La Renommee 1744 1:48. (CAF) by Salty

[Ronald61]

love the profile pic

Thanks Found it and loved it. Sideways; I respect the guy totally as king of England. But this was to good to not use Plus I think we need humor in our lives and hobbies.

 

[Salty]

Andy, I think you did a wonderful job on HMS Blandford (and your other models), and if you’re inclined to build La Renommee you won’t be disappointed with the quality of the kit.

Ronald, what a lovely expression “Chapeau”! And I agree with Grant about the profile pic.

Ben, you’re not wrong about it being complicated, but if you can show the detail in all its glory, then why not go ahead and try to do it.

The next step is the partitions for the powder magazine and powder bag stores. There’s some with photo etched windows:




I’ve not used Brass Black much before, but think it was easy to use and leaves a very nice finish. I don’t know why I didn’t use it on Le Coureur…

Others have shutters:



The shutters slide. I had to cut tiny bevels on the frames and panels to do this. It’s not mentioned in the instructions, but there were similar shutters on my Le Coureur which were supposed to work, although I think I made them with thicker pieces of timber back then. After all that however, I might fix the panels in place with glue, because if they ever come loose I’ve got no chance of putting them back.

They’re all 1 mm thick strips and feel quite fragile. There are plywood templates in the kit and I’ll use those for an initial fit as they’re more robust.

Kind regards

Salty

 

[Paul132]

Andy, I think you did a wonderful job on HMS Blandford (and your other models), and if you’re inclined to build La Renommee you won’t be disappointed with the quality of the kit.

Ronald, what a lovely expression “Chapeau”! And I agree with Grant about the profile pic.

Ben, you’re not wrong about it being complicated, but if you can show the detail in all its glory, then why not go ahead and try to do it.

The next step is the partitions for the powder magazine and powder bag stores. There’s some with photo etched windows:


View attachment 609315

I’ve not used Brass Black much before, but think it was easy to use and leaves a very nice finish. I don’t know why I didn’t use it on Le Coureur…

Others have shutters:

View attachment 609316

The shutters slide. I had to cut tiny bevels on the frames and panels to do this. It’s not mentioned in the instructions, but there were similar shutters on my Le Coureur which were supposed to work, although I think I made them with thicker pieces of timber back then. After all that however, I might fix the panels in place with glue, because if they ever come loose I’ve got no chance of putting them back.

They’re all 1 mm thick strips and feel quite fragile. There are plywood templates in the kit and I’ll use those for an initial fit as they’re more robust.

Kind regards

Salty

Well Done

 

[Ronald61]

Ronald, what a lovely expression “Chapeau”! And I agree with Grant about the profile pic.

Thanks, you're very welcome

 

[Salty]

Here are the partitions in place:





I wasn’t sure how all this was going to work, but once I decided to install the forward most partition first and work backwards, it all went in without too much trouble. I am pretty happy with the result.

The photo etched lamp is a nice touch as well.

I’ve ordered one of those machines they use to perform keyhole heart surgery from Aliexpress so you’ll be able to look at the details and play with the hatches when La Renommee is finished…

Kind regards

Salty

 

[GrantTyler]

Your Magnum Opus (my new favourite word). Wonderful Salty. Cheers Grant

 

[dockattner]

I’ve ordered one of those machines they use to perform keyhole heart surgery from Aliexpress

Just like all the finest hospitals do... .

 

[Paul132]

Here are the partitions in place:

View attachment 609692

View attachment 609691

I wasn’t sure how all this was going to work, but once I decided to install the forward most partition first and work backwards, it all went in without too much trouble. I am pretty happy with the result.

The photo etched lamp is a nice touch as well.

I’ve ordered one of those machines they use to perform keyhole heart surgery from Aliexpress so you’ll be able to look at the details and play with the hatches when La Renommee is finished…

Kind regards

Salty

Beautiful work

 

[Magic Mike]

Salty, the partitions are nicely done and the lamp is perfect! Magic Mike

 

[Salty]

Grant, Mike and Paul, thanks for continuing to stop by to keep an eye on my efforts.

Paul, it was a pretty weak joke, but at least some one got a chuckle out of it.

Today I started the deck for the purser’s mate floor which sat above the powder magazine and powdered bag stores. I think this is where some the ship’s stores were kept.

There are more beams to be laid forward of the powder magazine:



Here is a closeup of the three hatches. The ones in the kit were a bit small and wouldn’t span the beams, so I made these up using the dimensions in the Boudroit’s monograph. For the eyebolts and rings I’ve used 0.5 mm wire which I don’t think overwhelms the look.



And lastly, this the beginning of the planking itself:



Kind regards

Salty

 

[Cathber]

Hello, congratulations on your build. To make your model more visible even with the hull open, have you considered integrating a lighting system into your model for the darkest areas?

 

[Salty]

Cathber, I have thought about lighting and did look at some options. In the end I decided not put them inside the ship to as I am a little worried about what happens if the lights don’t function at some point in the future because they would be difficult to replace. It might be an idea to put lights outside the ship along the keel shining upwards through the lower decks so you can see the details better.

Here is the continuation of the planking for the purser’s mate floor.





I’m going to leave the starboard side partially unplanked at this stage.

The area around the hatches wasn’t easy. The plans say the hatches are 19 x 17 mm. That meant making up two 0.5 mm fillers to make 20 mm which is the width of 4 planks and also the distance between two walls which run down either side of the hatches.

The edges of the deck aren’t bevelled because it’s just beyond me. It took all of my ability to get a tight fit where they met the ceiling planking and the braces. Having said that, I think it looks reasonably neat and is symmetrical, so I’ll take it.

Kind regards

Salty

 

[Albert Mary]

Here are the partitions in place:

View attachment 609692

View attachment 609691

I wasn’t sure how all this was going to work, but once I decided to install the forward most partition first and work backwards, it all went in without too much trouble. I am pretty happy with the result.

The photo etched lamp is a nice touch as well.

I’ve ordered one of those machines they use to perform keyhole heart surgery from Aliexpress so you’ll be able to look at the details and play with the hatches when La Renommee is finished…

Kind regards

Salty

Perfect achivement on these tiny bulkheads and lights, congrats!

 

[dockattner]

Very nice planking, Salty! Well done!

 

[Salty]

Albert, thanks. I’m good with tweezers as my fingers are pretty useless.

Paul, with planking, as with most things, it’s all in the preparation. I’m glad I spent the time getting the beams right otherwise I would have no hope of a good result.

After a bit of deliberation, I decided on a pattern of two off, two on for the remainder of the decking:







I plan to cut the frames away from the top of this deck to just beneath the U shaped brackets which hold the deck beams above.

Kind regards

Salty

 

[Salty]

After the short planking interlude, I’m back making partitions for the purser’s mate floor.



Each panel is made of a series of strips, each of which has to have the charring removed and then be glued together. The kit has plywood templates which I put a line of double sided tape across to help keep everything together when gluing up.

This is how they are supposed to go together:



As you can see, there are quite a few hatches and I’ll try to make them so they slide like the ones beneath in the powder magazine.

Kind regards

Salty

 

[dockattner]

This is nice work, Tom. I'm sort of surprised that the kit has you using laser-cut strips... couldn't these just be made from bulk strips of dimensional wood? I mention it because I love this ship but hate the idea of managing char for three years... Your thoughts?

 

[Salty]

Paul, I agree that there’s absolutely no reason why the partitions couldn’t be built from plain strips. The kit has full size plans for all the partitions as well as plywood templates, so you have all the necessary information. The kit also seems to enough 1.2 x 5 mm strips to build the partitions. Some of the laser cut parts are different widths - e.g. 4 mm boards - but I don’t think that is an issue and the 5mm strips would work just as well.

For what it’s worth I don’t think removing the charring is a big deal. I use a sanding pen with 240 grit paper so I only take off the bare minimum and only takes a short while. For across the grain, I tend to use a knife to slice it off. It can be fiddly on small and thin parts, but generally there’s a method to deal with it (including just making the part yourself). In a sense, “char” is a bit of a misnomer. It’s not powdery and certainly doesn’t rub off on your fingers.

I’ve been doing some nailing with birch toothpicks in preparation for installing the partitions:



Some of the nails will be covered by the partitions, but I thought it was just easier to go ahead and do all the beams.

Here is the start of the partitions:

 

[dockattner]

Paul, I agree that there’s absolutely no reason why the partitions couldn’t be built from plain strips. The kit has full size plans for all the partitions as well as plywood templates, so you have all the necessary information. The kit also seems to enough 1.2 x 5 mm strips to build the partitions. Some of the laser cut parts are different widths - e.g. 4 mm boards - but I don’t think that is an issue and the 5mm strips would work just as well.

For what it’s worth I don’t think removing the charring is a big deal. I use a sanding pen with 240 grit paper so I only take off the bare minimum and only takes a short while. For across the grain, I tend to use a knife to slice it off. It can be fiddly on small and thin parts, but generally there’s a method to deal with it (including just making the part yourself). In a sense, “char” is a bit of a misnomer. It’s not powdery and certainly doesn’t rub off on your fingers.

I’ve been doing some nailing with birch toothpicks in preparation for installing the partitions:

View attachment 612405

Some of the nails will be covered by the partitions, but I thought it was just easier to go ahead and do all the beams.

Here is the start of the partitions:

View attachment 612406

View attachment 612407

Thanks for the response and for sharing your thoughts, Tom. Much appreciated.

 

[Salty]

Paul, no problems. I’m only too happy to SoS members know how I go about things, but equally open to suggestions. In many respects, we work in isolation, so it’s easy to end up overlooking good ideas.

I have finished all the partitions with hatches:



I managed to have it so the hatches slide. It’s fiddly but gets easier with practice.

It looks a bit strange as there are no doors, but this is the arrangement in Boudroit’s monograph. I guess it made sense as things were less likely to come out in rough seas. The hatch is large enough for a person to climb through and hand things out.

More partitions in temporarily place as well:



I found it a little difficult with all the beams which pass through the partitions. There’s some temporary horizontal bracing held in place with masking tape to keep the panels flat while I fitted them and I’ll leave them on until after I glue everything up.

Kind regards

Salty