Bluenose Old Photos, Books, and resources from the past

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OK, a question for all those familiar with the BL and BL2, how much difference in design is there between the two same named boats?

Could one buy two POF kits and use the second to make a BL2 to sit along side the original boat.
From my looking at my BL II book the main differences that I see are in what is present on the deck which was not on BN decades ago; the radar on the foremast and life preserving devices tubes or possibly for inflatable boats; the entire lower deck arrangement of compartments as well as the forward entry into the large aft main cabin; the BN II engine, engine room, and dual propellers; air scoops just forward of the main cabin; lack of deck top storage provision for barrels, creates, etc. . for fishing; different dory kids p&s midships locations and launching/recovery tackle details; numbers of portholes around the main cabin; wider deck planks between the aft end of the main cabin under the wheel & box; square "tub" instead of round on the port side of the wheel box; and the general bow winch engine/gears/cover boxes; and type of bilge pumps. Just a quick summary of what visually comes across that I don't recognize from photos of BN as well as the plans for the MS2130 which are noted as to their vetting and counter checking for accuracy. I hope this partially answers your question. Rich (PT-2)
 
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From my looking at my BL II book the main differences that I see are in what is present on the deck which was not on BN decades ago; the radar on the foremast and life preserving devices tubes or possibly for inflatable boats; the entire lower deck arrangement of compartments as well as the forward entry into the large aft main cabin; the BN II engine, engine room, and dual propellers; air scoops just forward of the main cabin; lack of deck top storage provision for barrels, creates, etc. . for fishing; different dory kids p&s midships locations and launching/recovery tackle details; numbers of portholes around the main cabin; wider deck planks between the aft end of the main cabin under the wheel & box; square "tub" instead of round on the port side of the wheel box; and the general bow winch engine/gears/cover boxes; and type of bilge pumps. Just a quick summary of what visually comes across that I don't recognize from photos of BN as well as the plans for the MS2130 which are noted as to their vetting and counter checking for accuracy. I hope this partially answers your question. Rich (PT-2)
After putting on second coats on the lower hull of my BN I will open the YQ kit to take a look at some of the provided parts and plans to find differences from the MS and BN II plans/drawings to provide a better comparison for consideration. Rich
 
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After putting on second coats on the lower hull of my BN I will open the YQ kit to take a look at some of the provided parts and plans to find differences from the MS and BN II plans/drawings to provide a better comparison for consideration. Rich
After taking some of the packaged wood cut parts (decking mainly) and looking into the instruction book more carefully with the pictures I see some things presented or different than in Bluenose from the old photos and Bluenose II from the book, as well as those in the MS2130 that match some of both of those, I have typed up another listing in an Excel page saved as pdf with I offer here for consideration. The main point is that builders of the YQ kite as it is provided can end with a very nice schooner model that happens to have the name Bluenose associated. Only those focusing upon ending with a model including as much as they desire of the original (using photos and other resources) or Bluenose II which has it's own differences, will have to resolve the opportunities as they desire. Here are a few visual items noticed: You may have to take in intermediate step to open it for viewing, maybe not. Enjoy your Bluenose schooner build. Rich (PT-2)
 

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After taking some of the packaged wood cut parts (decking mainly) and looking into the instruction book more carefully with the pictures I see some things presented or different than in Bluenose from the old photos and Bluenose II from the book, as well as those in the MS2130 that match some of both of those, I have typed up another listing in an Excel page saved as pdf with I offer here for consideration. The main point is that builders of the YQ kite as it is provided can end with a very nice schooner model that happens to have the name Bluenose associated. Only those focusing upon ending with a model including as much as they desire of the original (using photos and other resources) or Bluenose II which has it's own differences, will have to resolve the opportunities as they desire. Here are a few visual items noticed: You may have to take in intermediate step to open it for viewing, maybe not. Enjoy your Bluenose schooner build. Rich (PT-2)
After trolling for construction and rigging photos I have only found a few of Bluenose so I went into Bluenose II Store and Gallery photos which I will put up for consideration in details that may be of interest in completing your Bluenose schooner:Bluenose full sail Into the wind.jpg
Bluenose Racing  No. 1.jpgLaunching Bluenose Bow VIew.jpgBluenose Racing Sail Numbers.png
Now on to Bluenose II which has some differences:Bluenose Launching Forward Port Quarter.jpgNow on with Bluenose II:Bluenose II Main Boom end rigging.jpgBluenose II Main Sail Fureled.jpgBluenose II Aft end main boom.jpgIn that one we can see the sail attachments and natural varnished boom finishBluenose II Foremast Deadeyes Jumbo JIb Boom Anchor.jpgThey added a number of additional pins, one for each deadeye fall. Note the deck fastening with countersunk fasteners and a flush wood plug sanded off.Bluenose II Decking Plugged Fastener Pattern.jpgBluenose II After Decking.jpgBluenose II Blocks in human scale.jpgIt is interesting to realize the siwe
 

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Thanxs Rich, for all the time and energy you put in by surching and vinding these photo’s. ThumbsupThumbsupThumbsup
Regards, Peter
The search is part of my enjoyment within the schooner as I want to learn as much as I am able about the two schooners (BN II is not a full reproduction of BN) so that I can present my MS2130 with as much accuracy and I can in the fishing mode. I am far behind the skill levels and output of most of the SoS builders. I know that your own will be an excellent result. Rich (PT-2)
 
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There is an error in calling the photo of a racing schooner as Bluenose as it is posted later below that the number represents the overall standing of the schooner and Bluenose only carried 2 once after the first defeat to another Canadian schooner and winning the next race earned to carry 1 for the remaining years of her racing as her top position was never lost which would have had her to carry a lower number (2, 3, 4, etc. . . overall). Rich
 
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I stumbled on this YouTube -
It focuses on the Gloucester's fishing during the age of sail but does have a big section on the races between Bluenose and several Gloucester ships.

Regards,
Dave
That is a great viewing treat. There is another YouTuber on Angul Walters that has more shipboard scenes. Note that some of the dory launching scenes in those were used in the 1937 movie Captains Courageous which also had some remarkable sailing scenes in heavy seas and a steady camera which I would like to know how they did it (gimbles etc.) at the time. Looking closely at the schooners provides details for completing our own builds as we want to "trick them up". Thanks,, Rich
 
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That is a great viewing treat. There is another YouTuber on Angul Walters that has more shipboard scenes. Note that some of the dory launching scenes in those were used in the 1937 movie Captains Courageous which also had some remarkable sailing scenes in heavy seas and a steady camera which I would like to know how they did it (gimbles etc.) at the time. Looking closely at the schooners provides details for completing our own builds as we want to "trick them up". Thanks,, Rich
I did not post this BN II photo of the deadeyes, round and oval, showing their configuration for rigging our builds.Blunose II Deadeyes top chainplates.jpg
I have both types in my MS2130 kit but the oval need to have grooves filed for the stropping. Very difficult to hold and file as they are so small. Also, all blocks need to be filed from square edges to rounds, holes reamed so exiting lines arc downwards and not straight out, and the stropping groove improved. There are a LOT of blocks and time required. I am not sure what YQ has provided. Rich
 
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Great-looking device EJ - at least it's a nice pair of extra hands!
The drum sanding block buster that I receive is a bust and waste of money. The sandpaper paddles are too short. I may try it again but it seems that more blocks than I loaded are necessary for the tumbling action. Fly tying vices are always great small fingers. Rich
 
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The drum sanding block buster that I receive is a bust and waste of money. The sandpaper paddles are too short. I may try it again but it seems that more blocks than I loaded are necessary for the tumbling action. Fly tying vices are always great small fingers. Rich
Clarifying the question about bilge pumps on YQ Bluenose I have copied the diagram and explanation of those on Bluenose from Bluenose II Saga of the Great Fishing Schooners, page 56 "for educational and not commercial usage only".Pump and Well Assembly.jpg
Cement was a large ballast material as were the growing number and load of salted cod and other fish on board making racing home more stable than with an empty hold. When racing the anchors were stowed below as ballast along with other known and not mentioned items which blew into a tempest in the last race with Theboud when there was surrepititous ballast shifting before morning waterline weight checking before the race from one item that I read.
 
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Clarifying the question about bilge pumps on YQ Bluenose I have copied the diagram and explanation of those on Bluenose from Bluenose II Saga of the Great Fishing Schooners, page 56 "for educational and not commercial usage only".View attachment 203694
Cement was a large ballast material as were the growing number and load of salted cod and other fish on board making racing home more stable than with an empty hold. When racing the anchors were stowed below as ballast along with other known and not mentioned items which blew into a tempest in the last race with Theboud when there was surrepititous ballast shifting before morning waterline weight checking before the race from one item that I read.
To expand upon the cement ballast as in the diagram for the pumps' wells, the specifications for Bluenose (p. 18): "Ballast - to consist of all inside ballast to the exgtent of forty tones of cement and pig iron placed between frames to level of main keelson. All bilge woodworking coated with red lead bgefore storing ballast."
 
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@PT-2 , do you have any idea as to how many mast hoops were on each of the masts and what size they were? Nice diagrams, Thanks
Answering your hoops question, here is the answer with some related information:
Sails were of 22 inch side canvass (rolls) "to be complete with reefing points, boom lashings, mast hoops, jib hanks, clew, head, tack and foot reinforcements.
Hoops: 36 - 24" and 24 - 13" You can see the larger were divided between the main and fore masts with the smaller divided between the main and fore top masts. The hoops are further described as: main mast 27", 2" wide and 1" thick. Top mast hoops: 14-1/2" x 1-1/2", rounded triangular form with the narrow face inside and the wider face outside of the hoop/mast; made of ash. Ends overlap about half of the circumference and are secured with copper rivets. I have not found a diagram of the manner of lashing the sail to the hoops but believe that it starts with a girth hitch around the hoop with the two long ends (exiting either above or below the hoop) and from opposite sides through the clew rings sewn into the sail and tied off either above or below the exiting girth hitch lines. I have used than manner for the hoops in my previous pilot boat (schooner rigged) and it works very well to keep the hoops perpendicular to the mast without twisting. Rich (PT-2)
 
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Answering your hoops question, here is the answer with some related information:
Sails were of 22 inch side canvass (rolls) "to be complete with reefing points, boom lashings, mast hoops, jib hanks, clew, head, tack and foot reinforcements.
Hoops: 36 - 24" and 24 - 13" You can see the larger were divided between the main and fore masts with the smaller divided between the main and fore top masts. The hoops are further described as: main mast 27", 2" wide and 1" thick. Top mast hoops: 14-1/2" x 1-1/2", rounded triangular form with the narrow face inside and the wider face outside of the hoop/mast; made of ash. Ends overlap about half of the circumference and are secured with copper rivets. I have not found a diagram of the manner of lashing the sail to the hoops but believe that it starts with a girth hitch around the hoop with the two long ends (exiting either above or below the hoop) and from opposite sides through the clew rings sewn into the sail and tied off either above or below the exiting girth hitch lines. I have used than manner for the hoops in my previous pilot boat (schooner rigged) and it works very well to keep the hoops perpendicular to the mast without twisting. Rich (PT-2)
Diagrams or pictures would help. ;)
 
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Match the sizes from the specifications that I listed above and relate those diameters to the "cartoon" showing a relative size and then a closer view of a cross section of the hoop with the rounded triangular form.Hoop illustration.jpg
Zooming in on the hoop section
Hoop section.jpg
I am still researching the manner of tying the sale luff to the hoop in a correct manner and not how I have done it for a horizontal hoop. Rich
Diagrams or pictures would help. ;)
i
 
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Match the sizes from the specifications that I listed above and relate those diameters to the "cartoon" showing a relative size and then a closer view of a cross section of the hoop with the rounded triangular form.View attachment 203869
Zooming in on the hoop section
View attachment 203870
I am still researching the manner of tying the sale luff to the hoop in a correct manner and not how I have done it for a horizontal hoop. Rich

i
Here is a mockup of a hoop (chrome ring) with a girth hitch and exiting lines to each side of the luff ring (vertical) and then those back to tie off between the hoop girth hitch and sail luff in a simplified way that may have additional passes through the luff before being tied off which is what I am researching for the correct manner.Hoop and Luff tieoff.jpgHoop and Luff tieoff.jpg
 
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