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Fantastic, extraordinary, outstanding ... I don't know which words describe your build correctly
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BALDER, Vlaardingen Herring Lugger from 1912, scratch build scale 1:50 Plate-On-Frame
- Thread starter Peter Voogt
- Start date
- Watchers 73
Amazing metal work Peter, and that without any etching involved.
Thanks, Christian. Just some time, patience, adjust the plans and on time a re-do, thinking out-of-the box’ etc. etc.
Thanks, Maarten. I've collected a lot over the past 40 years. You never know.
(Not the opinion of my Admiral 
) With some new small parts, and then it turns out fine again with old-fashioned craftsmanship.Regards, Peter
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2021
- Messages
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Another one who is trying to fake us with a photo of the original .... no no no sir!
:-D
:-D
Excellent craftsmanship Peter. It’s amazing what you fabricate from scratch.
In my enthusiasm while building both stay blocks, I forgot that there was an eye on the lower block on the 2nd cheek from port. The fixed end of the tackle is secured to this with an eye splice with a metal eye.
Placed this on the block:
And the end of the tackle with the eye attached to it.
I provided the lowering tackle with sufficient length and then lowered the mast:
I had already mentioned: "The mast was lowered by wrapping the rope or cable around the capstan and letting it slip."
1: On the lower block, the running end runs from top to bottom over the 4th sheave on the starboard side. With the mast standing, this end is then secured to the ‘klapmuts’ on the inside of the bow.
2: The cable is guided over a sheave at the bottom of the cleat on the starboard side of the mast step.
3: Then through the guide rollers, the top roller of which can be removed from a lock.
4: Next, at least 4 turns around the steam spindle.
5: For safety, the end is routed around the metal bollard on the port side.
On the foredeck:
The cable runs (almost) precisely along and between all objects on the foredeck to the pulley on the underside of the cleat next to the mast casing.
Between the guide rollers, around the spindle and to the bollard.
Regards, Peter
Placed this on the block:
And the end of the tackle with the eye attached to it.
I provided the lowering tackle with sufficient length and then lowered the mast:
I had already mentioned: "The mast was lowered by wrapping the rope or cable around the capstan and letting it slip."
1: On the lower block, the running end runs from top to bottom over the 4th sheave on the starboard side. With the mast standing, this end is then secured to the ‘klapmuts’ on the inside of the bow.
2: The cable is guided over a sheave at the bottom of the cleat on the starboard side of the mast step.
3: Then through the guide rollers, the top roller of which can be removed from a lock.
4: Next, at least 4 turns around the steam spindle.
5: For safety, the end is routed around the metal bollard on the port side.
On the foredeck:
The cable runs (almost) precisely along and between all objects on the foredeck to the pulley on the underside of the cleat next to the mast casing.
Between the guide rollers, around the spindle and to the bollard.
Regards, Peter
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Thanks, Dean. I must say that I surprise myself also from time to time as well.
To solve a brain teaser again.Regards, Peter
You are in your element Peter....
True story
Just WOW and what they all say. Respect Peter.
That's for sure, Grant. Feeling how she reacts on the small movements of the tiller is amazing. But on tight corners, it is just as hard working.
Thanks for this, Grant.
Regards, Peter
Wow, i have caught up on your latest additions to your Balder awaiting our return flight home. Exquisite work.
Thanks, Herman. Also for the likes. Hopefully your flight was not delayed?
Regards, Peter
No significant delays, home again. Back to work tomorrow.Thanks, Herman. Also for the likes. Hopefully your flight was not delayed?
Regards, Peter
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2026
- Messages
- 3
- Points
- 3
Well… hmmm. Words fail me… WOW indeed! Peter, I just spent the better part of the last week reading through your entire build log. What an epic build - this has got to be one of the most enjoyable scratch-building works I’ve seen in quite some time. Your attention to detail and mastery of the craft is exemplary. Very well done sir, I tip my hat and thank you for sharing this!
Jimbo
Jimbo
Thank you very much for this compliments, nice words and spending so much time by reading my build-log, Jimbo.
And you are lucky (and also the others): I am far from finished.
Regards, Peter
Whew! From the tiniest of rigging elements to hand made realistic looking multiple sheeve metal blocks, all in a scale which projects realism, then add in some of the most beautiful pictures of the countryside just leaves me feeling incredibly fortunate to be part of this SOS forum. Thanks for sharing, Peter.
You also thanks for this very nice words and compliments, Daniel. And for taking time to go through the posts. I feel privileged to post here and to show some element related to the 1:1 and 1:50 versions.
And of course, it feels good that my work is appreciated. I do hope that my work inspires others. Take small steps beyond what you think is your limit. Then you will make a step further. And what I see in your log, Daniel, you are also pushing your limit further with nice results.
Regards, Peter
I haven't done much on the Balder this past week.
I have been thinking for a while about how I want to present the model later on. I was thinking in the form of a shipyard.
On page 14 of the Amsterdam Restoration Book, there is this photo of the shipyard where the Balder was built in 1912:
Caption: The Shipyard of A. de Jong in Vlaardingen in 1903. On the right is the machine factory where the capstans and donkey boilers for the loggers were manufactured.
Photo: M.P. Zuydgeest, Vlaardingen.
I have no idea if it will eventually look roughly like this. It is not clearly visible what the shipyard floor consisted of.
I'm just assuming there was some kind of paving. After all, an unpaved surface becomes quite a mess after a rain shower.
While searching for diorama material, I came across the 1:48 scale bricks from PlusModel:
The stones are +/- 6x3 mm, with some minor variations. They are apparently made in blocks of 2. Several have not yet been divided, so I can also use some square tiles.
Laying a 'street' loosely goes wrong quickly if you don't glue them to a base immediately. Everything shifts, tilts, etc., etc. That is why I made '4x6' pieces in a sort of random pattern. Also cut sone stones in halves. That can be seen in the photo above.
I can lay these blocks in groups of 4 in a square, with another square tile in the middle:
But sweeping the seams shut with fine shell sand becomes a mess. (Trial and error!)
Therefore, I made a base and placed some test pieces in a formwork and glued them immediately:
Left: without grouting. Right: after grouting. Over the coming period, I’m going to work through a box bit by bit to see how much I actually need to cover both building boards. And then I’ll think further about what it’s going to become.
Regards, Peter
I have been thinking for a while about how I want to present the model later on. I was thinking in the form of a shipyard.
On page 14 of the Amsterdam Restoration Book, there is this photo of the shipyard where the Balder was built in 1912:
Caption: The Shipyard of A. de Jong in Vlaardingen in 1903. On the right is the machine factory where the capstans and donkey boilers for the loggers were manufactured.
Photo: M.P. Zuydgeest, Vlaardingen.
I have no idea if it will eventually look roughly like this. It is not clearly visible what the shipyard floor consisted of.
I'm just assuming there was some kind of paving. After all, an unpaved surface becomes quite a mess after a rain shower.
While searching for diorama material, I came across the 1:48 scale bricks from PlusModel:
The stones are +/- 6x3 mm, with some minor variations. They are apparently made in blocks of 2. Several have not yet been divided, so I can also use some square tiles.
Laying a 'street' loosely goes wrong quickly if you don't glue them to a base immediately. Everything shifts, tilts, etc., etc. That is why I made '4x6' pieces in a sort of random pattern. Also cut sone stones in halves. That can be seen in the photo above.
I can lay these blocks in groups of 4 in a square, with another square tile in the middle:
But sweeping the seams shut with fine shell sand becomes a mess. (Trial and error!)
Therefore, I made a base and placed some test pieces in a formwork and glued them immediately:
Left: without grouting. Right: after grouting. Over the coming period, I’m going to work through a box bit by bit to see how much I actually need to cover both building boards. And then I’ll think further about what it’s going to become.
Regards, Peter
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