For my 5.5 inch .280 bore the .270 spit wadded shot works at better accuracy that I anticipated. I just have to learn the range/elevation combinations. Rich
Managed to get a tiny block made, took alot of doing lots of frustration figuring out how to hold it without damaging it so it could be shaped and I still don't like the result. This one from a tiny wood dowel. Will try again with a different method. Decided to work on the actual ship to relieve some stress. put the inner wall planking in the gun deck area, edge glued only so I can remove them to reinforce the areas that eyebolts will be in for the cannons. I try not to put eyebolts into single thin wood areas if I can help it. Sure as sun sets every evening one will pull out in a difficult area to get to, so I give them as much glue surface as I can get and I rough the shift alittle with a file to get extra gripping power.
I will remove that planking section when it's dry and sand it smooth and lay out the individual planks. I prefer running full length then cut in butt joints with a #11 blade. for me it's just easier then cutting a ton of plank pieces especially when planking curved sections since small planking lengths don't like to bend on edge to conform to curves. This build is going really slow not alot of energy in me yet but it's getting better. By now I'd have all the decks planked and on the model and be doing hull planking. I am working on better fitment of parts on this build so I'm sure thats accountable for some of the slow pace.
I will remove that planking section when it's dry and sand it smooth and lay out the individual planks. I prefer running full length then cut in butt joints with a #11 blade. for me it's just easier then cutting a ton of plank pieces especially when planking curved sections since small planking lengths don't like to bend on edge to conform to curves. This build is going really slow not alot of energy in me yet but it's getting better. By now I'd have all the decks planked and on the model and be doing hull planking. I am working on better fitment of parts on this build so I'm sure thats accountable for some of the slow pace.
Possibly slow progress, but looking good. I like the idea of roughing up the shaft of an eyebolt to increase the holding power of glue.
I appreciate the effort that you took with your 2mm single block . . even to the extent of two holes simulating the sheave inside the block. Better than store bought blocks with only one hole and the stropping grove around an almost square block that would need rounding off. I have been on that tack too many times in my first French cannon on gun station kit and later pilot boat build. That pilot boat was a stamped deck to be placed on the carved wood hull. Is that what is called a "bread and butter" style? Don't worry about your pace of work as your satisfaction, setting aside frustrations, is the main goal . . . at least in my mind. Rich (PT-2)
TY for the kind words. I am going to order a good magnifier I'm using a head mounted one and the parts have to be within a couple inches of the lens I need a base mounted type. I think if I use the Milling machine I could probably produce something nicer with an actual working sheave I may give that a shot I have some tiny end mills down to .5mm stepping up in half size to 6mm will need to use the collet system for those to chuck them up. I do have a CNC router as well as a laser cutter/engraver, but I would really like to make them by hand. I would have to draw up files in CAD, its been a minute since I've used CAD so I'm sure there is much I don't remember. I don't really have the drive to sit in front of the computer to draw this stuff up. I'll figure it out with frustration and swear words but I will figure it out.
I have been trying to figure out how to construct single and double sheaves with a smoothly rolling sheave for my blackpowder cannon and then fire it from a gundeck station which needs to be long enough for leveling (firing accuracy) and swiveling for windage aiming. A hit and miss or trial and error method of doing those tackles and connections will likely come about through several rounds of firing results with the recoil control between the hawser and outhaul tackle. All in our DYI blood/mental nature.
Rich
Had at it again on the tiny blocks this time using a different method for holding them. Much better result but still not looking the way I want in shape. 
I really can't wait to get the new magnifying lamp so I can see exactly what material I need to remove and where.
I really can't wait to get the new magnifying lamp so I can see exactly what material I need to remove and where.
Those wouldn't be hard considering the larger scale I just spend the past 45 min constructing this one was pretty simple I took pictures through the whole process and will upload them here on the site in a different section which I will link to you when completeI have been trying to figure out how to construct single and double sheaves with a smoothly rolling sheave for my blackpowder cannon and then fire it from a gundeck station which needs to be long enough for leveling (firing accuracy) and swiveling for windage aiming. A hit and miss or trial and error method of doing those tackles and connections will likely come about through several rounds of firing results with the recoil control between the hawser and outhaul tackle. All in our DYI blood/mental nature.
I show it strapped here but it can also be stropped easily. Hope this helps and yes it is a working block sheave rolls with the line very easily and with very little tension on the line. I'll be making these for the constellation build here in various sizes as required.
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Oh my, that is really nice and shows me to get off the dime (Bluenose) and try to make a few for my cannon. Where did you get the sheave? I may have seen some but can;'t rember the catalog or source. RIch (PT-2)
I made it on the lathe awhile back made a bunch in different sizes here is the link to the how too https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/threads/making-realistic-working-rigging-blocks.6379/
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I should comment the Constellation is not a sister ship to the CONSTITUTION...two different sized ships and designs...in fact, the Constellation you are referring to was built in 1853...there is much controversy on whether the ship was totally rebuilt rather than having enough original timber to be considered from the original. You might want to Google her to find many articles about this issue.
The stern configuration of Constellation is consistent with designs from the 1850's whereas CONSTITUTION has a flatter stern from 1797.
I wasn't referring to the slope I know that its not the frigate that was the first constellation. however its is said the Frigate constellation and constitution are sister ships they are referenced that way here in Baltimore where constellation is docked and where I live, please se this site https://www.thefreelibrary.com/Sist... six,direct response to the Naval Act of 1794.
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Good
Good day, and thus is an outstanding build of this kit. I still must disagree on the "sister ship" status...the 44 gun heavyfrigates who WERE sisters, i.e. based upon the same design draughts of Humpreys, included only UNITED STAES, PRESIDENT and CONSTITUTION...the other frigates built under the Navy Act of 1794 were based upon different design draughts for smaller frigates, including CONSTELLATION. To suggest, as that web link does, that all ships built under the Navy Act of 1794 are "sister ships " is a misuse of that term. For example, all aircraft carriers built based on the Essex class plans are sister ships, not all such craft built pursuant to the legislation to build carriers are sister ships...that term is design specific. In any event, none of this takes away from your beautiful build, it's just a pet peeve of mine to note the loose use of "sister ships " when talking about our first frigates, when, if fact Humpreys provided different design draughts for different frigate proposals pursuant to that act.
Cheers,
Jim
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You might find this article of some interest on this point:
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Original six frigates of the United States Navy - Wikipedia
I think the reason for sister ship status is that the 6 frigates were ordered built at the same time under the same act from a single designer. Any ship built after that is certainly not a sister ship to those 6.
I have done some exhaustive research on constellation. I own every book written on that vessel that I could find and I have several of the dairies and journals of its sailors. Pulled every image I could find from the web including the model builds as well. I've grouped the images and information from the net into separate folders based on the phases that ship has gone through over the years. I have the article you posted linked in a folder as well.
I continue to look for more information pouring over pages on the net hoping to find something new that will point me to its original design. Its a fabled unicorn spoken of but never seen. I even went as far as to try and trace down Mr. Humphreys family in the hopes of finding a living relative who may have something stashed away perhaps in satchel, folder, plans tube or even pressed in the pages of a book.
I'd probably be better off choosing a vessel with a set of plans that are accurate and well documented, but I like hard. I'm the type of person who would rather put boots on the ground over unforgiving terrain then fly over it. I plan to build the Constitution as the 1812 version. In the event I don't get the chance I'll have the information for my Grandson to build it as he's taken a fancy to building ships. And is building his first POB right now. The Constellation I'm currently building will mostly follow the plans per the kit. While making the elements such as fittings all in an attempt to better my skills. Was good chatting with you sir.
I have done some exhaustive research on constellation. I own every book written on that vessel that I could find and I have several of the dairies and journals of its sailors. Pulled every image I could find from the web including the model builds as well. I've grouped the images and information from the net into separate folders based on the phases that ship has gone through over the years. I have the article you posted linked in a folder as well.
I continue to look for more information pouring over pages on the net hoping to find something new that will point me to its original design. Its a fabled unicorn spoken of but never seen. I even went as far as to try and trace down Mr. Humphreys family in the hopes of finding a living relative who may have something stashed away perhaps in satchel, folder, plans tube or even pressed in the pages of a book.
I'd probably be better off choosing a vessel with a set of plans that are accurate and well documented, but I like hard. I'm the type of person who would rather put boots on the ground over unforgiving terrain then fly over it. I plan to build the Constitution as the 1812 version. In the event I don't get the chance I'll have the information for my Grandson to build it as he's taken a fancy to building ships. And is building his first POB right now. The Constellation I'm currently building will mostly follow the plans per the kit. While making the elements such as fittings all in an attempt to better my skills. Was good chatting with you sir.
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Your research is admirable and something I try to do, not just to disclose details to incorporate into the build but also to get a better understanding of the actual vessel's history...part of my joy of modeling. I am looking forward to your further progress and will you the very best!!
One source of research for CONSTITUTION is the hull model, showing not only construction details but also some information on the rigging from that point in her history.
A distinct pleasure chatting with you!!
Jim
From the research conversation back and forth it is evident that we have some serious scholar/builders in SoS. I think that is a good course and tack to follow with the winds of patient endurance for the long haul. Rich (PT-2)
I got the inner walls planked removed them smoothed them over and notched them for the gangway that installs between the for and aft decks. I pulled the assembly off the build board and checked the straightness of the false keel sure enough per every AL kit I've ever built it had a warp in the false keep aprox 1/4" deflection through the center area of the false keel. I made up a new build stand using stainless angles and a smaller base so I can move it around on the bench. While I was putting the base together I reverse bent the keel and clamped it in place on a length of steel square stock I had in the metal shop and left it overnight. Next day it was straight and true.
Got her mounted to the new build board rechecked my bulkheads to the false keel to make sure all was still square, they were. I marked the for and aft decks down the center. got them in the proper alignment and tacked them to the bulkheads to help stiffen the assembly up for the fairing process. I fit in the gangways and tacked them down as well as clamped. I will install some filler blocks next and start the fairing process.
Got some meat to remove on the bow and stern bulkheads. Got my new magnifying lamp and mounted it WOW what a difference and with a headset on to boost it I can see amazing things
Should be back at it on Friday I'm off work so I have the whole day to sand till my arms fall off.
Got her mounted to the new build board rechecked my bulkheads to the false keel to make sure all was still square, they were. I marked the for and aft decks down the center. got them in the proper alignment and tacked them to the bulkheads to help stiffen the assembly up for the fairing process. I fit in the gangways and tacked them down as well as clamped. I will install some filler blocks next and start the fairing process.
Got some meat to remove on the bow and stern bulkheads. Got my new magnifying lamp and mounted it WOW what a difference and with a headset on to boost it I can see amazing things
Should be back at it on Friday I'm off work so I have the whole day to sand till my arms fall off.