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Misticque, 1/36 - Build Log by Moreplovac
- Thread starter moreplovac
- Start date
- Watchers 19
The head received a coat of primer...
.. and two coats for black colour, airbrushed..
The same treatment for rudder as well..
The catheads were next on the list.. glued them together cut small opening to hold the sheave. I will simulate shave using some extra deadeyes from other build..
Now, next is black paint on catheads...
In the mean time I started to work on gun port lids...
.. but noticed that I am missing 6 of them somewhere...
. oh, well, yet another little project is approaching..
In the meantime the hull is getting ready for final touchups and a protective layer of varnish
Happy modelling..
.. and two coats for black colour, airbrushed..
The same treatment for rudder as well..
The catheads were next on the list.. glued them together cut small opening to hold the sheave. I will simulate shave using some extra deadeyes from other build..
Now, next is black paint on catheads...
In the mean time I started to work on gun port lids...
.. but noticed that I am missing 6 of them somewhere...
. oh, well, yet another little project is approaching..In the meantime the hull is getting ready for final touchups and a protective layer of varnish
Happy modelling..
I have added two additional M3 threaded inserts which will be used as extra support to hold the model once it is completed. Now it was a good time to turn it up and drill a hole while masts are not installed .
Then I continue with little project making the gun port covers out of some scrap maple planks. Always like to reuse some left overs..
Mark the dimension using original covers...
Cut and sand to 90 degrees...
18 of them done...
Then the inner part was also added, based on correct dimensions..
Happy modelling..
. Then I continue with little project making the gun port covers out of some scrap maple planks. Always like to reuse some left overs..
Mark the dimension using original covers...
Cut and sand to 90 degrees...
18 of them done...
Then the inner part was also added, based on correct dimensions..
Happy modelling..
I ran out of yellow colour to continue with gunport lids so ordered another bottle. Waiting to arrive...
In the meantime finished cat heads..
Happy modelling..
In the meantime finished cat heads..
Happy modelling..
- Joined
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you can only do what you can do. I am waiting for cleats myself...
While waiting for paint, I am working on hinges for gun lids... I spent some time trying to figure out the logic behind hinge assembly from kit manual and after giving up, decided to do my way.
First I use some tiny pipe I have and cute 25, 6mm long pieces...
Actually I had to cut 4 more because of "interesting phenomena" when little pieces fly after being cut...
But, there is always a cure...
They will need to be cleaned a bit and blackened after... The idea here is to solder a nail in the middle of the pipe (knuckle) which will be inserted into hull to hold the gun lid, allowing it to be opened...
The leaf part will be twisted around other nail (in this case a pin) and solder as well..
Here is my template...
End results..
The knuckles...
Extra soldering will be removed before blackening takes part.
And this is how I am planning to have it done..
The other part of a leaf will be soldered under knuckle and hopefully some solder will not prevent swinging...
The excess nail length was cut.
Happy modelling..
First I use some tiny pipe I have and cute 25, 6mm long pieces...
Actually I had to cut 4 more because of "interesting phenomena" when little pieces fly after being cut...
But, there is always a cure...
They will need to be cleaned a bit and blackened after... The idea here is to solder a nail in the middle of the pipe (knuckle) which will be inserted into hull to hold the gun lid, allowing it to be opened...
The leaf part will be twisted around other nail (in this case a pin) and solder as well..
Here is my template...
End results..
The knuckles...
Extra soldering will be removed before blackening takes part.
And this is how I am planning to have it done..
The other part of a leaf will be soldered under knuckle and hopefully some solder will not prevent swinging...
The excess nail length was cut.
Happy modelling..
Last edited:
Good morning. Very cool hinges. I don’t know how you guys solder so small- I made “fake” hinges on my Xebec - way to go. Cheers Grant
Thanks Grant.. yeah, it was kind of difficult and burning sensation; holding that small piece of pipe (6mm long) can be not quite pleasant.
Leaves are slightly trimmed so the part that will be twisted around the nail, can close the loop, without any extra length.
Lots of soldering paste makes the solder tiny and small, running nicely around the nail and leaves.
Once all part are ready for assembly, leaves with a nail was put first on gun lid, nail was run thru knuckles then another leaves was twisted around the nail then all secured with wise; then again lots of soldering paste on bottom leave makes the solder run smoothly and not grabbing the nail. As soon as soldering is done, the test was performed to make sure knuckles can move freely. If the solder grabbed knuckles and nail, remove solder and start again. I have few extra part I perform testing before start actually work...
Happy modelling..
Yeah, well some bad news.... well not that bad.... my newly arrived yellow paint was slightly different than one I already used so little bit of re-do... just another layer of yellow air brushed paint on the model and on the gun port lids.. Done.
But another bad news... during my cleanup time I removed several hinge leaves for good. I was looking for some options to get them online but decided to make my own... so here we are, scratch build again..
First cut the brass sheet in dimension and cover it with green tape - tape will be used for easy marking..
Then cut them all and remove green tape. Then clean one side of a belt with 600 sand paper. This should make blackening easier..
Then I twisted one end just around the edge of a metal ruler which will hold the hinge pin.
With hinge pin in place and using flat nose pliers I squeezed the edges making little loop.
Next was to solder the back end of a hinge leaves, effectively glueing two ends together.
I did not pay to much attention that those two ends are aligned and have to sand excess...
After sanding..
Now fun part, need to make 90 degrees angle so the hinge can fit on the gun lid.. This process involved putting a piece of metal into wise to the hight I need and squeezing with fingers leaves in 90 degrees angle.
...
But another bad news... during my cleanup time I removed several hinge leaves for good. I was looking for some options to get them online but decided to make my own... so here we are, scratch build again..
First cut the brass sheet in dimension and cover it with green tape - tape will be used for easy marking..
Then cut them all and remove green tape. Then clean one side of a belt with 600 sand paper. This should make blackening easier..
Then I twisted one end just around the edge of a metal ruler which will hold the hinge pin.
With hinge pin in place and using flat nose pliers I squeezed the edges making little loop.
Next was to solder the back end of a hinge leaves, effectively glueing two ends together.
I did not pay to much attention that those two ends are aligned and have to sand excess...
After sanding..
Now fun part, need to make 90 degrees angle so the hinge can fit on the gun lid.. This process involved putting a piece of metal into wise to the hight I need and squeezing with fingers leaves in 90 degrees angle.
...
After all are done, I dipped them into blackening solution for short time and cleaned up with fresh water..
Now lets make some knuckles...
First pin that will be soldered (and eventually fit to the hull) had to be flattened so it will sit on the knuckle nicely...
Sanding it..
and end result..
Now lets make some knuckles out of tiny pipe...this time I used smaller pipe that before, originally was kind of too wide..
Clean up the pipe with a flush cutter to make a flat cut..
Not affiliated with any tool but this cutter is perfect..
No pipe squeeze, just clean cut..
Now lets add some soldering paste..
and solder..
Then solder a pin..
The length of a knuckles should be 5mm..
With previously mentioned cutters, cut the knuckle and do one more cut to clean the pipe, getting it ready for another solder process..
Testing the pin fitting and cleaning inside of a pipe..
And end results..
Blackening applied..
OK... that should do the trick... all hinge parts are safely added into small box and put aside... just in case.... need to move forward with build process and not just building hinges
Happy modelling..
Now lets make some knuckles...
First pin that will be soldered (and eventually fit to the hull) had to be flattened so it will sit on the knuckle nicely...
Sanding it..
and end result..
Now lets make some knuckles out of tiny pipe...this time I used smaller pipe that before, originally was kind of too wide..
Clean up the pipe with a flush cutter to make a flat cut..
Not affiliated with any tool but this cutter is perfect..
No pipe squeeze, just clean cut..
Now lets add some soldering paste..
and solder..
Then solder a pin..
The length of a knuckles should be 5mm..
With previously mentioned cutters, cut the knuckle and do one more cut to clean the pipe, getting it ready for another solder process..
Testing the pin fitting and cleaning inside of a pipe..
And end results..
Blackening applied..
OK... that should do the trick... all hinge parts are safely added into small box and put aside... just in case.... need to move forward with build process and not just building hinges
Happy modelling..
A bit more leaves were made...
Sticking out parts were sanded
Then the 90 degrees angle was applied.
Blackening was applied to all leaves..
Little tiny pieces of solder were cut which will be used to solder pin to the leaves.
The paste was added to the area and one solder bit was added to the paste. Then the soldering was completed.
One side of the leaves are soldered, then the hinge will be added to the pin and then the second leaves will be added to the pin and solder on the opposite side, Making sure that hinge is free to move..
In the meantime I was working on gun lids to make sure they can fit into. The idea is to sand internal part of the lid so all lids will be lining up nicely.
A bit of a cleanup and touchup is needed..
Happy modelling..
Sticking out parts were sanded
Then the 90 degrees angle was applied.
Blackening was applied to all leaves..
Little tiny pieces of solder were cut which will be used to solder pin to the leaves.
The paste was added to the area and one solder bit was added to the paste. Then the soldering was completed.
One side of the leaves are soldered, then the hinge will be added to the pin and then the second leaves will be added to the pin and solder on the opposite side, Making sure that hinge is free to move..
In the meantime I was working on gun lids to make sure they can fit into. The idea is to sand internal part of the lid so all lids will be lining up nicely.
A bit of a cleanup and touchup is needed..
Happy modelling..
10/10 for the scratch hinges. I’ve been chickening out of some metal work and been 3D printing. Kudos. Cheers Grant
It is just tiny for a slightly large fingers but you will definitely obtain better consistency when it comes to part shape with 3D. I still have not opened my 3D printer yet, will start with figures for this model..
Cheers
Working on gunport lids, making sure they can fit into openings... this will allow me to line them up nicely above that bottom yellow line..
This will end up in four gunport lids for openings that are at the stern... this area does not have guns and will be just faking openings..
Happy modelling...
This will end up in four gunport lids for openings that are at the stern... this area does not have guns and will be just faking openings..
Happy modelling...
Getting ready for gunport lids assembly by running a painter tape line to mark the bottom of all lids... also marking a place for 4 lids placed on simulating gun openings, towards the stern...
Lets run another layer of a yellow paint on gunport lids, back side first... on the piece of crap wood, I put planks with dual tape on it, so lids will lay down with minimum contact on the front side.. for simulating gunport lids are also there..
Then while this is drying, lets put some hooks for gun rigging... this time using what comes in kit.. 0.47mm wire/hooks..
First marking a pilot hole on gun carriage, this time for a train tackles, so the drill will not jumping all over the place making a mess needed to be repaired and drill the hole with 0.5mm drill bit..
Then I dropped a little ca glue from the bottom side since I was drilling all the way thru. This will help fixing the hooks with a glue that is not visible.
Then the hook is pushed all the way in..
In the meantime I run protective layer of satin varnish on the whole hull; this will allow me to clean up all that dust fairly easily and protect the hull from other stuff that come along easily..
Happy modelling..
Lets run another layer of a yellow paint on gunport lids, back side first... on the piece of crap wood, I put planks with dual tape on it, so lids will lay down with minimum contact on the front side.. for simulating gunport lids are also there..
Then while this is drying, lets put some hooks for gun rigging... this time using what comes in kit.. 0.47mm wire/hooks..
First marking a pilot hole on gun carriage, this time for a train tackles, so the drill will not jumping all over the place making a mess needed to be repaired and drill the hole with 0.5mm drill bit..
Then I dropped a little ca glue from the bottom side since I was drilling all the way thru. This will help fixing the hooks with a glue that is not visible.
Then the hook is pushed all the way in..
In the meantime I run protective layer of satin varnish on the whole hull; this will allow me to clean up all that dust fairly easily and protect the hull from other stuff that come along easily..
Happy modelling..
Math was not a strongest point during my elementary school but I believe I can count fairly decent.... so going thru all included metal parts I noticed that some of needed parts are not included in required number, specifically hooks for train tackles. Well, yet another scratch build part for this kit... for 18 guns (and two extra sets) I will need 80 hooks/eyes.
First, I made an eye..
Then soldering the eye using lots of paste and tiny amount of solder.
Almost there...
40 done..
Now, lets make hooks..
And all 40 completed..
Now, let s make another 40...
I could not believe that so far I uploaded 502 pictures and the most interesting parts are comming..
Happy modelling..
First, I made an eye..
Then soldering the eye using lots of paste and tiny amount of solder.
Almost there...
40 done..
Now, lets make hooks..
And all 40 completed..
Now, let s make another 40...
I could not believe that so far I uploaded 502 pictures and the most interesting parts are comming..
Happy modelling..
Dear friends, did not forget about the ship; just few around the house project chew up my time...
Shortly, back in modelling karma
Shortly, back in modelling karma
So, here we are again, after some work around the house and between FIFA.....
You might noticed different hinges on my gun opening lids; they are result of my third attempt to make them acceptable for my liking. I like previous version where lids were able to swing freely but since all of them will be either closed or open in some sort of fix position, I decided to make a new run of hinges, out of paper and with plastic covered copper wire.
Paper hinges were made out of two printer paper sheets, glued together, blackened with India ink and cut in 3mm strips. The edges of strips were covered with same ink, they were glued to the lids, hinges were glued with CA and excess was removed with scalpel...
Once they are all done, I continued working on the lid span and lanyards. With no much precise direction from kit, I did a bit of research and decided to go with one line (actually two, lanyard and span) but with vertical port lids position, which kind of matching kit instruction.
First the hole was drilled in lids, for rope - I might use only one rope for both lanyard and span but will see..
Then I started to mark the position of a hole for each lid rope on the hull. For this I made a small template...
The hole was marked at 12mm from the gun port opening.
Then I decided to put some rivets in the rope hole, to make it more nicer...
The idea is to have rope line going thru rivets, on both side of the hull. At outer hull side, the rivet was left in its full length (which is 3mm), and for inner hull side, the rivet was cut to 1.5 mm, so both rivets will fit into same hole, not sticking out on either side.
The hole for rivets were made using 0.7mm drill.
Rivets were inserted in the hole using whatever tool is acceptable but first a drop of CA glue was applied to hole...
Testing...
Inner and outer side of the hull..
Now, lets get back to FIFA..
Happy modelling..
You might noticed different hinges on my gun opening lids; they are result of my third attempt to make them acceptable for my liking. I like previous version where lids were able to swing freely but since all of them will be either closed or open in some sort of fix position, I decided to make a new run of hinges, out of paper and with plastic covered copper wire.
Paper hinges were made out of two printer paper sheets, glued together, blackened with India ink and cut in 3mm strips. The edges of strips were covered with same ink, they were glued to the lids, hinges were glued with CA and excess was removed with scalpel...
Once they are all done, I continued working on the lid span and lanyards. With no much precise direction from kit, I did a bit of research and decided to go with one line (actually two, lanyard and span) but with vertical port lids position, which kind of matching kit instruction.
First the hole was drilled in lids, for rope - I might use only one rope for both lanyard and span but will see..
Then I started to mark the position of a hole for each lid rope on the hull. For this I made a small template...
The hole was marked at 12mm from the gun port opening.
Then I decided to put some rivets in the rope hole, to make it more nicer...
The idea is to have rope line going thru rivets, on both side of the hull. At outer hull side, the rivet was left in its full length (which is 3mm), and for inner hull side, the rivet was cut to 1.5 mm, so both rivets will fit into same hole, not sticking out on either side.
The hole for rivets were made using 0.7mm drill.
Rivets were inserted in the hole using whatever tool is acceptable but first a drop of CA glue was applied to hole...
Testing...
Inner and outer side of the hull..
Now, lets get back to FIFA..
Happy modelling..
I like the rivets. Will you blacken them or leave them as they are?
Thanks.
I left them as they are...