I caught that bow in the deck as well. I've got a few steel 3-2-1 blocks sitting on mine with the ends propped up to induce a little bit of droop, which seems to be working good, plus I'm going to put a few gussets in there as well.
I caught that bow in the deck as well. I've got a few steel 3-2-1 blocks sitting on mine with the ends propped up to induce a little bit of droop, which seems to be working good, plus I'm going to put a few gussets in there as well.
Peter, I only found out there is different hardness a few years ago when I first looked for balsa blocks. The 'standard' (soft), usually stocked by hobby stores, won't hold pins etc.
It is really not necessary to use balsa wood - any other wood will do the job - maybe not using the hardest ones
every wood can be sanded and shaped to the correct form
every wood can be sanded and shaped to the correct form
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Thanks for the update. I've used poplar and basswood. Similar density. Basswood, of course, for solid hulls. I just wanted something that I could work a little faster.
I've had good results gluing down planks with Loctite CA gel. No pins. You have to be thoroughly sure that the plank is right before you glue it down. Pretty unforgiving. I guess I'll see how the balsa works between the bulkheads on my "Flying Cloud".
Thanks, Pete
O.K. shipmates, I'm getting to the point where I'm ready to start shaping the hull so I'm looking at installing filler blocks on the bow. You can see the first photo shows the bow with 2 filler blocks on ether side as supplied in the kit. The 2nd, 3rd, & 4th photos show different angles of filler blocks (bass wood) that I cut out & dry fitted in place. I used the bread & butter method but oriented vertically to keep with the blocks that are in place.
Question: Does this look like a workable method considering the shape of the hull? If not, is their a better way? This is my first ship so please let me know what you guys think.............Al.
Question: Does this look like a workable method considering the shape of the hull? If not, is their a better way? This is my first ship so please let me know what you guys think.............Al.
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I'm interested to see how you will proceed and how it all works out. I plan to use filler blocks between all the bulkheads on my Flying Cloud model and have, in effect, a carved solid hull to plank over.
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It can be, that they are big enough - but it seems to be partly slightly too small - you will see
For a planking basis I guess it will work
For a planking basis I guess it will work
Hi Allan, For your info I sent out some time ago a, message about fillers- When building I made fillers for the home hull from the keel up to 2 mm below the Lowe's gunports.
if needed I can send it again. it may take a few days, as I am going to have a new computer, but I will have a computer expert to install everything
that goes for you to ,Axel.
The more I look at it the middle two blocks on eather side may not have enough material when I form them so I'll go ahead & replace those blocks. Thanks for your opinion.
I agree with Uwek. They are slightly too small. They need to extend beyond where the planking will be so you can bevel the edges down to the correct shape of the hull. It also looks like you have beveled the bulkheads on on the sides of the hull but not on the bottom. Maybe you are on that step and the shaping is what madeyou think of putting in the blocks. 
Jeff
Jeff
Very good, your diagram explains it well. You'll notice that the two filler blocks supplied in the kit do not extend beyond the bulkhead, which I find odd.I agree with Uwek. They are slightly too small. They need to extend beyond where the planking will be so you can bevel the edges down to the correct shape of the hull. It also looks like you have beveled the bulkheads on on the sides of the hull but not on the bottom. Maybe you are on that step and the shaping is what madeyou think of putting in the blocks.
View attachment 400979
Yes, I did start sanding the bulkheads but decided to stop until I was sure I was doing it right.
Alan, There may be some parts in the kit that get installed there later on. You might look through the instructions to see. If there is, you may need to alter your filler blocks to account for the additional kit parts.
Yes, it looks like you were beveling the edges of the bulkheads correctly, from the small amount I saw in your picture.
Jeff
Alan, There may be some parts in the kit that get installed there later on. You might look through the instructions to see. If there is, you may need to alter your filler blocks to account for the additional kit parts.
Yes, it looks like you were beveling the edges of the bulkheads correctly, from the small amount I saw in your picture.
Jeff
Morning Jeff,
I’m on the exact same kit, almost in the same place. It’s a double plank kit, and no, there isn’t anything there later in the build. For bulkhead filler, does it really matter which way the grain is running?
I’ve got a cheap old scroll saw buried out in the garage that I haven’t used in years… gotta go dig it out & see if it’s still any good. Might be an opportunity for an upgrade… “No, Sweetie, I’m not buying another new tool, just replacing one!”
I just don't see the need for filler blocks if the hull is double planked. Bend the planks to fit.
I can’t speak for Alan, but I just plan on filling the first two bulkheads where the heaviest bends are for some additional surface area for glue & pins.
Double planking. First layer. No filler. Planks were heated in a steam box and formed in a jig before placing on the bulkheads. The model is the San Francisco II. However, my current build ( OcCre Nuestra Senora del Pilar) is single planked and I did use balsa filler blocks within the bow bulkheads. Shaped and sanded. And again, the hull planks were steam bent. ( Pictures are the SF II)
That looks good. I still may do the very nose section, but that’s a confidence boost. Not gonna lie, as a newb to this, it’s the planking part that has me a bit shaken. I’m just trying to mentally keep it as no different than doing flooring in a house… good subfloor prep is the key, then the flooring is nothing.
The SF II was my first build. I already had experience in bending wood as I make flyfishing nets that require the hoops to be steam bent and placed in a form to dry. Its not as hard as you think. You can otherwise use a bending heater - kind of like a soldering iron - which works really well. I used CA glue throughout. The outer planking (final) is mahogany/sapele and in thinner than the first layer but goes on easily once you get the hang of it. It too requires wetting/heating to bend. I used wood filler on the sub-hull to help fill in the small voids. Then a good, careful sanding is done before the outer layer is started.
Check the Build Logs for your model and see how others built theirs. You may get some good ideas....
No, the grain direction doesn’t matter on the filler blocks. Their purpose is to keep the shape of the hull for the curve of the hull where there is no support in the hollows between the bulkheads. Yes, you can also steam shape the pieces so they don’t need the filler blocks. Either way will work and they both require effort.
I’ve already picked up one of the soldering iron style benders… though after seeing mixed reviews on its quality, we’ll see how long it lasts. On this one, the primary planks are 2mm, and the outer planks are 0.6mm, so yeah, I’m aware that any defects in the prep work of the first layer are going to reflect right through the second layer because they’re so thin.
John Aliprantis has a series on this ship on his YT channel. While I’m not a huge fan of some of his styles, he at least has some sound info on the build. And binge watching Olha’s videos has helped a lot as well.
John Aliprantis has a series on this ship on his YT channel. While I’m not a huge fan of some of his styles, he at least has some sound info on the build. And binge watching Olha’s videos has helped a lot as well.