1:48 scale Le Cygne

Every ship of the period from 1750 to mid 1800's That I have seen has tapered deck planks. Kit manufacturers supply scored sheets for deck planking because it is simple to apply and cheap to make. The "rule" was that if the end of the plank, where it meets the waterway (or Margin plank) could not be less than half the width of the plank. The "joggling" rules also include the "Sniping" of the plank, which must be at least twice the width of the plank. This is clearly explained on pages 119 and 120 in "The Anatomy of Nelsons Ships" Perhaps I can figure out how to post these pages.
The method I used was to make a jig to duplicate the actual size and curvature of the deck. The quarter deck, forecastle, and gun deck each required a jig. I then made a substrate of 1/32" basswood sheet the exact shape of the deck, and pinned that to the jig. Then, I used 1/32" thick basswood strips for the actual planks. These planks were individually tapered, cut to length ( I used a four step butt plank pattern) and glued to the substrate. I cut strips of dark brown art paper set on edge to simulate the caulking. I used clear Epoxy to glue everything. You can do two rows of planking at a time, then let the epoxy harden. The waterway, or margin board , with the planks properly " Joggled" is the final part to add - again using the art paper for the caulking.
The final part is to trim the paper and glue with a shaving blade and sand the finished deck. I would recommend adding a couple of coats of varnish and a fine sanding.. Remove the deck assembly - the substrate and planks - which is 1/16" thick, and fit to the ship. It may require some sanding around the edges
This takes some time and work, but it produces an authentic looking deck and is worth the extra effort!
 
Walt,I am having difficulty envisioning the jigs and since everything proceeds from there, have you, perchance, photo documented this process?
I joggled the deck planks of a Baltimore Clipper that I built, starting with the center planks and working to the sides, alternating sides. I cut the plank tips to the proper shape to be let into the margin plank (already glued in place) traced off the plank tip pattern onto the margin plank and chopped out the part to receive the joggled tip of the plank. I first laid the whole plank in place and marked off where the ends crossed the margin plank and tapered the plank accordingly, before in laying the shaped plank tip. Worked pretty well. Fortunately, the hull was sufficiently symmetrical so that everything worked out pretty evenly.
I would like to try your method on my "Flying Cloud" model, since it has both forecastle and quarter decks. I'm thinking of presenting the model "dockyard" style.
Your method would greatly enhance the presentation since the focus is on the ship proper and not the rig.
I'll check out Edward Tosti's book on "young America' which, at present I seem to have misplaced which is pretty hard to do since it is a pretty big book!
Thanks for sharing all your knowledge and expertise! :D

Pete
 
I tapered some of the deck ends, joggling to advanced for me with the tools I’m using. I am a younger builder, time is limited, and access to tools as well. Also trying out multiple woods for this project. Finding out which are ideal and which are not. I used cheep poplar for the frame, bad idea. Poplar would be fine for deck due to very close grain.

CF53612A-0A02-4056-B4A8-DB449ABEDFEA.jpeg

DDA0A792-3340-431F-BC2E-27BED296EE2E.jpeg
 
Walt Zimmerman said:
Every ship of the period from 1750 to mid 1800's That I have seen has tapered deck planks. Kit manufacturers supply scored sheets for deck planking because it is simple to apply and cheap to make. The "rule" was that if the end of the plank, where it meets the waterway (or Margin plank) could not be less than half the width of the plank. The "joggling" rules also include the "Sniping" of the plank, which must be at least twice the width of the plank. This is clearly explained on pages 119 and 120 in "The Anatomy of Nelsons Ships" Perhaps I can figure out how to post these pages.
The method I used was to make a jig to duplicate the actual size and curvature of the deck. The quarter deck, forecastle, and gun deck each required a jig. I then made a substrate of 1/32" basswood sheet the exact shape of the deck, and pinned that to the jig. Then, I used 1/32" thick basswood strips for the actual planks. These planks were individually tapered, cut to length ( I used a four step butt plank pattern) and glued to the substrate. I cut strips of dark brown art paper set on edge to simulate the caulking. I used clear Epoxy to glue everything. You can do two rows of planking at a time, then let the epoxy harden. The waterway, or margin board , with the planks properly " Joggled" is the final part to add - again using the art paper for the caulking.
The final part is to trim the paper and glue with a shaving blade and sand the finished deck. I would recommend adding a couple of coats of varnish and a fine sanding.. Remove the deck assembly - the substrate and planks - which is 1/16" thick, and fit to the ship. It may require some sanding around the edges
This takes some time and work, but it produces an authentic looking deck and is worth the extra effort!
Click to expand...
Thank you for your input, I looked into it and found the information helpful. The only thing I have to find out is how to incorporate this into my limited time, experience, and access to tools. It does look better, more realistic, and a notch above. I do have a question and you seem knowledgeable. Why are modelers soaking their planks in CA glue and then scrapping it off. Are not bare planks stained ideal? Please help me out.
 
Peter Gutterman said:
Walt,I am having difficulty envisioning the jigs and since everything proceeds from there, have you, perchance, photo documented this process?
I joggled the deck planks of a Baltimore Clipper that I built, starting with the center planks and working to the sides, alternating sides. I cut the plank tips to the proper shape to be let into the margin plank (already glued in place) traced off the plank tip pattern onto the margin plank and chopped out the part to receive the joggled tip of the plank. I first laid the whole plank in place and marked off where the ends crossed the margin plank and tapered the plank accordingly, before in laying the shaped plank tip. Worked pretty well. Fortunately, the hull was sufficiently symmetrical so that everything worked out pretty evenly.
I would like to try your method on my "Flying Cloud" model, since it has both forecastle and quarter decks. I'm thinking of presenting the model "dockyard" style.
Your method would greatly enhance the presentation since the focus is on the ship proper and not the rig.
I'll check out Edward Tosti's book on "young America' which, at present I seem to have misplaced which is pretty hard to do since it is a pretty big book!
Thanks for sharing all your knowledge and expertise! :D

Pete
Click to expand...
Pete, The "jig" was simply a piece of soft pine, which I carved ( and sanded a lot) so it duplicated the area on the ship where the deck would be placed. The outline of the sides, and the curvature of the beams beneath the deck were most important. This allowed me to use pins to hold the planks and paper in place while the epoxy set. Another step I forgot to mention was the simulation of the wooden pegs (treenails) used to hold the deck planks. I had a hypodermic needle in a Dremel tool and scored the planks . If you can give me your email address, I will send you a PDF of the 30 page book of my model of the Essex. This will show the deck configuration. WaltZ
 
Jampacv71 said:
Thank you for your input, I looked into it and found the information helpful. The only thing I have to find out is how to incorporate this into my limited time, experience, and access to tools. It does look better, more realistic, and a notch above. I do have a question and you seem knowledgeable. Why are modelers soaking their planks in CA glue and then scrapping it off. Are not bare planks stained ideal? Please help me out.
Click to expand...
I have no idea. The real planks on ships varied with the type, size, location, etc Some ships in some periods had teak decks, some pine, etc. The period I am most familiar with are English and American ships of the Continental and Federal navy. Oak was the wood of choice. After it was installed, it was caulked, and I do not know if anything else was applied. Most museum models I have seen have the natural wood decks. WaltZ
 
Walt Zimmerman said:
Pete, The "jig" was simply a piece of soft pine, which I carved ( and sanded a lot) so it duplicated the area on the ship where the deck would be placed. The outline of the sides, and the curvature of the beams beneath the deck were most important. This allowed me to use pins to hold the planks and paper in place while the epoxy set. Another step I forgot to mention was the simulation of the wooden pegs (treenails) used to hold the deck planks. I had a hypodermic needle in a Dremel tool and scored the planks . If you can give me your email address, I will send you a PDF of the 30 page book of my model of the Essex. This will show the deck configuration. WaltZ
Click to expand...
james.r.packer@gmail.com. Anything helps. got to raise up the younger builders right. I see the CV glue plaining in videos by Olha Batchvarov. Example video
 
Jampacv71 said:
james.r.packer@gmail.com. Anything helps. got to raise up the younger builders right. I see the CV glue plaining in videos by Olha Batchvarov. Example video
Click to expand...
Perhaps it makes the ship to look more weathered? Notice the seams and nail holes look darker. It definitely adds value (different shades of color used to help show contours and seams). I like the look, but it seems to be more work. But that's Olha. I'll never be in her league. I covered my Galilee boat in ca to strengthen it because it had a frameless hull. The amber shellac covered it well and no one could notice the glue.
 
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