• Win a Free Custom Engraved Brass Coin!!!
    As a way to introduce our brass coins to the community, we will raffle off a free coin during the month of August. Follow link ABOVE for instructions for entering.
  • PRE-ORDER SHIPS IN SCALE TODAY!

    The beloved Ships in Scale Magazine is back and charting a new course for 2026!
    Discover new skills, new techniques, and new inspirations in every issue.

    NOTE THAT OUR FIRST ISSUE WILL BE JAN/FEB 2026

Bluenose II, 1:75 Artesania-Latina kit build by Dom.

Next issue...

In step #36 it shows the davits (162) installed somewhere but never says where they are installed. It doesn't look like they are drilled into the actual deck. I suspect they are installed higher up than that. But I can't tell for sure from any photo.
 
aep said:
Next issue...

In step #36 it shows the davits (162) installed somewhere but never says where they are installed. It doesn't look like they are drilled into the actual deck. I suspect they are installed higher up than that. But I can't tell for sure from any photo.
Click to expand...
Hi,

Yes, you need to carefully drill a shallow hole into the deck with a 2mm drill so that the capstan fits through the forward deck cover (56) and the foot sits into the deck. The top of the capstan should be 20mm above the top of the hand rail. Be very careful because you can easily drill straight through the hull! keep the drill slightly angled to follow the hull and only go down 2 or 3 mm, just enough that the capstan is supported. Trim off the bottom of the capstan if necessary to get the height correct.
 
Another question...

In step #37, at the stern is there supposed to be an eyebolt, the same as there is at the other end of the wire? It feels like it needs something like that to hold that end of the wire. That would be an eyebolt, six stanchions and then an eyebolt.

1768584316680.png
 
aep said:
Another question...

In step #37, at the stern is there supposed to be an eyebolt, the same as there is at the other end of the wire? It feels like it needs something like that to hold that end of the wire. That would be an eyebolt, six stanchions and then an eyebolt.

View attachment 570787
Click to expand...
Yes that's correct. Where you measure the first 50mm from the stern is the position of the rear eye bolt, then the six stanchions and then another eye bolt, all spaced evenly at 24mm. It is important that you trim down all the stanchions so that the base stem fits into the top rail only to a depth of 1mm along the centre line of the rail. The holes are drilled to the same 1mm depth or you risk drilling into the top of the hull and breaking out of the side - be very careful with the drill! The same for the two eye bolts, cut the stem down to 2mm and drill the holes with a 0.6mm drill, the eye should be sitting on top of the rail.
 
Another question... I find quite a few places where one must glue wood to metal. What type of glue do you use for that?
 
aep said:
Another question... I find quite a few places where one must glue wood to metal. What type of glue do you use for that?
Click to expand...
Generally CA will do the job. Brass is a real pain to gef CA to stick but I usually give the metal a gentle rub with some fine wet and dry just to take the shine off and give the glue a key and then clean the surface with some isopropyl alcohol. If the CA is problem where you don't want it to fog the paint I will mix up a couple of drops of epoxy and apply it with the end of a needle (messy stuff!). One tip I picked up from SOS when using CA is to dip one side of a fine scalpel blade into a drop of CA and then hold the edge of the blade to the joint and the CA will wick into it very cleanly and you don't end up with unsightly excess glue.
 
Great! Thanks a lot. I haven't been sanding the brass but I will now.
 
I see 30 dowels (part #201). Step #38 talks about sanding them and a photo sems to show 2 of them installed. However the instructions seem to say nothing about where they all go. Am I missing something in the photos or should it be obvious to me where they go? I suspect that's really the case.
 
aep said:
I see 30 dowels (part #201). Step #38 talks about sanding them and a photo sems to show 2 of them installed. However the instructions seem to say nothing about where they all go. Am I missing something in the photos or should it be obvious to me where they go? I suspect that's really the case.
Click to expand...
Hi,

They are the belaying pins for the rigging. They go into the holes along the rails, mast and the bow and stern. You need to skip to the rigging plan to see where they go. I did not like the A-L pins and purchased some brass ones, but the kit ones will do the job. I also redraw all the rigging plans according to Jensen's book. If you look back in my log (I think section 12) there is a link to a really nice website by the "suburbanshipmodeller). He goes through all the rigging lines step by step and I found it a really good reference together with the book in order to fully rig the model. I went all in with the rigging which was quite hard to do but you can get away with a far simpler rigging plan by missing a few runs and keeping it basic.

Dom
 
It seems as though part 178 in step #40 does not actually exist. I guess I'm supposed to cut a 6 x 6 x 6 cube from the boxwood, sand it into a sphere and then drill a hole in it. Does that seem right?

1769869596175.png
 
aep said:
It seems as though part 178 in step #40 does not actually exist. I guess I'm supposed to cut a 6 x 6 x 6 cube from the boxwood, sand it into a sphere and then drill a hole in it. Does that seem right?

View attachment 574432
Click to expand...
Hi, fairly sure there were two little bobbles in the fittings kit for the mast caps so it looks like they are missing or they are hiding amongst some of the rigging fittings. Easy enough to make a couple but they should be in the kit.

Dom
 
Thanks Dom. I thought they should be but I sure can't find them. I think I can make them though.
 
Oops! I just found them. They were smaller than I thought they would be. Thanks again.
 
There must be some trick to wrapping these strings/threads. Either that or my fingers are way too fat for this job. Any thoughts/suggestions?

1771939078272.png
 
aep said:
There must be some trick to wrapping these strings/threads. Either that or my fingers are way too fat for this job. Any thoughts/suggestions?

View attachment 580504
Click to expand...
They are not the easiest thing to do but the best way is to make some holders for the deadeyes so you can fix the distance between them (just some scrap wood and some 0.5mm brass rod, place the deadeye on the scrap and use a pin drill through the deadeye holes and then push some brass rod through and glue them into the scrap with some CA, the pins are about 8mm long so they have a little bit of flex). I would also suggest drilling out the holes with a pin drill, I used 0.8mm which makes life a lot easier. Fit the top deadeye to the holder pins and then fit the bottom holder pins into the lower deadeye on the inboard side so that the two deadeyes are in the correct position. It is very important that you make two pairs so that you can set the port and starboard shrouds as pairs or you will end up putting too much tension on one side of the mast. With the deadeyes in place run the shrouds around the mast and down to the top dead eye, wrap it around and then bring the thread up and hold it in position with a clip or tie a thin piece of thread around so that the shroud is fixed in position with the deadeye. Adjust the tension until the shroud has no slack but be careful not to have them too tight. With the correct tension on the shrouds Port and starboard you can remove the tools. This will keep the the upper deadeyes wrapped in the shroud and the length will be correct. Use the thin thread to lace the two deadeyes as you see in the picture. Knot one end and use a threading wire to pull the thread through the top left hole from the inboard side. Follow the sequence in the diagram with the holes in the deadeyes orientated as shown. The last run should then be going into the bottom right hole from the outside and then take that up to the top and wrap it around the shroud to seize them together. Once you are happy with the tension you can use a drop of CA glue to fix everything and then trim any excess thread.


Here is a picture of the tools that will help. It's just a case of being methodical.


IMG_6516.JPG



Hope that helps!

Dom
 
For spacers for the deadeyes, I have seen in other instructions to make a X from two pieces of brass or paperclips of proper size, then bend the tops and bottom 90 to make a flat going into the blocks, you can adjust spacing when bending the legs, this allows for even spacing among all pairs of blocks.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top