Bluenose #54

[Peter Voogt]

Thanks Peter, just didn't want to try and force them in

Always welcom to ask.
PS: Beware of the 3rd en 6th frame from the left on the picture ……… hanging backwards. I know, they are just hanging for further preparation, but later on, a little mistake by installing ……..
Regards, Peter

 

[Jimbo]

55 Frames completed, only tried sanding the first few, then decided to crack on and get tge rest done. I guess working my way through sanding all the black and shaping will be a bit more daunting than building them. Big shout out to YuanQing The parts are cut to very high standards. Fingers crossed the rest is as joyful to build haha Thanks for your advice and help. ( So far )

 

[Jimbo]

OK, Sorry to be a pain, another question, how wide should the rabbit be ? I haven't glued these yet, but it looks quite wide ?

 

[Peter Voogt]

OK, Sorry to be a pain, another question, how wide should the rabbit be ? I haven't glued these yet, but it looks quite wide ?

View attachment 338072

When the parts 17+18 are mounted flush with the top of middle parts 8/9/10 of the keel, and the parts 20+21 flush with the bottom, then it’s just that size of the rabbet which arises. You influence the width yourself with how much char (and wood) you sand away from the respective bottom of 17+18 or top of 20+21. The lowest hull plank, the garboard strake, must later be placed in the rabbet.

Much has been discussed and written about this rabbet. I'm not going to do that here. If interested: —> Rabbet <— Click : post 47 till 59. Other builders have just slide the hull plank into the square rabbet.

And pay attention to the front tips of both parts 20: the shape must be |\_/|. The bowsprit is laying in that space between the points:

TAKE NOTE of this change on Bow piece and Bowsprit Fitment Beveling

Please review this post by Heinrich as he found some very interesting info concerning the Beveling of the Bow and Bowsprit parts: https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/threads/yuanqing-bluenose-heinrich.6500/page-14#post-149841

shipsofscale.com

I did it also wrong, made it first /|_|\ and reshaped it to /\_/\.
On the drawing, fig.3, the drawing in the middle of the keel shows it ‘confusing’. In the detailed drawing left-under, it’s shown correct: the bevel on de insides of the parts 20.
Regards, Peter

 

[Jimbo]

Thanks again Peter, just didn't want to start gluing up till I checked.

 

[RDN1954]

Much has been discussed and written about this rabbet. I'm not going to do that here. If interested: —> Rabbet <— Click : post 47 till 59. Other builders have just slide the hull plank into the square rabbet.

It's worth the effort to create a chamfered rebate. Once you hit the planking of the hull, you'll reap the rewards.

 

[Jimbo]

It's worth the effort to create a chamfered rebate. Once you hit the planking of the hull, you'll reap the rewards.

Thanks, I agree with the reasoning on this, I think my original question was around the actual gap ? I don't know how important this will be during the planking stage ? on my build, it looked a bit wide, however the edges on the boards ( I don't know the technical terms for them) we're lined up OK ?

 

[Jimbo]

Well, I knew it wouldn't be to long till I joined the BRC
Unfortunately I dropped it off the edge of my desk, and my legs instantly closed to try and save it ( from falling lightly onto a carpet )
Oh well fingers crossed this is the only one !! haha

 

[RDN1954]

Thanks, I agree with the reasoning on this, I think my original question was around the actual gap ? I don't know how important this will be during the planking stage ? on my build, it looked a bit wide, however the edges on the boards ( I don't know the technical terms for them) we're lined up OK ?

Same here, the gaps look a bit on the wide side, but that gave me little to no trouble when planking. Actual, I think having the gaps to be narrow will give you more issues; potentially giving you a lot of grief, because especially at the bow the angle between planks and keel are very small. If the gaps are too small, you won't get the planks to follow the intended contour nice and smoothl.

 

[Jimbo]

Same here, the gaps look a bit on the wide side, but that gave me little to no trouble when planking. Actual, I think having the gaps to be narrow will give you more issues; potentially giving you a lot of grief, because especially at the bow the angle between planks and keel are very small. If the gaps are too small, you won't get the planks to follow the intended contour nice and smoothl.

Great thank you, makes sence. have you completed your build ?

 

[Jimbo]

These are not finished ( by any means) but this 'Rabbit/ Rebate ' is something I haven't came across before. Looking at some other posts it seems getting the frames to meet is a big thing! Do they all have to meet the top line ?

 

[Peter Voogt]

These are not finished ( by any means) but this 'Rabbit/ Rebate ' is something I haven't came across before. Looking at some other posts it seems getting the frames to meet is a big thing! Do they all have to meet the top line ?

View attachment 338536

You have to turn your keel a bit counter clockwise, so the bottom of all the slots are horizontal:

Then you can install your frames vertical, in a 90 dgr angle with the slot bottoms. Then you will see that the tops became in line (with the base of the jig).
Regards, Peter

 

[RDN1954]

Well, I knew it wouldn't be to long till I joined the BRC
Unfortunately I dropped it off the edge of my desk, and my legs instantly closed to try and save it ( from falling lightly onto a carpet )
Oh well fingers crossed this is the only one !! haha

View attachment 338496

I used two methods to repair broken frames;
1) Drill holes 0,6 or 0,8 in the broken halves, insert a pin of the appropriate diameter and then bond them together.
2) Debond de parts and fabricate a new frame part from some scrap material, there‘s enough leftovers. After that is simply bonding the parts together again.
The first method returned to bite me; firstly, it’s too fragile, secondly, once cutting the frames to length, I had to cut through the pin and the bondline didn’t hold…
So if you’re confident enough, I would opt for method 2.

 

[Jimbo]

OK Installed the frames and not all are reaching the Rabbit line ? Is thus a big problem?

 

[Frank48]

You have to turn your keel a bit counter clockwise, so the bottom of all the slots are horizontal:
View attachment 338572
Then you can install your frames vertical, in a 90 dgr angle with the slot bottoms. Then you will see that the tops became in line (with the base of the jig).
Regards, Peter

sorry, fifths do not mount perpendicular to the keel? from the construction line

 

[Peter Voogt]

OK Installed the frames and not all are reaching the Rabbit line ? Is thus a big problem?

View attachment 339972

Hi Jim. To see if the frames are correct in the keel, make a dry-fit of the keelson on the inside of the frames.
If it fits well and fits smoothly over the frame bottoms, then the frames are well fitted in the recesses of the keel. But there may be one that is just not deep enough and sticks up slightly on the inside.

The aforementioned bottom plank of the hull must connect neatly from the frames into the rabbet. A little space under the plank can be bridged.
You can now also take a hull plank, dry-fit and see how it flows. If your planks end up not going neatly into the rabbet, the top edge of the rabbet, besides the frames, may be slightly chamfered.

All of this takes some time. I think I had everything in and out 2 or 3 times before these 3 main parts were neat: keel, frames and keelson. But that determines how well and neatly the following parts fit into the hull. And what it will look like.
Regards, Peter

 

[Peter Voogt]

sorry, fifths do not mount perpendicular to the keel? from the construction line

I didn't write it like that, Frank. With my clarified lines. I suppose ‘fifths’=frames?
The bottoms of the slots/recesses are horizontal and the frames are vertical on that bottoms.
And gosh …….. the ‘horizontal bottoms’ run parallel to the horizontal construction line = jig bottom. Then the frames are also vertical to the jig.
In the Netherlands we call this “square reasoning”.
Regards, Peter

 

[Frank48]

I didn't write it like that, Frank. With my clarified lines. I suppose ‘fifths’=frames?
The bottoms of the slots/recesses are horizontal and the frames are vertical on that bottoms.
And gosh …….. the ‘horizontal bottoms’ run parallel to the horizontal construction line = jig bottom. Then the frames are also vertical to the jig.
In the Netherlands we call this “square reasoning”.
Regards, Peter

Sorry Pietro I can't understand (Translation) the Tuoscritto well

 

[RDN1954]

have you completed your build ?

No, my build is still in progress, https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/threads/yq-bluenose-by-johan.8304/page-44