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HMS ENTERPRISE 1774 by RichardJJS 1:48 scale. New Kit from M.D

Your build, can go in any fashion you choose but FWIW, I think for lower deck, you want to fit knees, etc. every single beam as you move through hull......far easier and everything remains tight.
That was my experience.

Tim
yes thanks do your lower deck knees but u to the frames
 
yes thanks do your lower deck knees but u to the frames
Most of them are fairly close, on this deck not super critical.
Another reason for instillation as you go, with many knees you have to compromise….either dead tight to the frame or close match to beam top.
Without trimming too much wood you lean toward matching beam top.
Bit too high, no problem, sand it after dry, too low, visible.
and ugly.
Remember, small gaps up top will be rendered invisible when waterways are installed over them.
With those, just remember to slightly bevel outside edge to fit tight to frames.
Just keep plugging away.

P.S. here is the best image I have to get an idea. All the high edges were sanded/ leveled out ofter this was take.
Tim

IMG_0788.jpeg
 
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Your build continues to be a delight to follow. It will be covered up in the end but is there a reason you used a short mizen step? It was eleven feet long same as the crutch and acted as both the step and as a second crutch, thus my question. No matter, your build is absolutely lovely.
Allan
1765825555296.jpeg
 
Your build continues to be a delight to follow. It will be covered up in the end but is there a reason you used a short mizen step? It was eleven feet long same as the crutch and acted as both the step and as a second crutch, thus my question. No matter, your build is absolutely lovely.
Allan
View attachment 563924
Not following the contract, but the kit.
In this case, no additional crutch provided for. Noticed this on the full side profile but kit provides for three similar steps….that’s what I went with.

Tim
 
Most of them are fairly close, on this deck not super critical.
Another reason for instillation as you go, with many knees you have to compromise….either dead tight to the frame or close match to beam top.
Without trimming too much wood you lean toward matching beam top.
Bit too high, no problem, sand it after dry, too low, visible.
and ugly.
Remember, small gaps up top will be rendered invisible when waterways are installed over them.
With those, just remember to slightly bevel outside edge to fit tight to frames.
Just keep plugging away.

P.S. here is the best image I have to get an idea. All the high edges were sanded/ leveled out ofter this was take.
Tim

View attachment 563748
Yes so far just the Fore Knees at present
Yes I should have made the lower Bulkhead to size Not quite wide enough
Mine is not as good as yours but its "OK"
Its one of thse models that the second one is better than the FIRST !

Ive also noticed that youve not got the thinner layer of Inner Planking Knees
it need to be fitted on the THick STudd and the Lower Planks added between them
Which is, of course, thet way it would be built
It would be easy if we fit he knee the planking and the Beams
Will look at this as i progress

But YES seeing your incredible work has inspired me although mine will not be perfect (Which I have always tried to acheive inthe passed but I now realise that mt eye sight and genaeral health will prevent it
Its not god getting older

THANKS ALL FOR THE ENCOURAGEMENT
THanks
 
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You're way ahead of me Richard. :) I'm just marking the inside of the hull with the plywood templates. :)
She is taking shape and looks good.
These need to be exactly in the right place as the support the Beams
11 and 13 (Thick Stuff) support the Beams
If I was doing it again I would leave the Inner Planking of these beams ie 10 and 12 till later
If you cut a couple of the LOwer DEck Hanging Knees from sheets the for'ard ones do not match curve of the Outer frame
They "Seem" to fit better with just the THick Stuff there
Not sure how we would add the Lower PLank - maybe loose fit the beam - mark where it is and then add a short length of the Lower plank (10) as a filler which is probably what it is on the ship
Not sure if I am making sense
I can elaborate later if you want
BUT the notches on the Hanging Knees need to be Deeper at the top and go furthe down to allow the knee to be fitted to the frame

PLEASE try a few of the Knees against the Side frame (Last 5 become Drop Knees as we can see from Nelson and Hardy's Cabin Pictures
 
These need to be exactly in the right place as the support the Beams
11 and 13 (Thick Stuff) support the Beams
If I was doing it again I would leave the Inner Planking of these beams ie 10 and 12 till later
If you cut a couple of the LOwer DEck Hanging Knees from sheets the for'ard ones do not match curve of the Outer frame
They "Seem" to fit better with just the THick Stuff there
Not sure how we would add the Lower PLank - maybe loose fit the beam - mark where it is and then add a short length of the Lower plank (10) as a filler which is probably what it is on the ship
Not sure if I am making sense
I can elaborate later if you want
BUT the notches on the Hanging Knees need to be Deeper at the top and go furthe down to allow the knee to be fitted to the frame

PLEASE try a few of the Knees against the Side frame (Last 5 become Drop Knees as we can see from Nelson and Hardy's Cabin Pictures
Thanks for the heads up. :)
 
Started the Lower Deck Beams
Ive not fixed the Sections till i get the beam(s) in place above it to make sure its spot on
Carlins are not as good as I want but pre cut BIG MISTAKE
Not as bad a sit looks on photo

View attachment 565026

View attachment 565027
In regard to carlings, this is why, for this deck, i aligned/marked them then filed angled notches with beams installed.
For the gun deck I will most likely mill out notches given we have sheets for carling locations.
If anybody is going that route, be advised, The deck beams tend to be supplied long and need slight trimming , both ends so that need to be done for hull fit before any notches are cut to insure reasonable alignment.

Tim
 
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