Albatros by Occre - First build

Hello and welcome to SoS!

Occre's Albatros was my first build. Occre produces models with a quality somewhere in the middle of the curve. Their customer service is excellent, but their instructions are not so much. So it's no surprise to have builders ask questions, and here at SoS, questions get answered very quickly. Working on your Albatros will introduce you to many of the basic tasks you will use for the remainder of your modeling career. Learning the correct way to do them now will save you a lot of frustration in the future and make the hobby that much more enjoyable.

How or what method one uses to bend planks is one thing, retail plank benders, your Grandma's old clothes iron, steam, etc. and a topic all its own.

When is comes to fundamentals of planking, I second Allan's post. Chuck Passaro's planking videos demonstrate a very simple, yet exact way of planking model ships. It is one of many methods, but my choice. I believe he uses Alaskan Yellow Cedar quite a bit, which is soft, bends easily, but no more than the Lime wood/Basswood, which is what you're planking with, is just as easy, if not a little easier. So that helps a lot when one is first learning the task of planking.

One other note I feel is important to share. Every step in building a ship is important as a mistake made early in the build will most likely show up later. This is most important when is comes to planking. Your Albatros' construction requires 2 planking layers, which is not how actual ships construct their hulls, but some model ship manufacturers choose to do. The first layer of planking, Basswood/Lime wood, is laid, they covered with a veneer of Sapele/Sapele. If your first layer has imperfections, bumps or depressions, it will most definitely show in the final layer. As boring as some tasks are, it's so important to take the time to get it right. Many mistakes can be rectified later, but irregular hulls are almost impossible to fix without removing the work already done.

Planking, whether on frames or bulkheads, the easiest area, which you most likely discovered already, is amidship or approximately the middle 3rd of the ship's hull. This is the area where the planks lay relatively flat. But, as planks get closer to each end of the ship's hull, bow and stern, they are required to bend in two directions, and this is where some tutorials will address how to overcome this challenge. I find Chuck's tutorial concise and imparts the logic that left me understanding not just the "what" and "how" to do it a certain way, but most importantly, to me, at least, the "why".

I'm leaping here, but having recently retired as a PD Lt., I'm sure you're familiar with problem solving. If you were looking to leave that part of your life behind, you chose the wrong hobby. ROTF But if you're like me, problem-solving was a driving reason I took up the hobby. Exercising our brains keeps us sharp.

Welcome aboard, again. Ask all the questions you have. There is no daily limit. :);)

And thank you for your service!
 
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Hi, fellas. Thanks for having me. I’ve always wanted to build wood 18th century war ships. I just retired so now I have the time to invest in a hobby. For my first ship I chose OcCre’s Albatros. I chose this model as it seemed like a good kit to learn the skills I’m going to need. My goal is to eventually build a museum quality ship of the line. We’ll have to see how steep the learning curve is before I can build something as complicated as that.

I’ve just started the planking. The first plank was inadvertently placed too low. When I plank the starboard side I’ll make a better effort to place the first plank in the middle. The instructions showed planking from the middle up, but I was concerned about the top planks being at an angle, so after that first plank was placed I started planking from the top down. On the second planking I’ll place a plank on the port side then one at the same location of the starboard side. I wanted to plank the port side first then the starboard side on the first planking to use it as a learning tool. As you can see the planks look a little ‘wavy’ toward the bow (prow?). On my next model I’ll pay more attention to the bulkheads.

Any advice or criticism is welcome.

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I haven't had a full read of the comments but I see a lot of general planking advice. First, be aware that instructions are not necesarily the best thing to follow. On the next build you'll be able to dispense with the basics. And nor are they reliable or appropriate. ie., that plank in the centre is completely unnecessary and will only get in your way. Did they even tell you ways of bending a plank??
Another thing that you'll find is one small mistake in the early stages will bite you very hard later!! Precision is paramount.
(Artesania are not a high quality producer, like most at these price points they're good enough to cut your teeth on. I'm not impressed with the page of instructions photographed!!)
To give a practical opinion, I would remove the planks laid (hot water), fair the hull properly, Soak your planks a couple at a time, and either bend the planks or fix them while they are damp and flexible. They can be set to a proper bend by clamping them to the hull to set. Because you are not going to cover the angled lay of your planks.
This kit shows a simplified method of planking, to do this correctly involves tapering and bending each plank (as in Chuck's video above) But that's for later! Hopefully your nex build!
 
I believe he uses Alaskan Yellow Cedar quite a bit,
Chuck is a fan of this wood which is really quite nice and not so expensive as some other species. That said his methods are not at all limited to soft species. I mostly use Castello and Swiss pear and find his methods for edge bending this wood extremely easy as well, so no need to settle for soft wood species. Castello has a Janka hardness rating of 1819 lbf compared to Alaskan Cedar at 580 yet is easy to soak, edge bend, and heat.
Allan
 
Chuck is a fan of this wood which is really quite nice and not so expensive as some other species. That said his methods are not at all limited to soft species. I mostly use Castello and Swiss pear and find his methods for edge bending this wood extremely easy as well, so no need to settle for soft wood species. Castello has a Janka hardness rating of 1819 lbf compared to Alaskan Cedar at 580 yet is easy to soak, edge bend, and heat.
Allan
Cheerful is almost all yellow cedar I think. I use it for decks because of the nice linear grain. The grain on red cedar is more pronounced but usually wider spaced lines. Only really of use in larger scales.
 
I have a different question;
It's time to start a second ship build, I really like the looks, historical significance and I have it in my stock, the Model Shipways Niagara.
Now, how old of a kit design is it, what is the frustration level I should expect?? I know that's personal...
I was also thinking of the MS Bluenose or my YQ Bluenose..
Maybe my 18th century launch....
MS stagecoach....
MS beer wagon...
Arrrhgg...
 
Thanks for all of the advice, fellas.

Hoss - after spending the last few years identifying decades old homicide suspects I’m kinda looking forward to a week of sanding and watching reruns of Hill Street Blues . Funny you should mention bending planks. I used my wife’s steam iron to bend the bulwarks. It worked okay, but I decided that wasn’t going to be an option long term, so I got a retail plank bender.

Bob - I’m not impressed with the instructions either. I learned some things with the first planking and I won’t be using the instructions for the second planking. Hopefully it’ll go well and I’ll have a decent looking Schooner when I’m finished.

New question - do you guys place the false keel before or after you do second planking? My thought is to do the second planking first and sand down the strakes to fit the false keel after.
 
Hey Leutenant,

nice to have you here. If I may be so bold, I would like to say that planking from the center only brings disadvantages. It can happen that the planks run together and you then have to shorten them or even patch them in small pieces. The result then looks really bad. However, if you want to do the planking twice, the first planking should be constructed in such a way that you have an optimum contact surface for the second planking. This has the advantage that you can mark out the planking courses, making the second planking worth seeing and, of course, easier to install. I would never lay the second planking in your planking section in the operating instructions. You would be annoyed for the working time you spent on this.

Best regards
Günther Ship-1
 
78 is something like a skylight, dont know the correct english term, it let light into the boat and I would add a bit of transparent plastic.
The small ribs protect the windowglass.

 
PD Lieutenant, welcome to the forum and like me you posted your pics of your build so far, I showed a few more close up pics of my first planking which led to lots of helpful advice including videos. Hopefully you have read them all and watched the recommended videos as I did.
As you have been advised don’t be in a hurry, take your time.
I followed religiously OcCre,s build plans, but would change things now I have a bit more experience.
As others have said you need to get the first planking right as your errors will show up on the second planking.
Based on advice I removed part of my first planking as it was wrong, had to buy more planks. I then replanked the errors and continued and the end result was pleasing.
Good luck and keep us posted
 
Based on advice I removed part of my first planking as it was wrong, had to buy more planks. I then replanked the errors and continued and the end result was pleasing.
Good for you to take the time and make the effort to get things right. Yours is great advice to others as do-overs are not uncommon on models from the first one to the 25th one. We get better as we gain experience but we also often get more critical of our own work which is a good thing.
Allan
 
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I have the second planking done. I started planking at the top of the bulwarks and worked down to the keel. As you can see not all of them lay flush against the hull. I suspect this is because I sanded horizontally and didn’t spend any time sanding vertically. This is a good lesson for my next build. The planks were very dry and brittle and soaking them didn’t help. Maybe it was just a batch of planks (sapelli) that are old. Now onto installing the keel and finishing the hull with sapelli dye and varnish.

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Did you glue wet planks to the model? If so that may have caused cupping as the planks dried on their outsides first, lifting the edges away from the hull.
I didn’t glue the planks onto the hull while they were wet. I soaked some of them just to see if they’d become less brittle and prone to breaking - which they didn’t. The planking tended to chip and break while trying to cut it - and I was using a fresh x-acto blade. I think I got a batch of old dried out planking. At least, I hope that’s the issue with this model. Beyond the brittle planks, I think the problem was my failure to sand it vertically - that’s the only thing I can think of, but this is my first wooden ship model, so I welcome any thoughts as to the issue with this.

I was disappointed with how the second planking turned out, but I bought this one to learn on and build my skills, so I’ll keep plugging on with the build and learn my lessons along the way. One day I’ll have the skills to build a large museum quality ship of the line.

Attached is a picture of the chipping I was talking about.

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Watch Olha's video a few more times and you'll see that you don't need edge bending. You can also see why she fills in between the frames to be able to attach the second layer. Occre's wood for the second layer is probably always the same, so if you don't use Olha's technology, you have to replace it with another type of wood that allows edge bending or that you cut the plank out of wider strips.
It is absolutely possible to get a nice hull with Occre wood but it requires the right technique and so practice.
Your first hull looks much better than my first, you are on the right track.
 
Watch Olha's video a few more times and you'll see that you don't need edge bending. You can also see why she fills in between the frames to be able to attach the second layer. Occre's wood for the second layer is probably always the same, so if you don't use Olha's technology, you have to replace it with another type of wood that allows edge bending or that you cut the plank out of wider strips.
It is absolutely possible to get a nice hull with Occre wood but it requires the right technique and so practice.
Your first hull looks much better than my first, you are on the right track.
Thanks for the reply. What do you mean by ‘edge bending’? I cut the end of my planks to fit the keel. I’ll take another look at that video
 
Thanks for the reply. What do you mean by ‘edge bending’? I cut the end of my planks to fit the keel. I’ll take another look at that video.
 
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