The "wings" form the side walls to the powder room and the filling room. They are constructed by fabricating stanchions known as "watercourse chocks" which are then planked over. They arise from the deck at a 45 degree angle and angled 10 degrees from the centerline of the ship. These wings will be the toughest part of this build by far. They are topped with the perforated board, and from there the sidewalls go straight up. The first picture shows a plan view and longitudinal view of the chocks. The second photo is cross sections of the wing at a few levels. The last photo is some blanks, cut at 45 degrees and 10 degrees to form the compound angle. Next up it to build a jig so I can uniformly cut the top of the watercourse chocks correctly.
Glad to see you doing this quite some time ago there was an auction at the MSB site where Dave Stevens from the Lumberyard donated 4 kits to the site I got one of them and started the model(the kit is what I like to call a semi-scratch build with some items lasser cut and most of the balance you he to scratch build, I got the watercross chocks done OK, my problem was the perforated board construction, did it 3 times just flat out bad both interior and back I still have the model unfinished, I will post a picture of where I am at, as you are doing this and I admire your work greatly,I take it apart for the 4th TIME and follow your progress to see how you do the perforated board, one of my problems was the stain I used a Min-Wax penetrating stain that did not penertrarate, I now use Min-Wax Gel Stain works much better, the only problem I have with it is for some reason I can not do it with a brush as is sometimes neccessary I use a rag to apply it the results is in my Gunboat Philadelphia build, looking foreward to both your builds( the Blanford and this one, maybe I can get better as I do more builds. Don
I drew lines on the deck depicting the inboard location of the watercourse chocks. As you can see from photo #1, in the aft most position there is little deck surface for the chocks to grab when glued in place (see arrows). I decided to add a "toe board" of box wood to make assembly and gluing easier. Photo #2 shows the wing assembly under construction.
Glad if I can help, Don. I thought a long time about how to do this. The biggest problem is that the perforated board is straight and level, but crosses 2 different deck heights, with different watercourse chock heights for each. On my model the difference in height is 7/16". I'll post more soon.