Gregg,
I found this at a place called Binny's, a rather large liquor chain in our area. The store is still open, so I'm swinging by there on the way home from the shipyard. Cheers to one and all.
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USS Constitution - Model Shipways
- Thread starter Der Alte Rentner
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Gregg,
I found this at a place called Binny's, a rather large liquor chain in our area. The store is still open, so I'm swinging by there on the way home from the shipyard. Cheers to one and all.
How did I not see this in the model shipways plans?
When pouring over the model shipways plans for the size of the quarter blocks on the main and fore yards resulted in a big fat zero, I pulled out my copy of Marquardt's Anatomy Of The Ship. It is interesting to note that his details for the main and fore yard rigging do not coincide with those in the MS plans. The drawing in his book that most closely resembles those in the MS plans is for the Topsail yards.
I guess this is one of the times that the Hunt practicum pays off.
The day was not a complete loss. I started mass producing slings.
I guess this is one of the times that the Hunt practicum pays off.
The day was not a complete loss. I started mass producing slings.
deleted the duplicate post again??
Deleted duplicate post.
Why add quarter blocks? I don't intend to rig any sails. So, these blocked would serve no purpose, other than to be ornaments. Yes?
Adding to the frustration and confusion, doesn't this drawing from the MS plan suggest the quarter block is a double block?
And just out of curiosity, how is the reefing tackle rigged at the end of the yard where the arrow with the question mark is pointing? There is no block, and something's already going through the sheave there.
I had to go to the drawing for the fore mast to find the specifications for the quarter block on the main. Note that for the main, this block is specified as a single. Also, it's a smaller block than the one spelled out for at the end of the yard - 1/8" (3.2mm) here vs. 5/32" (4mm) at the yard end.
This is all making me crazy.
Adding to the frustration and confusion, doesn't this drawing from the MS plan suggest the quarter block is a double block?
And just out of curiosity, how is the reefing tackle rigged at the end of the yard where the arrow with the question mark is pointing? There is no block, and something's already going through the sheave there.
I had to go to the drawing for the fore mast to find the specifications for the quarter block on the main. Note that for the main, this block is specified as a single. Also, it's a smaller block than the one spelled out for at the end of the yard - 1/8" (3.2mm) here vs. 5/32" (4mm) at the yard end.
This is all making me crazy.
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I went to the USS Constitution Museum website and searched simply for "blocks". This was all I could find using that search word. For those of you going for the original layout, these are supposed to be the specs for the 1797 original.
Note: Main jeer blocks are 26" long., which would argue for 6mm blocks for the jeers.
Evidently, you need to choose your A/I assistant carefully. My first pass using one agent stated that there was no 1929 block list. Checking with Grok, I found this:
"The 1929 Block List (Plan #30359) is a U.S. Navy engineering drawing from the 1927–1931 restoration of USS Constitution (“Old Ironsides”), made available by the USS Constitution Museum as a resource for ship modelers and researchers. It appears in the museum’s “Modeler Resources” collection under the Masts, Yards, & Sails section, alongside related 1920s–1930s plans for spars, masts, sails, and fittings. These plans were primarily prepared by naval architects at the Charlestown Navy Yard under Lieutenant John A. Lord (Superintendent of Restoration, 1927–1931). The bulk of the drawings from this period document the extensive work in which roughly 85% of the ship was renewed/replaced; the full set of plans redrew the vessel accordingly."
I tried to copy the link but failed. Here are screen shots for the main mast and yard. Note: the largest blocks on the list are the "jeer falls" at 16" length. Suggesting that 5mm is a better fit than 6mm. No?
The specs for the foremast tell the same story.
One more time, THIS IS MAKING ME CRAZY!!!
But at least, I feel vindicated in my choice of block size...
Note: Main jeer blocks are 26" long., which would argue for 6mm blocks for the jeers.
Evidently, you need to choose your A/I assistant carefully. My first pass using one agent stated that there was no 1929 block list. Checking with Grok, I found this:
"The 1929 Block List (Plan #30359) is a U.S. Navy engineering drawing from the 1927–1931 restoration of USS Constitution (“Old Ironsides”), made available by the USS Constitution Museum as a resource for ship modelers and researchers. It appears in the museum’s “Modeler Resources” collection under the Masts, Yards, & Sails section, alongside related 1920s–1930s plans for spars, masts, sails, and fittings. These plans were primarily prepared by naval architects at the Charlestown Navy Yard under Lieutenant John A. Lord (Superintendent of Restoration, 1927–1931). The bulk of the drawings from this period document the extensive work in which roughly 85% of the ship was renewed/replaced; the full set of plans redrew the vessel accordingly."
I tried to copy the link but failed. Here are screen shots for the main mast and yard. Note: the largest blocks on the list are the "jeer falls" at 16" length. Suggesting that 5mm is a better fit than 6mm. No?
The specs for the foremast tell the same story.
One more time, THIS IS MAKING ME CRAZY!!!
But at least, I feel vindicated in my choice of block size...
Right there with you brother!!!
At dinner last night, I was asked how many people here are working on or have worked on the USS Constitution. I went to the link for the index at SoS that someone here showed me.
When I saw that my own build was not on it, I looked more closely and saw that this list was compiled in January of 2025. Does anyone know who compiles this list, and how often it's updated?
When I saw that my own build was not on it, I looked more closely and saw that this list was compiled in January of 2025. Does anyone know who compiles this list, and how often it's updated?
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I'll tell you. I am starting to get annoyed with my Constitution. The fittings are to scale, I know, but they are too small to effectively handle. Take the eyebolts, for instance. They are a nightmare to use. So I had to make my own. Not to scale but functional which is what I need for the rigging steps. I can't be spending 20 minutes trying to thread an eyebolt that is too small. Are you getting the same issue with the blocks? I was looking quickly at the inventory of blocks that I got and some of them are tiny. I may have to resort to putting something bigger.
Am I ever! The reason I haven't posted in a while, is that I've been struggling with the rigging of the jeer and quarter blocks. Because I opted for the Syren replacement blocks, I'm dealing with nice scale, but difficult rigging conditions. I have more difficulty doing the seizing of the slings than threading the blocks, but then again, I haven't had to rig two blocks together since I finished the spar deck carronades. Those were fairly easy in that I did the rigging off deck and only hook the tackle to the eyebolts. I'm not looking forward to the jeer trusses. But, in for a penny, in for a pound. Since I already went to the Syren scale on the spar deck, I'm committed to it going forward.
One trick I learned on the carronade tackle was to use a pin vise to drill through the holes in the blocks, to make sure there wasn't any obstruction for the line to get hung up on. Also, putting a dab of C/A glue on the tip of the line and letting it harden (after tapering by hand to form a pointy end) made threading the blocks a LOT easier. Good lighting, magnifiers (Mr MaGoo glasses), and fine pointy tweezers are essentials for success too.
If you're getting frustrated, take a break. Don't take it out on Conny! Come back to her with a cool head and steady hands.
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Taking a break is the best course of action. She's kicking my butt. I am strongly considering using my 3d printer. not sure yet. I would have to paint all the blocks black, I think. But the downside is that I like wood and I don't know if I would like the plastic parts even though they are painted black.Am I ever! The reason I haven't posted in a while, is that I've been struggling with the rigging of the jeer and quarter blocks. Because I opted for the Syren replacement blocks, I'm dealing with nice scale, but difficult rigging conditions. I have more difficulty doing the seizing of the slings than threading the blocks, but then again, I haven't had to rig two blocks together since I finished the spar deck carronades. Those were fairly easy in that I did the rigging off deck and only hook the tackle to the eyebolts. I'm not looking forward to the jeer trusses. But, in for a penny, in for a pound. Since I already went to the Syren scale on the spar deck, I'm committed to it going forward.
One trick I learned on the carronade tackle was to use a pin vise to drill through the holes in the blocks, to make sure there wasn't any obstruction for the line to get hung up on. Also, putting a dab of C/A glue on the tip of the line and letting it harden (after tapering by hand to form a pointy end) made threading the blocks a LOT easier. Good lighting, magnifiers (Mr MaGoo glasses), and fine pointy tweezers are essentials for success too.
If you're getting frustrated, take a break. Don't take it out on Conny! Come back to her with a cool head and steady hands.
I will definitely experiment to see what it looks like.
I could go the option of buying the blocks from a third party, though. That may be what I do. They would definitely be better quality than the ones I have although the ones I have are not bad, IMO. Here is an option that I found:
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Honestly, that's exactly what I have been doing with my Constitution. Taking a break! Not to muddle up your build log, Peter, with my issues, but I've gotten frustrated with some of the (what should be) basic upper hull planking not coming out right, so I've set it aside and I've been working on some "prep work" on my next build, which will be Ernest Hemingway's Pilar fishing boat. Anyways, my point is, breaks are not a bad thing. We know going into a build like the Constitution that it's going to be a long process. It's not a race. As long as you guys will still hang with me long after your own builds are done, I'm ok with these occasional intermissions.If you're getting frustrated, take a break. Don't take it out on Conny! Come back to her with a cool head and steady hands.
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Agree
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just to clarify. The tiny eyebolts that I am referring to are the ones that go on the fighting tops. even Hunt seemed to use bigger eyebolts based on the photosAm I ever! The reason I haven't posted in a while, is that I've been struggling with the rigging of the jeer and quarter blocks. Because I opted for the Syren replacement blocks, I'm dealing with nice scale, but difficult rigging conditions. I have more difficulty doing the seizing of the slings than threading the blocks, but then again, I haven't had to rig two blocks together since I finished the spar deck carronades. Those were fairly easy in that I did the rigging off deck and only hook the tackle to the eyebolts. I'm not looking forward to the jeer trusses. But, in for a penny, in for a pound. Since I already went to the Syren scale on the spar deck, I'm committed to it going forward.
One trick I learned on the carronade tackle was to use a pin vise to drill through the holes in the blocks, to make sure there wasn't any obstruction for the line to get hung up on. Also, putting a dab of C/A glue on the tip of the line and letting it harden (after tapering by hand to form a pointy end) made threading the blocks a LOT easier. Good lighting, magnifiers (Mr MaGoo glasses), and fine pointy tweezers are essentials for success too.
If you're getting frustrated, take a break. Don't take it out on Conny! Come back to her with a cool head and steady hands.
Hey guys. I have learned a trick for rigging these tiny blocks. I'm working at 1:98 scale, so everything is even smaller. The blocks for my gun table are 2mm, with holes that are .012". First, like Peter, i drill every hole with a pin vise partly to make the hole just a tiny bit bigger, but mostly to make sure it's clear with no obstruction. Instead of using CA to stiffen the line, I use UV curable resin. The benefit of the resin is that it doesn't add any thickness to the line, which I find CA does. The resin soaks into the rope and doesn't harden until you shine the light on it, so you can whipe away any excess. In addition, before putting it under the light, I twist the rope tight. This actually decreases the diameter. After holding under the light, the resin hardens and maintains that smaller diameter. Finally, I use a very sharp pair of scissors to cut the stiffened line at an angle, giving it a nice pointy tip.
It's all quick and easy to do, and I find it makes threading those tiny holes ALOT easier.
Hope this helps
It's all quick and easy to do, and I find it makes threading those tiny holes ALOT easier.
Hope this helps
If you're making your own eyebolts, I'd have a hard time believing that the eyes would be too small to get rigging through. I just checked my fighting tops, and, while there's no mention of where the eyebolts came from in my build log, they appear to have been hand made - given slight inconsistencies in sizes. If you used a needle nose pliers to make yours, you will surely be able to get rigging through them.
No one will be examining your model that closely when you're done. If someone does show up with a vernier caliper and a binder full of plans, send them packing! Size them to suit yourself.
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good point. cheers!