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- Jul 6, 2020
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- 19
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- 48
Whew, thanks! I greatly appreciate your advice...I’ve been bending the planks more than fairing-thinking that’s where I’ve gone wrong. I’d like to develop some good habits early in this process.If this is your first time, you are doing very well. You face the same challenge as everyone. Curious what ship this is? It has a rather bluff bow and these can be the most difficult to plank. The reason for the stair-stepped, clinker nature of the planks towards the front is because you need to spend more time fairing/sanding the bulkheads and bow support piece so the planks can bend and run flat/true against them. Always lay a test plank before gluing... if the plank does not fit perfectly flat against the bulkhead, you need more fairing. Since this is only the first layer, you can continue as you are and then use filler at the end and sand it smooth. The second layer of planking will be easier.
See this post where I did my Bluenose many years ago. It has a good photo that may help. Good luck.
Bluenose Build Log
I happen to have an archival copy of my original Bluenose build log from the old Lauck Street forum. Although I built this a few years ago, all the tips and techniques described in this log will still work on the current Bluenose kit from Model Expo along with Bob Hunt's excellent practicum. I...shipsofscale.com
Ok, will do. Thanks!You should probably also put more taper into the forward end of the planks. This should be shown in the plans depending on what kit you are building...
You will get different opinions on that question. I look at it from a practical sense... You are double-planking this model. The only purpose of the first layer is to provide a smooth and properly shaped surface to apply the second layer. Stealers are not necessarily needed for the first layer... just get it planked, closed up, coat it with wood filler and sand it out smooth. Save the stealers and fancy planks for the outer layer!!When do I begin considering stealers, etc?
Thanks! That makes a lot of sense.You will get different opinions on that question. I look at it from a practical sense... You are double-planking this model. The only purpose of the first layer is to provide a smooth and properly shaped surface to apply the second layer. Stealers are not necessarily needed for the first layer... just get it planked, closed up, coat it with wood filler and sand it out smooth. Save the stealers and fancy planks for the outer layer!!
Others may tell you different as there are probably 5 answers for every question and all of them are correct!!
Sail on..
That Bluenose build is incredible!If this is your first time, you are doing very well. You face the same challenge as everyone. Curious what ship this is? It has a rather bluff bow and these can be the most difficult to plank. The reason for the stair-stepped, clinker nature of the planks towards the front is because you need to spend more time fairing/sanding the bulkheads and bow support piece so the planks can bend and run flat/true against them. Always lay a test plank before gluing... if the plank does not fit perfectly flat against the bulkhead, you need more fairing. Since this is only the first layer, you can continue as you are and then use filler at the end and sand it smooth. The second layer of planking will be easier.
See this post where I did my Bluenose many years ago. It has a good photo that may help. Good luck.
Bluenose Build Log
I happen to have an archival copy of my original Bluenose build log from the old Lauck Street forum. Although I built this a few years ago, all the tips and techniques described in this log will still work on the current Bluenose kit from Model Expo along with Bob Hunt's excellent practicum. I...shipsofscale.com
Thank you- much to learn here...If you can research any good photos of the real ship or drawings of lower hull line, they may show you how and where stealers and other fancy planking options are used. Mostly they show how many narrow planks in bow and how wide the stern may be.