Bridge and Boat Diorama

To continue:
It was at this stage of the project I received an email containing an old photograph of the bridge. It was the best photo I had showing the swing-gates that were replaced by boom-gates in 1995. Here is the blow up image of those gates.

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From this, I had enough confidence to proceed in making a model of them.
I used whatever scraps I could find: flat wire, #8 fencing wire for axles, washers, brass tubing, thick tinplate, flyscreen, and couplings from electrical terminals.
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The servo motors that operate the gates could not be placed directly under the bridge without being seen.
I used long axles to reach down to under the table.
The axels cannot be seen from the console operators viewpoint. They are hidden behind the piers.

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G'day Peter.
I havtagree with you. In my old place, I had a large drawer, called 'thing that could come in handy drawer' in it I put all things than I might need. Over 30 years, I often found things that I could use from a non related object, only a small tweek was needed. Even that drawer was made from an very old fridge veggies drawer and the runners was from an old curtain track.
But, sadly that drawer is gone because of our move and there's been numerous occasions where that drawer and it's stuff could be used.:(
Havagoodone mate
Greg
 
... sadly that drawer is gone because of our move and there's been numerous occasions where that drawer and it's stuff could be used.:(
I can relate.
Years ago I lost everything in a fire. Lit by a kid who broke in and stole a 22 cal rifle to shoot the neighbour. Had no insurance. All I had left was a tool box I had in my car boot (I was away at the time).
It took at least 6 months to get to a point where I no longer had to recall something. Thinking I had it but actually lost in the fire. It was like ticking things off on an inventory list. It was not just tools and scrap bits, but everything (created works, photographs, clothing, etc). Then a few years later, someone broke into my car, and then for fun, set it on fire too. So now I pay rent and have no car, but I do have a pushbike, and love riding it everywhere.
 
I noticed that there is not much interest in the electronics side of this project, or any other.
Unfortunately, it is the electrical side of such projects which makes the difference between a static (dead) and a dynamic (alive) display.
Even the simple light emmitting diode (LED) can bring a sparkle of life, not only in the model, but into the observer too.

It's alive. It's alive. It's alive. It's alive!
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EXAMPLES OF LIGHTING EFFECTS
I have noticed that some modellers have used LEDs to bring light into various parts of their model ships. And they all look good too.
They could look even better with sequencers (as I have already shown), and dimmers. A combination of the two, localized in one spot, could make a naked flame effect. A small strobe light, hidden behind a blind (box, door, etc.) could give an indication of arcing, or a welder is in process. or even a distance storm on the horizon. Even a small 3 mm LED, restricted by paint, to only shine up a face, as if a sailor was lighting his pipe (now and again).

One can even buy a moon cycle light, that follows the exact luminocity of the phasing moon at your location. Some aquarium owners use them to simulate moonlight for night-time display. Others use dimmers that slowly phase out the light so their fish won't have to cope with a sudden turning off of the lights. These are to simulate dusk and dawn for aquariums in buildings.

The old fibre-lights bunched together with one bright LED can go from one source to many points of lights. Lighting selected rooms of an oceanliner. If several of these were made to sequence and dim now and again, a whole ship could look busy as if people were moving around in a lit ship. Or an old fashioned computer display board with lights. I can easily see this in a modern submarine, or ship, control room. Aaah, another aspect - lit instrumentation.

Where else would we see a light for a scale model?
Zoltan's upcomming BBQ fire pit ;).
A blacksmith's forge (glowing).
Small fireplaces and cooking hearths.
Ship to ship signalling.
Searchlights.
Flickering candles (now available from bargain shops).
Steel against a grinding wheel.
Street lamps of old, to modern day traffic lights.
Neon signage. . . .

As you can see, we are only limited by our imaginations. Lighting is the simpliest step towards bringing a display to life, and a starting point to electronics. This is how I started off. Where I ended up with it, you most probably won't believe me. . . I have built nine Tesla type coils, from 6 inch to 4 feet in diameter, producing up to 3 million volts (larger than what Dr Frankenstein would have had). I used them as instruments for physics research (a past hobby). So don't let fear hold you back, but always allow for prudence to keep you safe.

If you wish to add lighting, or whatever else, to your model ships and their surroundings, go for it.
If one was interested enough, one could learn how to do almost anything from the Internet.

Oh, don't forget to experiment. And accept it if things occassional blow up in your face.

Here is an experiment I made near the beginning of my bridge project. I wanted an image of the operator at the control panel, projected onto the span hut window. So I played around with a torch and paper cut-outs to make shadows. The image on right is how it looked from the other side.

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I love using lights. on my planes I used them regularly even used to backlight the instrument panels and instruments. doing a great job i am just lurking as to allow you to keep posting. I used to build architectural models too so I know where you coming from
 
G'day Peter
I'm currently working on LEDs for my ROYAL CAROLINE Model. I've worked out where and how to installed them. I'm putting 20 NON blinking micro LEDs in one not-so-important area and 20 x 5mm diameter random flashing LEDs in the main and king's cabin. These LEDs are the one they used for the fake candles. I bought the 20 micro non flashing LEDs for $2.50 and the 10 x random blinking LEDs for $5 all on eBay.
I wish I knew a fraction of your electronic skills and I would do some more advance lighting on the model.
All of these LEDs will have a 5 volts external AC power supply which will going through the two bolts that will hold up the model via a keel's stands. The stern end stand will be the common and the bow end stand will the active.
This is the limit to my 'electronic' ability.
Havagooday and happymodeling mate
Greg
 
Thanks @Uwek, @JosephH , @Peglegreg for your reactions.
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@Peglegreg, your use of the LEDs sounds great.
Next thing I'll read from you is that you hooked up a PIR unit to the 5 volt supply. Having the ships lights turn on everytime someone has a closer look at your wonderful model. ;)
 
Now for some electronics. It is a requirement for the working model, and some may be interested.

Designing and testing a servo circuit for this particular brand of servo.
Showing the two waveforms for a 90+ degree rotation of the servo arm.
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Four servo controllers mounted on a single printed circuit board (pcb). Each controller has its own positioning adjuster (blue trim-pots), so the swingates can be tuned into the exact open & closed positions.
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Made wooden brackets for mounting the servos and gate axles under the display table.
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Made brackets for positioning microswitches over the gate axle lever-arm. These switches will enable the control panel lamps, and other circuits, when the gate is either open or closed.
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Designing and testing a motor controlling circuit for CW and CCW rotation. Also, for slowing the span-lift motor, for it was too fast. The span would have raised to the top in 4 seconds. I have slowed this down to 8 seconds, which is still quick, but doable.
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Discovered that the motor axle drifts in rotation when power is switched off. This needs to be calculated into positioning the sensors, to turn the motor off, just before its designated position.
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Okay, no more electronics for awhile.
 
Thank you @prutser , @Peglegreg , and @zoly99sask for your reactions.
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Oops! I forgot something...
Constructing the motor controllers circuit board
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Painted several 1/72 scale figurines. Half of them are shire council workers in hi-vis work gear.
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Just realised that I have caught up to where I am at with this project.
The boat of symmetry, the BINGAL, was next on the list of postings. It can be viewed on another thread
https://www.shipsofscale.com/sosforums/index.php?threads/build-log-bingal-boat-of-symmetry.1716/

There is another boat to be added to this diorama. Originally called the CRAB (a crane boat), but it is now called the CLEM-PETER ( a buoy tender).
This boat is still under construction today, and can be seen at...
https://www.shipsofscale.com/sosforums/index.php?threads/log-build-crab-a-crane-boat.1724/

As soon as I finish the buoy tender, I will return here to work on the Bridge and Boat Diorama.
Postings won't be as frequent from now on.
Thanks for following. Hope to see you all at the log build CRAB.
 
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I am back again. Could not find enough motivation to finish the Buoy Tender (Crab [a crane boat]) project at this time.
Instead I decided to come back to this thread.
So, I started adding land-fill to both sides of the bridge.

Used condensed insulation foam for land mass. I am very happy with this medium. It works very well for cutting and shaping, and it's super light.
Basically I first cut out the profile shape I want, and then used a rasp-file to shape it exactly how I want it. Since I never done this before, I started at the least significant section of the diorama. Hoping in this way, as I progress, I will gain experience and confidence in using the foam in more demanding shapes and sizes.

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Used PVA glue to cement the foam to the board. When I previously done a test strip, I could not detach the foam from the wood. It had to cut off. So, PVA works very well with foam and bare wood. Before gluing the foam, I decided to first add my choice of filler (water-based wood putty) to the section that goes under the bridge.

Then I glued the foam, added the wood putty with a spatulet. When all was dried, I discovered that the putty was a bit fragile. It was recommended that I seal the putty with a mixture of PVA glue and water (50-50%). The first coat soaked right in, sealing the putty. The second coat gave a bit of a glaze, but also hardened the surface a bit more. Now I can knock on it with my knuckles without cracking the putty.

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To tell you the truth. I was apprehensive about this part of the diorama. But now I feel the opposite. I really like landscaping. It's like sculpturing. I found myself easily spending many hours with it.

The south-east side of the bridge has a new carparking area combined with a boat ramp. Eight car spaces. The old ramp, very near to the bridge, is still there. The shire council must have felt it was still a useful ramp for they added bitumen to it.

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G'day Peter
Amazing again mate.
How are you going to simulate the water?
If you are planning to do resin, just be carful with the foam land fill. There migjt be a reaction when the resin is curring because of the heat.
:eek:
I not sure if I'm correct, just a thought it might happen.
Havagooday mate
Greg
 
Hi Peter,
Fascinating work. I’ve managed to work my through all the posts.

Very neat wiring. I like the use of tie wraps to hold your wiring harness. It looks as if you have a specific color code for all of the connections.
 
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...How are you going to simulate the water?
Have considered all sorts of things, but I had a few restrictions. Expense, flexibility, thickness, and aesthetics.

Expense: Due to the area of water needed it will be seen as costly to the museum.
Flexibility: Mainly required while transporting the diorama from my place to the museum display stand. Anything too ridged may lift off the base, or crack.
Thickness: the thicker the heavier it will get. But I am more concerned about is flatness under the boat plate-vane. I don't want the boat to touch the water or appear to hover too much above it either.
Aesthetics: To me, this part is most important, yet I consider myself a neophyte in this field of philosophy. So, in a way I am taking a risk everytime I do something in the name of aesthetics. In this case, I am going against expectations of most model builders.

The choice: High Gloss Enamel Paint. Nothing else. A bluish teal colour.

I can here others screaming. Aarh, What!

Please let me explain.
  1. The operation of the bridge is the focal point. Which means the bridge is to be seen quite clearly, without slightest distractions from watery effects.
  2. Seeing the boat traversing is secondary even though it is the purpose and central point of the bridge.
  3. The singular colour of the water frames the bridge and boat from its surroundings.
  4. The landscapes on either side are partitioned by the same water, much like a triptych display. Each part becomes a diorama in itself.

Of course this is still experimental, and may blow up in my face. It's a risk I am prepared to take. We shall see...
 
... I like the use of tie wraps to hold your wiring harness. It looks as if you have a specific color code for all of the connections.
Originally, for wiring purposes, I had the wires colour-tagged with a number so I knew where it is to go. But once they were connected, I took them off.
Then I replaced all the ties along each terminal strip with a fluorescent colour, purely for aesthetic reasons.
 
G'day Peter
I just had a thought about the water effect. It still might be slightly expensive, but hear is my idea....
Why not place and glue aluminium foil on the board. You could make some parts smooth as a babies bottom and other parts slightly crushed. Then lay translucent blue perspex over the foil.
The result should good enough to show the difference in the water as it would be on a river.
This method covers most of your restrictions that you have mentioned. The cost of the perspex may be reduce if you approach some of the suppliers and asked them if they will be able give it to you cheaper. They might do it for you and the museum.
Havagooday mate Greg
 
G'day Peter
I just had a thought about the water effect. It still might be slightly expensive, but hear is my idea....
Why not place and glue aluminium foil on the board. You could make some parts smooth as a babies bottom and other parts slightly crushed. Then lay translucent blue perspex over the foil.
The result should good enough to show the difference in the water as it would be on a river.
This method covers most of your restrictions that you have mentioned. The cost of the perspex may be reduce if you approach some of the suppliers and asked them if they will be able give it to you cheaper. They might do it for you and the museum.
Havagooday mate Greg
Sounds like a really good idea. Never heard about that method before. As much as I like to use it I might have to decline, since I already have bought the paint, and started to make the vane (which would require me to extend both the aluminium vane and pcb.

HOWEVER, I will experiment with the idea of the foil and, instead of the blue transparent Perspex, paint the foil directly with the enamel. It ought to come out light coloured and somewhat reflective on top of the creases and deeper in colour in the troughs. I'll let you know how that will work out. If it works well I hope it won't be too much of a distraction from the bridge.
 
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