USS Constitution - Model Shipways

[Der Alte Rentner]

where i got confused is that I used the plans to measure the diameter of the lower masts and I didn't see that they had the taper diameters already on the plans. But even at that it would have been nice if they had shown more taper diameters as you go up the lower masts.

Oh for Pete's sake, reading this prompted me to look at the beginning of my year 2 build log. I didn't have a lathe back then, leading me to suspect I didn't taper the lower masts either. This seems to be confirmed by my not finding ANY reference to tapering the lower masts in my notes. Neither does Hunt's Rigging the Constitution chapter 1, appear to mention tapering (unless I too can't read) .

For what it's worth, I don't think it much matters. As long as you have the correct dimensions for the squared off sections at the tops of the lower masts, you (we?) should be golden. I, for one, do not intend to remake mine!

You sir, are not alone!

 

[Jack Sparrow]

Oh for Pete's sake, reading this prompted me to look at the beginning of my year 2 build log. I didn't have a lathe back then, leading me to suspect I didn't taper the lower masts either. This seems to be confirmed by my not finding ANY reference to tapering the lower masts in my notes. Neither does Hunt's Rigging the Constitution chapter 1, appear to mention tapering (unless I too can't read) .

For what it's worth, I don't think it much matters. As long as you have the correct dimensions for the squared off sections at the tops of the lower masts, you (we?) should be golden. I, for one, do not intend to remake mine!

You sir, are not alone

Yes I just looked at the Hunt practicum and as you said, there is no reference to tapering the lower masts. I think I will though, but then again that complicates things.

 

[g8rfan99]

Reading all this, I need to look ahead at the BJ instructions to see if they mention this at all. I've got to think at my scale, it would hardly be noticeable

 

[mtbediz1]

Oh for Pete's sake, reading this prompted me to look at the beginning of my year 2 build log. I didn't have a lathe back then, leading me to suspect I didn't taper the lower masts either. This seems to be confirmed by my not finding ANY reference to tapering the lower masts in my notes. Neither does Hunt's Rigging the Constitution chapter 1, appear to mention tapering (unless I too can't read) .

For what it's worth, I don't think it much matters. As long as you have the correct dimensions for the squared off sections at the tops of the lower masts, you (we?) should be golden. I, for one, do not intend to remake mine!

You sir, are not alone!

Since I don’t have any other set of instructions to follow, I’m examining the MS plans in great detail. If I had Hunt’s practicum, I suppose I could have skipped this step as well. But in any case, this isn’t a detail that can be noticed with the naked eye.

 

[mtbediz1]

I asked AI a question about this topic, purely for informational purposes, and here's the answer. Maybe you'll find it interesting. I apologize if I'm filling the build log with unnecessary information, Peter.

The real USS Constitution’s lower masts are tapered — they are not uniform in diameter from bottom to top. Like most large wooden sailing ships of the late 18th and early 19th centuries, the lower masts were built with a noticeable taper to reduce weight aloft and improve strength and flexibility.

Mast Construction on USS Constitution​

• Lower Masts (fore, main, mizzen):
  • Made of large pine timbers, built up in sections.
  • Tapered from base to head — widest at the partners (where they pass through the deck) and narrowing toward the hounds and top.
  • This tapering was essential to reduce weight aloft and to balance strength with flexibility.
• Topmasts and Topgallant Masts:
  • Also tapered, but lighter and shorter than the lower masts.
  • Designed to be struck (taken down) in heavy weather.
• Restoration Evidence:
  • During the 2015–2017 dry dock restoration, the Constitution was “down-rigged” to her three lower masts. Photographs and restoration notes confirm the tapering of these lower masts.
  • Historical rigging manuals and shipyard practices of the era (Charlestown Navy Yard) also describe tapering as standard for frigates.

Why Tapering Matters​

• Structural Integrity: A mast with a constant diameter would be unnecessarily heavy and prone to excessive strain.
• Flexibility: Tapering allows the mast to bend slightly under wind pressure, reducing the risk of snapping.
• Weight Distribution: Keeps the ship’s center of gravity lower, improving stability.
• Historical Accuracy in Modeling: For scale models, reproducing the taper is important for authenticity. On Constitution, the taper is subtle but visible in photographs of the lower masts.

​

 

[Der Alte Rentner]

Since my Constitution will never be under full sail and exposed to the stresses of the wind aloft, I think I can live without the little bit of taper between the deck and the cheeks, this time.

Next time? For sure!

 

[Der Alte Rentner]

I had to cut shop time short today because both of my hands cramped up. Evidently, something about holding the Dolphin Striker in one hand and a sanding strip in the other caused both hands to just sieze. That's never happened before. So, here's hoping it's a one-off.



To be continued.

As an aside, while researching alternative construction methods for this Dolphin Striker, I consulted Ken's build log, and was stunned to read that he carved his by hand. OMG!

and, Jon, can you loan me a dime so I can add it to future photos to emphasize scale?

 

[Jack Sparrow]

I hope you get better soon

 

[g8rfan99]

Great job on the striker Peter. The contouring at the junction looks nice. I feel for you on the hand thing. Mine get pretty angry with me alot these days

 

[Der Alte Rentner]

Turning my attention to the bowsprit itself today..

First I figured out how to setup my Proxxon mill for the squaring off of the end of the bowsprit. I repurposed a previously used jig. I plan to secure the bowsprit in one of the long slots to square off the front end and to mill the tenon for the cap.



Square it up to the mill table


Demonstrating how I plan to keep the tenons oriented correctly..



This is how the setup looks at a glance.



However, I had to back track because I forgot that first I had to taper the forward end of the bowsprit. I needed the mill to get me close to a point where I could sand the taper round.

I used a compass to draw a 7 mm circle at the sprit's end. Following the Hunt practicum's directions, I made it larger than the 1/4" diameter that it will ultimately be squared off to. I wish I had checked first, but the math suggests there's not enough material left to get to perfectly square 1/4" ends. There will be some rounded edges. It may not be much of an issue, since the "bees" at the top will sit on a bevel anyway.



The wing attached to the inboard end of the bowsprit is an aid in aligning it for 90 degree rotations for milling.



Of course, I forgot to take pictures of the lobbing off of the excess wood on the three sides that needed reducing. You'll notice that the very end of the sprit is sitting on a ledge. The height of that ledge was chosen so that I had a straight cut with the mill from the beginning of the taper to the end of the bowsprit. That mark at the far end of the vice (sadly, barely visible) is where the taper begins. The circle at the end of the bowsprit is where the taper ends. After milling, I had three sides at 90 degrees to one another converging at the circle. Then I resorted to sandpaper to round off the edges.







The vertical lines on the plan look like they're inboard of the tip of the bowsprit. That's just an optical illusion.

 

[DocTom]

That's some impressive woodworking once again! How do you like the Proxxon mill? I have their drill press, but probably should have bought the mill instead.

 

[mtbediz1]

That's some impressive woodworking once again! How do you like the Proxxon mill? I have their drill press, but probably should have bought the mill instead.

Proxxon Mill's capabilities are limitless!

 

[GGibson]

I have their drill press, but probably should have bought the mill instead.

I am a Proxxon fan. I have them both.

 

[Thrasher]

As always your Conny is looking great. Lots of time and effort going into a great model. Looking forward to our get together on Friday.