Misticque, 1/36 - Build Log by Moreplovac

[moreplovac]

My rail adventure continues.... decided to toss original attempt and make a new one out of one wood piece, following template...



First, I traced the outline and then with assistance of herr Staedtler, I traced the inner line as well.. then cut the pieces on a bend saw.. and since the piece was thicker than needed, I also run it thur the bend saw to cut the thickness in half, lengthwise..






Then I mounted it on the ship...













Peak from the fruit seller point of view...



Tomorrow will continue with sanding and final touches to the rails.

Happy modelling..

 

[moreplovac]

Finally I was able to complete the rail board; took me a bit to have it cut, sanded, adjusted, etc but it is done to acceptable quality. Still not sure how I supposed to twist laterally planks from the kit in such a strong lateral curve the board of such wood type, If anyone has some other idea pls let me know. I have tried soaking it in water, alcohol, tried using plank bender but with no luck, except to be able to break it on two places... anyhow... here are results of using different board, cut following template of the deck curve..



There are some damages I have to fix with putty...





after all is done, the black paint was applied to rail board...



The work on the foremast framing started...



Plenty of adjusting and sanding is required for this area since the kit assembly manual is very weak and lots of other resources are needed in order to find the appropriate way of mounting... I also added few simulating nails out of a copper wire.. in the far front of the bow, you will see one additional piece of wood, in the middle, as I was unable to mount correctly the part labeled M4. That notch showed on the plan is not cut in the M4 part and was not able to locate on the manual (not visible at all) where and how it supposed to be mounted. After all, mounted in the way I thought it is the correct way..



Happy modelling..

 

[dockattner]

Finally I was able to complete the rail board; took me a bit to have it cut, sanded, adjusted, etc but it is done to acceptable quality. Still not sure how I supposed to twist laterally planks from the kit in such a strong lateral curve the board of such wood type, If anyone has some other idea pls let me know. I have tried soaking it in water, alcohol, tried using plank bender but with no luck, except to be able to break it on two places... anyhow... here are results of using different board, cut following template of the deck curve..

View attachment 577767

There are some damages I have to fix with putty...

View attachment 577766

View attachment 577765

after all is done, the black paint was applied to rail board...

View attachment 577763

The work on the foremast framing started...

View attachment 577764

Plenty of adjusting and sanding is required for this area since the kit assembly manual is very weak and lots of other resources are needed in order to find the appropriate way of mounting... I also added few simulating nails out of a copper wire.. in the far front of the bow, you will see one additional piece of wood, in the middle, as I was unable to mount correctly the part labeled M4. That notch showed on the plan is not cut in the M4 part and was not able to locate on the manual (not visible at all) where and how it supposed to be mounted. After all, mounted in the way I thought it is the correct way..

View attachment 577793

Happy modelling..

Nice result!

I'm fully convinced that some of these kits have never been built by the people selling them...

 

[moreplovac]

Nice result!

I'm fully convinced that some of these kits have never been built by the people selling them...

Thank you.
Yeah, I spend several hours trying to figure out how to put M5 part to M4 and have I5 resting on M5 and resting on I4 at the same time.... Finally decided to drop M5 under M4, otherwise will have to rebuild complete mast timber assembly to accommodate only one part... which is not going to happen.

 

[moreplovac]

Mounting time... manage to get mast timber in place... another layer of touch up black color is needed to cover the traces of CA glue. Had to test position of all timbers in this assembly before final glueing as it is not that simple and cannot quite look in kit manual for directions... Not sure about other kits from the same manufacturer, but this one is, in the lack of correct words, very strange manual...









I used kit provided hooks, they look fairly up to scale and need to used them somewhere Hatches and hatch covers were build already, the covers were protected with a layer of tung oil and I was using kit provided planks for this assembly. Covers are put together with a piece of painter' tape at the back to keep them from failing apart and hooks are glued with small amount of CA glue, once put in the openings. The hooks have lots of extra material after cutting to correct length and I am using it to simulate nails.

Happy modelling..

 

[moreplovac]

Another "booboo"...


I am fairly sure that distance between rudder and keel is not supposed to be like this... Well, another challenge to tackle including sanding 0.5 mm so the rudder can fit perfectly.....

OK, now I am preparing hull for airbrushing... first will be a white colour filling up waterline and below, including keel and part of a rudder. But other parts needs to be protected so let start from waterline up..



For gun ports, since they are coloured in red, I need to protect the openings but leaving planks to accept the yellow colour, which i decided to be used there, about 2.5cm from the railings towards the keel. Decision is to run the tape and cut all around gun ports and oar ports. This area will be painted by hand and it will have gun port lids so hoping there will be no visible difference.





I will later tried to narrow the green boxes, to be as closes as possible to gun/oar opening edges. I might make separate boxes out of tape and put them on, but this will be done alter, once waterline area is completed. I think I do have some Tamiya tapes in different width that will help..

The deck is covered and all other parts that are not to be exposed to airbrush..



Then I used my special tool and run the waterline. It is bit difficult to measure waterline position from the kit plan which is not 1:1 scale, so I have done the best to measure and mark location of waterline... making sure the ship is flat on the desk, running the line is not difficult... both hull sides are matching correctly..





There are some wood filler spots that will be sanded before painting is applied..





Then I put a masking tape following the waterline. This is Tamiya masking tape, easy to twist and curve, hopefully it will hold the paint nicely. I will run a test airbrush line on a piece of scrap wood with this tape, just to make sure it will not bleed..









And the hull is in spraying area, waiting for white colour... and I also have to wait for a colour since I run out of it and ordered a bottle...



Happy modelling..

 

[Namabiiru]

A tip to prevent bleeding is to first spray whatever color will go on the areas currently masked to seal the mask. If the plan is to to leave them natural, then spray with clear coat. Just make sure it’s compatible with whatever you plan to spray next.

 

[moreplovac]

A tip to prevent bleeding is to first spray whatever color will go on the areas currently masked to seal the mask. If the plan is to to leave them natural, then spray with clear coat. Just make sure it’s compatible with whatever you plan to spray next.

Excellent, thank you for the tip. Not quite used to airbrush on wood models, I am on planes but this will be the first time... Do you think primer is needed?
Planning to run several watered layers instead of two thick and sand it lightly after each layer..

 

[Namabiiru]

I would definitely suggest primer

 

[Tony P]

It’s going to be very difficult to not have bleed where wood planks are involved. There’s really no way to really burnish the tape down even the great Tamiya tape. I would mask it a bit short of the line then go in with a brush for the actual edge using a straight edge as a guide. The key is very little paint on the brush and very short areas at a time. I’ve painted many plastic and resin hulls and they’re no joy, wood is even more difficult.
Agree with the above by Namabiiru

 

[Namabiiru]

Laying down a clear coat first will seal the mask to prevent bleeding. Follow that with primer to ensure even color of the primary color. Make a compatibility test on a mule before trying anything for the first time on the finish piece

 

[moreplovac]

Thank you guys for responses, tips taken, appreciated.

 

[moreplovac]

So far, here are I am after few layers... needs to do a bit of touch up to cover those areas where planks are not fit perfectly together; prefer to leave it like this and not to use wood filler, it looks like some real old ship to me.. but primer does make a difference..



I really do like airbrush and get used to use it on this project even dough I have to spend almost same amount of time cleaning it as spraying, after each layer of paint..

While waiting for paint to dry, I started to work on ship' boat, which was damaged during assembly. First, have two blocks of basswood glued together to get correct width..



Then once dried, I marked down frame positions; for this one I just use existing frames, traced on a paper its shape and cut the template. This will be used during sanding to make sure boat shape is correct.









Then the boat contours are traced,



First run on a band saw to remove excess wood...





Now, lets do some carving..

Happy modelling..

 

[moreplovac]

Here are results of a first airbrush attempt on wooden ship model for me... and I like the results..







Peeling off the protection will be a next challenge... lets see..
Well, I have to be really careful and cut a line between paint and a tape so the paint will not follow the painter' tape... not sure if I sprayed to much in this area or paint is very sticky or something else, but careful line cut and pilling resulted in nice white line...



OK, so the next will be black paint and then red, at the end... but first marking the black colour area with painter' tape..

In the meantime, I prepared a mold for ship' boat, sanding it on different tools and at the end, mostly with hand file and sand paper..














Now I will work a bit in paint area which is covered part of my little shop and with a boat, on the desk..

Happy modelling..

 

[Namabiiru]

Here are results of a first airbrush attempt on wooden ship model for me... and I like the results..

View attachment 581213

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View attachment 581211

Peeling off the protection will be a next challenge... lets see..
Well, I have to be really careful and cut a line between paint and a tape so the paint will not follow the painter' tape... not sure if I sprayed to much in this area or paint is very sticky or something else, but careful line cut and pilling resulted in nice white line...

View attachment 581210

OK, so the next will be black paint and then red, at the end... but first marking the black colour area with painter' tape..

In the meantime, I prepared a mold for ship' boat, sanding it on different tools and at the end, mostly with hand file and sand paper..


View attachment 581209

View attachment 581208

View attachment 581207

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View attachment 581204

Now I will work a bit in paint area which is covered part of my little shop and with a boat, on the desk..

Happy modelling..

Nice-looking finish. If the paint comes away with the tape, there are a number things possibly going on. In my experience, the most common culprits are that the surface was not thoroughly cleaned and the paint layers are too thick.

 

[moreplovac]

Nice-looking finish. If the paint comes away with the tape, there are a number things possibly going on. In my experience, the most common culprits are that the surface was not thoroughly cleaned and the paint layers are too thick.

Thank you, I think layers are too tick; it is almost plastic-looking layers towards the bottom of the line... less layers next time...

 

[Tony P]

Looks good. Clean line.

 

[moreplovac]

Now I am at black colour part... masking first line with tamiya tape, other lines with regular painter' tape..



First run of black colour...



After three layers, lets see what we have done...



ahh, some black dust to repair later...



Nice, clean line..









Overall, very happy with results, now yellow is the next, but must make sure existing colours are well covered, no need for more touchups...

Happy modelling..

 

[dockattner]

Impressive!

 

[Jack Sparrow]

Nice and clean.