Part 4 .Start of the side walls.
First fit, paint, and then install.
First fit, paint, and then install.
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Pelican scale 1/45 a small English galleon 16th century
Part 5 Further finishing.
so far, so good
so far, so good
Looks great, Patrick! Your vision is being realized!
Nice comment. Thank you
Found this info while sorting the photos.
Bolts, The bolts on the model are 1mm nails with blackened heads.
Bolts, The bolts on the model are 1mm nails with blackened heads.
The Cannons, Part 1
Given that virtually no cannon was identical during this period, they are all slightly different. Most of the information was found here, of which I unfortunately do not have a digital copy of the left document.
The cannons were purchased from various brands and modified on my "high-tech" lathe.
test setup.
And further finished.
The bore diameter on these cannons is actually too large, which is why it has been modified.
Given that virtually no cannon was identical during this period, they are all slightly different. Most of the information was found here, of which I unfortunately do not have a digital copy of the left document.
The cannons were purchased from various brands and modified on my "high-tech" lathe.
test setup.
And further finished.
The bore diameter on these cannons is actually too large, which is why it has been modified.
I love the idea of mixed guns, Patrick. It adds to the story the model is telling.
Part 2. Painting
After a coat of spray primer, a layer of Tamiya matte black was applied.
After drying, a wash with diluted metallic paint and some pencil here and there.
After a coat of spray primer, a layer of Tamiya matte black was applied.
After drying, a wash with diluted metallic paint and some pencil here and there.
Part 3. The cannon carriages.
These are made of pine wood and then painted as described for the hull.
Shaping and cutting to size was done with the miter saw.
Making the wheels.
Assembly
These are made of pine wood and then painted as described for the hull.
Shaping and cutting to size was done with the miter saw.
Making the wheels.
Assembly
Part 4. Placing and rigging the cannons
For the blocks, plastic blocks from Billing's Vasa were used. These are virtually invisible later.
height adjustment before securing
The gun carriages are screwed on
rigging
and with cannons
For the blocks, plastic blocks from Billing's Vasa were used. These are virtually invisible later.
height adjustment before securing
The gun carriages are screwed on
rigging
and with cannons
The main deck. Given the number of photos, this will be spread across several steps.
Step 1: the deck beams
First wet them, bend them, and let them dry.
Placing the deck beams
There is also modern led lighting.
Determining the position of the main mast.
Determining the position of the hatches.
Step 1: the deck beams
First wet them, bend them, and let them dry.
Placing the deck beams
There is also modern led lighting.
Determining the position of the main mast.
Determining the position of the hatches.
Step 2
Further construction of the hatch or grating opening.
And construction and painting of the stairs.
Further construction of the hatch or grating opening.
And construction and painting of the stairs.
Step 3. Construction of the knight and other attributes (the correct name escapes me)
The knight and the "attributes" are constructed from different layers. The discs are made of polystyrene.
Place the discs in the openings
Drill a hole
insert brass pin
finish
and paint
Everything neatly placed
The knight and the "attributes" are constructed from different layers. The discs are made of polystyrene.
Place the discs in the openings
Drill a hole
insert brass pin
finish
and paint
Everything neatly placed
Step 4: the planking.
Some 16th-century (San Juan, Mary Rose) and 17th-century (Vasa) examples
We continue with the ramin wood. "Tree nails" are placed in the plank beforehand. Then lightly painted with heavily diluted grey and polished with Scotchbrite.
The scuppers
Some 16th-century (San Juan, Mary Rose) and 17th-century (Vasa) examples
We continue with the ramin wood. "Tree nails" are placed in the plank beforehand. Then lightly painted with heavily diluted grey and polished with Scotchbrite.
The scuppers
Step 5
Construction of the whipstaff.
And a fully planked deck
Construction of the whipstaff.
And a fully planked deck
Finally. Step 6
Finishing the side boards.
And ready
Finishing the side boards.
And ready
Almost forgotten: the channels, these were installed before placing the main deck
Again in several steps. Step 1: gathering information
The San Juan was very helpful
From San Juan and Vasa
Books
Thinking..
.
Drawing
And sawing wood.
Again in several steps. Step 1: gathering information
The San Juan was very helpful
From San Juan and Vasa
Books
Thinking..
.
Drawing
And sawing wood.
Step 2 The main mast channel.
First, determine how wide it needs to be.
Then make and install the standards
Fit the channels and glue them in place.
Note:
In hindsight, the channels could, should have been thinner.
And not come into contact with the wale (hull) along their entire length. Just like with Mary Rose.
First, determine how wide it needs to be.
Then make and install the standards
Fit the channels and glue them in place.
Note:
In hindsight, the channels could, should have been thinner.
And not come into contact with the wale (hull) along their entire length. Just like with Mary Rose.
Step 3. The "supports" of the main mast wale.
lower part, building
painting
Gluing
upper part, building
painted and gluing
ready, the horizontal beam is a rigging rail
lower part, building
painting
Gluing
upper part, building
painted and gluing
ready, the horizontal beam is a rigging rail
Step 5. The standards and channels of the foremast.
Once again, first determine the width and shape
Parts are "ready" for use
Andgluing on the model
Once again, first determine the width and shape
Parts are "ready" for use
Andgluing on the model