Great tip to have into account when working the gunport of the Golden Hind I´m building. Didn't think about cleaning and removal of any releasing agent. Always learning !!
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The Black Swan by OcCre 1:75: Build Log
- Thread starter Rob444
- Start date
- Watchers 13
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- Tags
- black swan occre
One thing great about SOS is that we are always learning from each other!
After the floor lumbers were attached to the launch the frame and floor were stained with the walnut stain.
The laser cut building platform that provides support when planking the launch was glued into place and the frames faired in preparation for the planking.
While waiting for things to dry the small skylight that provides light for the gallery was constructed and painted. It was glued to the appropriate location on the poop deck.
The laser cut building platform that provides support when planking the launch was glued into place and the frames faired in preparation for the planking.
While waiting for things to dry the small skylight that provides light for the gallery was constructed and painted. It was glued to the appropriate location on the poop deck.
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Two catheads were constructed using 4x4mm strip.
I wanted to make sure they were solidly attached to the hull so 5 minute epoxy was used to secure them.
They were then painted black.
While I was waiting for the epoxy to set the anchors were assembled and painted as well as the plaque with the ships name that goes on the cradle that holds the ship.
I wanted to make sure they were solidly attached to the hull so 5 minute epoxy was used to secure them.
They were then painted black.
While I was waiting for the epoxy to set the anchors were assembled and painted as well as the plaque with the ships name that goes on the cradle that holds the ship.
To simulate the steering cable. 0.15mm line was wrapped around the drum on the ships wheel. The instructions would have you set two eyebolts on the deck and tie the line to them. I did not like the look of this. Instead I drilled 2 0.8mm holes when the eyebolts would be attached and glued one end of the line into one of the holes and let it dry. I then wrapped the line around the drum. After several turns I glued the line to the drum suing a dab of glue on the bottom of the drum to conceal it. The free end of the line was held in tension using a clamp until the glue set. After that, the free end was fed into the second hole and held with tweezers in tension until the glue set.
The cradle for the ship was stained and assembled and the plaque was attached.
Various deck components are attached. I will not attach the capstan until I step the mast as it fits around the mast.
Various deck components are attached. I will not attach the capstan until I step the mast as it fits around the mast.
The launches planking was completed and the hull was sanded and some wood filler used. The keel was attached. The cured keel piece that goes in the from is mislabeled as T-15. The photographic identifies it as S-14.
Th support base was cut out from the bottom.
Th support base was cut out from the bottom.
In order to jazz up the launch a little I decided to make a rudder for it. I didn't think a rudderless launch would do. I glued together 2 pieces of 4x4mm strip and traced a rudder design onto it.
I cut the design out and using my nail drill I rounded the edges.
Using some metallic tape, "hinges" were fashioned on the hull and the rudder and it was glued into place with CA. A tiller was made from some wire.
I will probably be painting the hull and rudder, but the hinges will be evident under the paint.
I cut the design out and using my nail drill I rounded the edges.
Using some metallic tape, "hinges" were fashioned on the hull and the rudder and it was glued into place with CA. A tiller was made from some wire.
I will probably be painting the hull and rudder, but the hinges will be evident under the paint.
Using 1x3mm strip some thwarts and a railing was made for the launch and glued into place with some PVA. The railing was bent using some heat and soaking the wood.
After allowing the PVA to dry the launch was sanded again with some 400 grit sanding block and coated with 2 coats of sanding sealer.
After allowing the PVA to dry the launch was sanded again with some 400 grit sanding block and coated with 2 coats of sanding sealer.
This should have been done before, but there are 12 casted figurines that are to be place below the captains cabin (gallery?) that I suppose were to help support it. These really should be put on before all the deck furniture is added. To do it the ship was placed upside down (I use a soft foam cradle when building this ship).
To make sure the figurines were securely held in place 5 minute epoxy was used instead of CA. The figurines were held in place until the epoxy was tacky. I used a mall dental applicator to remove excess epoxy.
The epoxy was allowed to dry for several hours before I moved the ship. It looks much better right side up!
To make sure the figurines were securely held in place 5 minute epoxy was used instead of CA. The figurines were held in place until the epoxy was tacky. I used a mall dental applicator to remove excess epoxy.
The epoxy was allowed to dry for several hours before I moved the ship. It looks much better right side up!
The launch was painted with a white hull and read and black trim.
I think it looks good on the ship, but probably too good for being on a pirate ship.
I think it looks good on the ship, but probably too good for being on a pirate ship.
The channels are next. They use some line instead of chain plates. Im not a big fan but it is what it is. I decided to attach the deadeyes to the channels before they are installed. I think it may be easier. There are two sizes of deadeyes, but the pictures are pretty explicit about what goes where. Each deadeye was checked and drilled to make sure the channels for the lanyards were clear. The smaller deadeyes especially had channels that were blocked. Better to make sure they are clear now then when attached to the ship. The deadeyes were seized to the lines. I use these small electrical test clips as small clamps to hold the lines. I find them easier to use than alligator clips.
The deadeyes were rotated to the correct position. I had to enlarge the holes on the channels to allow the lines to pass. I used a needle threader to help with that.
The deadeyes were rotated to the correct position. I had to enlarge the holes on the channels to allow the lines to pass. I used a needle threader to help with that.
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The channels were attached to the hull with CA. A small pin was inserted into the back of the channel and a hole made into the hull to help with a more secure attachment. There is not a lot of information provided to determine where the channels should go. The best I found was pictures showing the arrangement of different size deadeyes on the channels. The picture showed where the channels were located relative to the deck and guns.
When the channels were firmly attached to the hull the lines representing the chain plates were twisted around each other and nails set 18mm bellow the channels. The line was twisted around the nails and they were set with CA. The nails were blackened by using a sharpie.
When the channels were firmly attached to the hull the lines representing the chain plates were twisted around each other and nails set 18mm bellow the channels. The line was twisted around the nails and they were set with CA. The nails were blackened by using a sharpie.