thinking to buy Scheppach basa3 220v need advice..

[ccfly]

i did till now couple no name sail boats (raw boat ,cutter l,some modern like with engine ,and pinto ,santa maria still in works missing plans for it ,ones i got are copy of copy and last 3 plans are like washed up nothing is visible so i quit and give all to friend )from some poland kits (was cheap to buy them but q is super low compared to these u guys build)
anyhow ,,i decide to build one from plans only (rn uss constitution1798 from model shipways ,hms bellona or victory if i find good plans that are looking good )
so question i would need to make parts so need wood ( wood is not problem we got a load of woodworkshops around) to be cut .
i read and read ,and came to some conclusion , to buy band saw Record BS300e
i will need somewhat larger cut space ,and ppl say it is ok 12'' band saw ..
now questions , do i need large saw like this ?
idea is to buy linden tree plank and recut it in slices for ship parts

ugh i made error on subject and manny spelling too..
i read for these 2 bandsaws and decide to get record 300e ,and write wrong one in subject ..

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[DAWarden-(Jaager)]

I am from the serious scratch build wing. My view is "if you are going to do it, do it right." (Within reason - "reason" being an area open to debate). I have intuition for metric volume and weight (have to in Pharmacy) but not so much with length and distance - sorry but you will have to convert from Imperial.

Over here - a 12" bandsaw is not a common size. Benchtop 9" or 10" then floor model 14" 16" 18" (18" and 16" are more for professionals). It needs to be two wheel and have a powerful motor - going low on HP will come back to bite you on the arse.

3 - 4 TPI hook for the blade that resaws A 1/2" blade should be wide enough. The tracking is more about the quality of the saw. A wider blade 3/4" - 1" does not give better tracking - just more friction.
The mid point between the bottom of the gullet and the tip of the tooth should be at the crown of the upper wheel - just have to live with the chew on the liner surface.

Steel blades - too much set for resaw - really chews up the face of a slice.
expensive steel with minimum set and thin kerf like WoodSlicer or Infinity over here (I think the coils come from a French company so the EU should have its own version.) - cutting a few Linden planks - should be worth a look - cutting hundreds of linear feet of dense wood - this blade dulls too quickly
A bimetal blade is the sweet spot for me - it is about twice the cost of a WoodSlicer but lasts about ten times longer.
A carbide blade lasts longest. It is 4-5 times more expensive than a bimetal - but only lasts 10-20% longer - forget about the re-sharpen bit - advertising hype as applies to a home shop saw.

You do not say how you intend to construct your hulls:
carved layers
POF
PoB (plank on mold)

Linden is fine for carved but Pine (clear- tight or no knots - no sap or gum) is probably less expensive and just as effective.
I prefer much harder wood - for you Pear or Rowen ( Eberesche or Vogelbeerbaum ) or Hornbeam or some wood whose name begins with an "E" that we can't get, Sweet Cherry, Holly, Beech, Birch, Maple (Norway, Field, Sycamore) (not Soft Maple - never Soft Maple) .
No nut tree wood (Ash, Oak, Willow, Chestnut, Elm, Walnut) unless you are going to seal and paint it or hide it.
Nothing in the Populus family anywhere, for anything pure trash!

pinto ,santa maria

Any plans for any famous ship before 1700 are not real - they are a modern version of what someone imagines it could be.
If you start with the same sparce known data: any plans that you would design would be just as valid.

Go for the original design plans - Denmark has them - France has a few - ANM - Chapman has many to explore.

Then there are the Nautical Archaeology finds in your region - Koggs and Viking - practical for you.

 

[Roger Pellett]

Like any other tool the type of power tool that you need depends on what you’re trying to do:

Cutting commercially sawn lumber into usable sizes (straight cuts). For this I would choose a table saw. A HIGH QUALITY band saw can do this too but requires careful adjustment.

Cutting curves in thick wood; thicker than about 1 cm. This is where a band saw excels.

Cutting curves in wood thinner than 1 cm. A powered scroll saw works for this.

There’s are just general guidelines. Choices will depend on what’s available where you live, space available, cost, etc.

Roger

 

[DAWarden-(Jaager)]

i decide to build one from plans only (rn uss constitution1798 from model shipways ,hms bellona or victory if i find good plans that are looking good

There are choices and actions in project selection that I just do not understand. A big one is choosing kit plans for a scratch build.

There is no kit for the 1799 version of Constitution (USS did not become official until TR was president ~1900)
Kit plans are of a chimera of 100 years of changes, every generation's "modernizations", and then the 20thC. presentations for tourists with what they expect it to look like. Also, the "ironside" that was the national moral booster from 1812-1815 had been subject to upgrade from the as designed version. The closest that you will come to a real plan is the design plan for Constitution/President/United States 1799 - as drawn by HIC and is available from The Smithsonian Institution as a 1/4" scale as seen in HASN.
Bellona is easy and free ~1/4" at WIKI Commons download.
Victory 1765 is available as a print from RMG prints
WIKI Commons has a large number of free plans for a scratch build just pick one of the plans with MB file size. The KB size is the icon size from NMM(RMG) You do not needed to redo a ship that hundreds if not thousands have already done

If you are doing plank on mold - just trace the stations for the molds. You can make your own compromises with the design - there is not need to get stuck following a commercially restrained designer's compromises. You can pick your own scale and get a size that fits your environment.
You really should look closely at sliced and carved layers instead of PoB. No planking if you paint the hull. If your scale is smaller than 1/4" painting the bottom with copper particle paint gets you scale thickness. No planking there either.