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Build Log. HMS VICTORY ANATOMY by Artesania

I decided to tackle the light kit on this vessel and purchased the Micro Scapers recommended for this build. The little tool was at best average. It need to allow for a deeper channel for the wiring.
I used it to start the channel and then did some
Filing with a square file. I can say that some of the hold sub builds needed some modification but that was due more to myself not grasping the importance of the inner hull. All were minor but still needed to are the light rafter fit properly.
Once I remembered how to solder again it went along pretty good. I cut the number of wires down by half.
I just joined each pair instead of running wires for every light.
The light cover they provided leaves a lot to be desired. They are not near as crisp as the video shows and I found it hard to find the ridges to paint. So I went more basic. Also they are kind of loose on the light so each cover will need to be glued.
Last point. The lights are only 3v so don’t put more than 6v on them. I wanted to set this up with a plug and on/off switch and had a pack here with. 12v supply. I cooked a couple lights.

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Beautiful work ! I'm starting a 1:48 scale model ( HMS Bellona / 1760 ) that will be illuminated with flickering LEDs. What scale is your model ? What is the diameter of the lamps, and material did you use for the covers ? The result seems excellent to me.
Thanks, Luiz
 
The scale is 1:84. Lights are 3mm flickering as are the covers. Both were supplied by Artesania. Lights are good. I would have like 12v as these are 3v. I plant to add a plug and on/off switch. I don’t care for the battery packs they provide. I’m sure they work good but I leave my lights on for months on end. The covers are not great. They should have more solid ridges to enable painting a grid pattern. So I just painted the horizontal lines and not the vertical.

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The scale is 1:84. Lights are 3mm flickering as are the covers. Both were supplied by Artesania. Lights are good. I would have like 12v as these are 3v. I plant to add a plug and on/off switch. I don’t care for the battery packs they provide. I’m sure they work good but I leave my lights on for months on end. The covers are not great. They should have more solid ridges to enable painting a grid pattern. So I just painted the horizontal lines and not the vertical.

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Thanks for the information. I will also use 3mm and 5mm bulbs . For the covers, I'm testing some materials in matte plastic.
 
I finished the Orlop deck this past weekend and was mostly happy with how it looked. However I decided last minute as I was trying to fit the lower gun deck that I didn’t really care for the anchor ropes. So I ordered some ropes of scale from my rope buddy Ben up in Toronto and am waiting on their arrival. You can see in the photo that I used them on the previous victory and they truly add character to the anchors.

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So this week while I’m waiting on my anchor ropes I am assembling all the little items for the lower gun deck. I’m starting on the anchor turnstiles and then the 28 lower gun assemblies complete with block and tackle. Once the anchor ropes I arrive I can add them and place
the gun deck.

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Heading to the Caribbean for a vacation this week but tackled the first set of canons before I leave.
I’ve used the blue black before with mixed enthusiasm. I tried this time painting the cannons with matt black high heat pain made for barbecue grills. I put them on tooth picks and after drying then took a large brush and dusted the gun metal paint on them. I like the look.
Then built 30 carriages and painted them. I sanded all the wheels and then washed them in a stain called early American. I’m not thrilled with the main rope for the canons so I used some 1 mm brown ropes of scale.

The last photo is a laser cut sheet provided by Artesania and these are replacement for eyepins-jackstays. I tried to use them but they are really flimsy. What’s funny is the model video shows their guy using normal eyepins but they call for these flimsy brass pieces. So I found several 100 on line and have them on the way.

The other issue I had is that they have 2mm block’s for the cannon single hole block. They’re impossible to work with. I understand scale etc but it’s has to be practice. I think 2.5
mm could work but I ordered a bunch of 3mm.
The double hole blocks are 3mm and I feel this is a good fit.
Be back in a few weeks.

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The other issue I had is that they have 2mm block’s for the cannon single hole block. They’re impossible to work with. I understand scale etc but it’s has to be practice. I think 2.5
mm could work but I ordered a bunch of 3mm.
The double hole blocks are 3mm and I feel this is a good fit.
Actually the 2mm blocks are right for 1:72 scale for both single and double blocks. The length of the doubles would match that of the singles. The 32 pounders had a double and single block for each running out tackle, and the rest had two singles.

Using information from The Fully Framed Model volume II and James Lees' formulas, the blocks were 6" long.

6" long blocks at 1:72 = 2.1mm

The heaviest breech ropes would be about 7 inches circumference and the others less. 0.95 X the bore is a good estimate according to James Lees in The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War.

Allan
 
This kit is 1:84 so there actually even smaller. Not to mention poorly made. I need about 300+ for the cannons that need to be perfectly drilled which they are not and then the kit string is also a problem in that it is actually too large. I thought about getting ropes of scale for the more accurate sizing of the ropes with the tackle but just decided I’ll live with the 3mm blocks.
 
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