in the bilge should keep everything aligned.

Kind regards

Salty
 
Brian, Grant and Paul, thanks for your kind words and encouragement. I’ll try to keep up the standards.

Brad, I only use an iPhone for my photos, but it’s surprisingly easy. I try to take pictures which show a bit of “warts and all” detail, plus over impressions.

I have just completed planking the starboard side:

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It went relatively smoothly and I only had to trim the lengths to match those on the port side. As with the frames, I finished everything with a scraper. Not perfect, but given all that could go wrong with all the irregular surfaces, I’ll take it.

So far I’ve completed the first 18 steps in the instruction manual for the internal structure, but sadly there still more than 100 to go…

Kind regards

Salty
 
Salty said:
So far I’ve completed the first 18 steps in the instruction manual for the internal structure, but sadly there still more than 100 to go…

Kind regards

Salty
Click to expand...
Remember, one step at a time and you can walk around the world.

118 steps for a wonderful display model seems like a challenge you'll easily conquer in due course!!
 
Salty said:
Brian, Grant and Paul, thanks for your kind words and encouragement. I’ll try to keep up the standards.

Brad, I only use an iPhone for my photos, but it’s surprisingly easy. I try to take pictures which show a bit of “warts and all” detail, plus over impressions.

I have just completed planking the starboard side:

View attachment 604051

View attachment 604053



View attachment 604052

It went relatively smoothly and I only had to trim the lengths to match those on the port side. As with the frames, I finished everything with a scraper. Not perfect, but given all that could go wrong with all the irregular surfaces, I’ll take it.

So far I’ve completed the first 18 steps in the instruction manual for the internal structure, but sadly there still more than 100 to go…

Kind regards

Salty
Click to expand...
I just ordered section 5, should be here in a few weeks!
 
Paul, I am very much looking forward to you restarting your La Renommee. It’s a super kit and I’m a little surprised there aren’t more examples of her on SoS.

Brad, yes, slowly does it. The instruction manual is like a box of chocolates - sometimes one picture can take a week, while other times it can take just a day.

I have been working on the mast steps and internal braces:

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I’ve gone for Brass Black on the eye bolts and rings and quite like the effect!

I’ve also stained the wood with Danish oil. At first I didn’t like it because I thought the finish was too shiny. I think this was because the finish wasn’t smooth enough and I used too much oil. After sanding back with 600 grit sandpaper and reapplying the oil more sparingly, I think it looks better. I might leave the ceiling planking unpainted at this stage as I probably need to keep the inside as light as possible. A penny for your thoughts?

Finally, CAF kits constantly surprise me with their attention to detail. The mortises in the mast steps were cut at a slight angle so that the connecting pieces slope inward at the same angle as the chocks. The wonders of CAD and CNC never cease.

Kind regards

Salty
 
Looking superb! I use WATCO Danish Oil (natural, lt walnut, and dark walnut) almost exclusively and love it. It sure brings out the grain in the quality wood in this kit!! Be aware that it's difficult to glue over for the first few days. After a week, glue holds nearly as well as raw wood.

Sounds like the kit is awesome, judging by the angles on those mast step chocks. The brass black looks awesome!
 
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