Have you checked to make sure the gun carriages will fit in the aft-most gun ports? Looks like a tight fit up against the frames.
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Misticque, 1/36 - Build Log by Moreplovac
- Thread starter moreplovac
- Start date
- Watchers 17
Thanks for bringing that up; yes, two last ones needs to be adjusted a bit; even on the plan they look/are very tight; my carriage wheel base is slightly longer so need to accommodate but some adjustment has to be done...
Cheers
Time to do a bit of an analysis... not sure if anyone else experienced the same problem, and if it was covered in some other treads, pls accept my apologies for not reading it thru... going back to my last post about the distance for aft-most gun ports. Kit plan shows very little room for a guns when they will be positioned on the deck. The gun carriage wheel and wheel base are long enough not to fit properly into available space; with all gun rigging that has to be added it is almost impossible to do so.. So, some alterations are required. I tried to move the gun-port frame (item number 32) to the left or right but in any case, bulkheads will be either covering gun ports or oar opening will be covered. Then if you try to move the item 32 towards the bow, it will not match the plan and positions of a gun ports and oar openings. Then, the thoughts were to re-do the wheels and put a smaller one, which will shrink the wheel base as well or to move gun ports 5mm toward the stern and leave oar opening as-is...
So, I decided to go with moving the gun ports 5mm towards to stern, which will provide enough room for current wheel size and room for gun rigging. Yes, it might be a bit out of the symmetry but it will look more weird if two (actually 4) last guns towards the stern are very tight to the bulkheads, even dough this part will not be that visible after upper deck is in position...
The relocation is done by covering 5mm difference with some scraps 1mm planks, and sand then so they can fit nicely in opening. Then with small saw I widened the gun port and filed to the correct size. Must say that at the end, these 4 new gun holes are much more nicely done than original openings
Then some filing and sanding provided the perfect fit into the new position. Now, since I did not like the way the gun ports opening are looking with all those different plywood types visible, I decided to put some planks inside of ports to cover that. It will be painted after but it still be more visible and notable without inside frame.
First I cut required frame planks, in correct dimension.. The width of planks sticks out on inside and outside and it will be sanded flash with bulwark..
Once both sides are done, started to the same with oar openings.. This time was a bit easier since dimensions perfectly fit the available veneer planks...
Here you will notice large amount of CA glue applied to the port frame structure that is sticking out. The veneer are fragile and hard to cut/sand without breaking them so amount of CA with provide additional strength and easy cut afterwards..
This process will be done for all frames, gun and oar frames, both inside and outside of bulwark..
Happy modelling..
So, I decided to go with moving the gun ports 5mm towards to stern, which will provide enough room for current wheel size and room for gun rigging. Yes, it might be a bit out of the symmetry but it will look more weird if two (actually 4) last guns towards the stern are very tight to the bulkheads, even dough this part will not be that visible after upper deck is in position...
The relocation is done by covering 5mm difference with some scraps 1mm planks, and sand then so they can fit nicely in opening. Then with small saw I widened the gun port and filed to the correct size. Must say that at the end, these 4 new gun holes are much more nicely done than original openings
Then some filing and sanding provided the perfect fit into the new position. Now, since I did not like the way the gun ports opening are looking with all those different plywood types visible, I decided to put some planks inside of ports to cover that. It will be painted after but it still be more visible and notable without inside frame.
First I cut required frame planks, in correct dimension.. The width of planks sticks out on inside and outside and it will be sanded flash with bulwark..
Once both sides are done, started to the same with oar openings.. This time was a bit easier since dimensions perfectly fit the available veneer planks...
Here you will notice large amount of CA glue applied to the port frame structure that is sticking out. The veneer are fragile and hard to cut/sand without breaking them so amount of CA with provide additional strength and easy cut afterwards..
This process will be done for all frames, gun and oar frames, both inside and outside of bulwark..
Happy modelling..
For what my opinion is worth, I think you made the right choice in moving the ports. Kit plans are not to be trusted, and the exact same problem arises if one follows the plans for Model Shipways’ Fair American. Fortunately I was alerted to this issue by other build logs early enough in my own build that I was able to adjust the placement of the offending bulkhead before I had to start cutting gun ports.
Happy modeling and merry Christmas!
Happy modeling and merry Christmas!
Thank you Namabiiru, appreciate your input.
Merry Christmas...
Merry Christmas...
Faking treenails is next step I completed...on upper deck...
Then a layer of tung oil was applied on top of maple planks...
Very happy with end result.... need a light sanding after is dry out completely and maybe another layer but will see..
This tung oil layer was done while my red colour was drying on bulwark..
After three layers of thinned down red colour..
Happy modelling..
Then a layer of tung oil was applied on top of maple planks...
Very happy with end result.... need a light sanding after is dry out completely and maybe another layer but will see..
This tung oil layer was done while my red colour was drying on bulwark..
After three layers of thinned down red colour..
Happy modelling..
Thank you Kuba91nt... I tried on a spare planks first as I was thinking between shellac and tung but tung provided nicer result (and no mixing required
).It is even nicer depending on the light...
Cheers
Good morning. Some serious adjustments and worth the effort. I really like the way your maple came up using tung oil. I tried Matt poly on mine but they remain too light. I can’t get tung oil here in SA. Would you know as suitable replacement? Thanks . Grant
I’ve used Teak oil instead of Tung oil with similar results.
Best wishes for a Happy New Year.
I usually work with tung oil, teak oil, shellac or just mineral oil and all depends on type of wood I am using, but the most important is to test on scrap before making decision. On top of any layer I put a protective varnish, usually Liquitex professional satin varnish; this layer provides protection and also gives a bit of a shine to the wood.
HTH
Cheer
Thanks
The bulwark has been painted in red..
Now, it is time to run the waterways (guessing this will be the right term). This piece needs to be curved laterally and for that I first used the template to get the deck curvature... just a few layers of a painter' tape, overlapping each other, pressed towards the edge of the deck and bulwark and cut with a scalper to follow the deck line.
Then the waterway boards were left in alcohol for 15 min and still wet, added to the template, secured by bunch of pins.
For internal pins, I have used spare parts and secured the planks that way because I did not want to have pin marks on the inside of the board, as the board is still wet and soft..
After a 24 hr drying, I glue them to the deck and cover with painters tape for applying the black colour on them.
While the waterways were drying I installed the waterways on the other parts of the deck, where curving is not that massive..
Then, after applying the black paint, I started to run the bulwark stanchions. Here I discovered another issues with a plan: some water openings are overlapping with bulwark stanchions. Now for me it is too late to recover but for future builder, you can pay attention before you install the bulwark and to separate the bulwark plank (one piece, #32) from plank that has water openings and then adjust the water opening plank based on position of bulwark stanchions.
My fancy distance template..
Happy modelling..
Now, it is time to run the waterways (guessing this will be the right term). This piece needs to be curved laterally and for that I first used the template to get the deck curvature... just a few layers of a painter' tape, overlapping each other, pressed towards the edge of the deck and bulwark and cut with a scalper to follow the deck line.
Then the waterway boards were left in alcohol for 15 min and still wet, added to the template, secured by bunch of pins.
For internal pins, I have used spare parts and secured the planks that way because I did not want to have pin marks on the inside of the board, as the board is still wet and soft..
After a 24 hr drying, I glue them to the deck and cover with painters tape for applying the black colour on them.
While the waterways were drying I installed the waterways on the other parts of the deck, where curving is not that massive..
Then, after applying the black paint, I started to run the bulwark stanchions. Here I discovered another issues with a plan: some water openings are overlapping with bulwark stanchions. Now for me it is too late to recover but for future builder, you can pay attention before you install the bulwark and to separate the bulwark plank (one piece, #32) from plank that has water openings and then adjust the water opening plank based on position of bulwark stanchions.
My fancy distance template..
Happy modelling..
So, it is time to start some hull planking job... first I just laid down reference lines; frames are not visible... and needed some ideas how many planks will need per ribbon..
And the first plank is on..
I work both hull sides in parallel...
Planks from the kit are very fragile so I need to secure them before trimming, with a line of scotch tape and new scalpel blade..
More progress soon..
Happy modelling..
And the first plank is on..
I work both hull sides in parallel...
Planks from the kit are very fragile so I need to secure them before trimming, with a line of scotch tape and new scalpel blade..
More progress soon..
Happy modelling..
So, my planking exercise continues with a lots of stealers..
Very curved hull prevents veneer planks to lay flat, as naturally as possible even dough this veneer is forgivable enough for lateral twists.
I will be painting this hull anyway but still want to do as much as possible a decent planking job, just for practice if not for visibility..
Now it is time to measure and fill out belts.. this will be require tapering from 5mm in the middle to 3mm towards the stern.. unfortunately this set of veneer planks are 5mm wide so have to work with those dimensions..
Looking into amount of currently available golden teak planks, I think I might be running out of them... golden teak planks supposed to be used for second planking for hull, deck and upper deck and I used few for bulwark but since I used maple planks for decks, was thinking will be enough... Oh, well, will see how far I can go with golden teak...
Happy modelling.
Very curved hull prevents veneer planks to lay flat, as naturally as possible even dough this veneer is forgivable enough for lateral twists.
I will be painting this hull anyway but still want to do as much as possible a decent planking job, just for practice if not for visibility..
Now it is time to measure and fill out belts.. this will be require tapering from 5mm in the middle to 3mm towards the stern.. unfortunately this set of veneer planks are 5mm wide so have to work with those dimensions..
Looking into amount of currently available golden teak planks, I think I might be running out of them... golden teak planks supposed to be used for second planking for hull, deck and upper deck and I used few for bulwark but since I used maple planks for decks, was thinking will be enough... Oh, well, will see how far I can go with golden teak...
Happy modelling.
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Nice clean work! Hope you don't run out of teak!
Must drop by Ikea to get few of those flexible measuring tapes.. in the meantime green painter' tape will assist taking measurements..
Starting/continuing with planking but measuring number of planks per ribbon..
Measuring on different ship length and determining the dimension/tapering per each plank..
Few planks added..
Today' progress..
I also do the same planking on the opposite side of the hull, in parallel, one plank per side, to make sure the planks are mirror image on both sides..
Happy modelling..
Starting/continuing with planking but measuring number of planks per ribbon..
Measuring on different ship length and determining the dimension/tapering per each plank..
Few planks added..
Today' progress..
I also do the same planking on the opposite side of the hull, in parallel, one plank per side, to make sure the planks are mirror image on both sides..
Happy modelling..
Apparently, hull is planked using two types of planks, so I am good, there will be enough for the whole hull but still slightly suspicious would it be enough if I used golden teak for deck planking... anyhow... here is a progress
I could not resist to do a few sanding runs using 220 paper just to get a teaser for the end result... and I like it..
Happy modelling..
I could not resist to do a few sanding runs using 220 paper just to get a teaser for the end result... and I like it..
Happy modelling..