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A Metalworkers Drum Sander.

  • Thread starter Thread starter johnv
  • Start date Start date
  • Watchers Watchers 4
Joined
May 30, 2024
Messages
171
Points
113

Location
Geelong, Australia
Hi All,
At the age of 75years, and being aware of deteriorating vision and other faculties, and having been involved with model ship building seriously for only a bit over one year, I have decided to have a go at making a scratch build model ship.
As you can see from my recently compiled list of other models below, I have made quite a few cannons, machines, and tools, and a lot of unlisted furniture, and building constructions, but my experience with wooden model ships is very limited.
So, I might be over ambitious tackling a scratch build of a 74 gun ship. But I have been encouraged to do so by a more experienced model ship building friend (SOS "chestcutter"), and other local modelers. I am yet to decide exactly which 74, but at present the decision lies between HMS Bellerophon, and the plans of Jean Boudriot's un-named French 74.

One aspect of a ship scratch build is the sawing, thicknessing and finishing of hull planks and decking planks. I have a good thicknesser and buzzer, but a sanding thicknesser appeared to be necessary in order to have available planks with thicknesses in the 0.5-2mm range.

I looked at all of the Google Images of modelers drum sanding thicknessers, as well as those in SOS. With my experience in metal working I decided to make the machine in metal, specifically aluminium. The finished machine is in the photos.
Initially I planned to incorporate powered feed rollers and I showed some plans to my model engineering club. As well as multiple photographs of other peoples machines. One older member suggested that I use a simpler design, so that is what I did.

Most ship modelers drum sanders are in the power range of about 150 watts, but I actually chose a 750 watt AC servo motor (almost 1 HP), thinking that the extra power and size might be useful for furniture making projects as well. The motor and controller was purchased on Ebay Au, for $AUD160, and included a speed and direction controller, soft start, and all connectors, plug, RPM display in a very neat package. (see photo). All other materials in the build came from my workshop supplies, including sheet and bar aluminium, bearings, all thread and fasteners. So the total cost for me was $AUD160, plus 3 or 4 workshop sessions of 4-6 hours each.
I do have plans to change the height settings with a more elegant solution than the pair of M4 thumb scews.

The photos show the finished machine. I will add plans to this post if there are any requests.
photo 1 was the inspiration for my machine. With thanks and compliments to the designer of that machine.
photo 2 is the motor and controller.
photo 3 is my almost finished version. Note the acrylic top
photo 4 is thicknessing a 44mm wide piece of Tasmanian Huon pine. The 1hp motor copes with ease, but the 240grit paper is too fine for thicknessing. At that stage I had not installed the transparent top.
photo 5 is a duplicate. I cant see how to delete it.
photo 6 shows the countersunk screws which hold the strip sandpaper ends. The method seems to work well.
photo 7 is a closeup of the finished surface. Pretty good!

hog_w_o_motor_1.jpg

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IMG_6399.jpg

IMG_6396.jpg

IMG_6399.jpg

IMG_6400.jpg

IMG_6401.jpg
 
Just a p.s. I felt that the M4 thumbscrews which adjust the platten height looked a bit daggy, so I designed and made a better one.
photo 1 the side elevation dwg.
photo 2,3 the finished and installed mechanism.
Each turn of the big brass adjusts the platten height by 1-2mm.simplified diag.pngIMG_6405.jpgIMG_6405.jpgIMG_6406.jpg
 
Hi All,
At the age of 75years, and being aware of deteriorating vision and other faculties, and having been involved with model ship building seriously for only a bit over one year, I have decided to have a go at making a scratch build model ship.
As you can see from my recently compiled list of other models below, I have made quite a few cannons, machines, and tools, and a lot of unlisted furniture, and building constructions, but my experience with wooden model ships is very limited.
So, I might be over ambitious tackling a scratch build of a 74 gun ship. But I have been encouraged to do so by a more experienced model ship building friend (SOS "chestcutter"), and other local modelers. I am yet to decide exactly which 74, but at present the decision lies between HMS Bellerophon, and the plans of Jean Boudriot's un-named French 74.

One aspect of a ship scratch build is the sawing, thicknessing and finishing of hull planks and decking planks. I have a good thicknesser and buzzer, but a sanding thicknesser appeared to be necessary in order to have available planks with thicknesses in the 0.5-2mm range.

I looked at all of the Google Images of modelers drum sanding thicknessers, as well as those in SOS. With my experience in metal working I decided to make the machine in metal, specifically aluminium. The finished machine is in the photos.
Initially I planned to incorporate powered feed rollers and I showed some plans to my model engineering club. As well as multiple photographs of other peoples machines. One older member suggested that I use a simpler design, so that is what I did.

Most ship modelers drum sanders are in the power range of about 150 watts, but I actually chose a 750 watt AC servo motor (almost 1 HP), thinking that the extra power and size might be useful for furniture making projects as well. The motor and controller was purchased on Ebay Au, for $AUD160, and included a speed and direction controller, soft start, and all connectors, plug, RPM display in a very neat package. (see photo). All other materials in the build came from my workshop supplies, including sheet and bar aluminium, bearings, all thread and fasteners. So the total cost for me was $AUD160, plus 3 or 4 workshop sessions of 4-6 hours each.
I do have plans to change the height settings with a more elegant solution than the pair of M4 thumb scews.

The photos show the finished machine. I will add plans to this post if there are any requests.
photo 1 was the inspiration for my machine. With thanks and compliments to the designer of that machine.
photo 2 is the motor and controller.
photo 3 is my almost finished version. Note the acrylic top
photo 4 is thicknessing a 44mm wide piece of Tasmanian Huon pine. The 1hp motor copes with ease, but the 240grit paper is too fine for thicknessing. At that stage I had not installed the transparent top.
photo 5 is a duplicate. I cant see how to delete it.
photo 6 shows the countersunk screws which hold the strip sandpaper ends. The method seems to work well.
photo 7 is a closeup of the finished surface. Pretty good!

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I love it. I built one powered by a power drill but it is very finicky and I don't use it much. I tend to use mini planes and hand sanders on most small parts.

As a first time scratch builder (that is, no prior ship building experience) I encourage you to just launch in. If you have the skills (which you have) it will come naturally after a while and you can rely on this forum to answer any and every question you may have.

My Medea is far from perfect but gives me great satisfaction and at 79 I don't intend doing any more after this one (6 years so far).

Good luck and I will follow your progress.
 
Just a p.s. I felt that the M4 thumbscrews which adjust the platten height looked a bit daggy, so I designed and made a better one.
photo 1 the side elevation dwg.
photo 2,3 the finished and installed mechanism.
Each turn of the big brass adjusts the platten height by 1-2mm.View attachment 549681View attachment 549682View attachment 549682View attachment 549683
Hi John,
Just one question. Did you notice any flexing in the adjustment plate, or even still slight vibration, as each side does not have support?
Obviously, you are building this one as too costly anywhere else. What I mean is only the Postage concerns, no doubt.
I am thinking of doing the same as you, but using my homemade wood lathe to mount it too, and also driven by the Lathe chuck. Easy peasy
 
Hi John,
Just one question. Did you notice any flexing in the adjustment plate, or even still slight vibration, as each side does not have support?
Obviously, you are building this one as too costly anywhere else. What I mean is only the Postage concerns, no doubt.
I am thinking of doing the same as you, but using my homemade wood lathe to mount it too, and also driven by the Lathe chuck. Easy peasy
Hi Gary, no flexing at all in the 6mm thick alu plate, and no detectable vibration. The almost perfect surface in the thicknessed wood is best point of assessment. The only cost to me was the motor and controller, because everything else was found in my workshop. And the pleasure of making my own tools was the main motive, with cost saving a secondary gain. John
 
Hi Gary, no flexing at all in the 6mm thick alu plate, and no detectable vibration. The almost perfect surface in the thicknessed wood is best point of assessment. The only cost to me was the motor and controller, because everything else was found in my workshop. And the pleasure of making my own tools was the main motive, with cost saving a secondary gain. John
I guess all I have to look for is the Aluminium. Thanks for sharing your build.
I live in WA, and in my Area (supposedly called a city), we have areas that sell aluminum, and no doubt 6mm and more. However, they won't sell a small piece to meet my demands, but only half a sheet, which is ridiculous, cost-wise.
I think in about a 4-square-kilometer area, we have 6 stores that cater to the building industry, ie, power saw, hand drill type gear. We have only one hobby shop which carries a lot, a lot of nothing really, but that is a little harsh when we come down to hobby machinery, so we have to go online and take the risk.
You may be able to help me, depending on where you are. We do not have a shop in WA that caters to model makers' tools and machinery, so where about is there a serious shop that caters seriously for us model makers, in the way of machinery, doing model ships etc in wood in Australia?
 
plans of Jean Boudriot's un-named French 74
The plans are for the Jacques Noel Sane' designed Temeraire class of 74 gun ships. It is probably unnamed because there are 120 names it could have. AAMM has a monograph for Superbe 74 1785 @ 1:75. It was one of the first in the class.
 
I guess all I have to look for is the Aluminium. Thanks for sharing your build.
I live in WA, and in my Area (supposedly called a city), we have areas that sell aluminum, and no doubt 6mm and more. However, they won't sell a small piece to meet my demands, but only half a sheet, which is ridiculous, cost-wise.
I think in about a 4-square-kilometer area, we have 6 stores that cater to the building industry, ie, power saw, hand drill type gear. We have only one hobby shop which carries a lot, a lot of nothing really, but that is a little harsh when we come down to hobby machinery, so we have to go online and take the risk.
You may be able to help me, depending on where you are. We do not have a shop in WA that caters to model makers' tools and machinery, so where about is there a serious shop that caters seriously for us model makers, in the way of machinery, doing model ships etc in wood in Australia?
Gary, I live in Geelong Victoria, which has 2 aluminium suppliers. When I buy aluminium I usually get more than I need, and I hoard the leftover bits for little jobs such as this. I buy bar eg 150x16mm or 6x200mm wherever possible. I also watch the online sellers and auctions for alu, brass, bronze. I am happy to try cheap chinese tools, and often they are quite good, but my ship modelling so far has not justified Byrne machines. Proxxon (German) are pretty good but midrange price.
 
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