• Win a Free Custom Engraved Brass Coin!!!
    As a way to introduce our brass coins to the community, we will raffle off a free coin during the month of August. Follow link ABOVE for instructions for entering.

CA Glue

  • Thread starter Thread starter Pwh
  • Start date Start date
  • Watchers Watchers 5
How do you keep the CA bottle from getting clogged? I'm using Bob Smith Industries Insta-Cure+™
Try using the extended tips available on ebay etc very cheap in larger packs rather than 5 or 10-packs offered by hobby shops. The glue will dry in the tip sealing the bottle, then when you next use it, just snip the end off. I use BSI odourless.
 
As was noted above, get extended, fine point tips. I got these from Amazon:
1756643056502.png
Also, when placing glue, avoid touching the wood (or what ever material you are putting the glue on) with the tip.
One thing I've done is put the glue on a piece of glass and then use a toothpick to put the glue where I want it.
 
I usually do what Corsair does. I put down a strip of tape on my modeling surface and place a few drops of CA there and use fine toothpicks or dental brushes to transfer the CA.

I store unopened CA in a refrigerator. I believe that extends its shelf life.

Rob
 
This only works well with the 2 oz bottles, the smaller ones are usually too stiff, but if you "pre-squeeze" the bottle a little before tipping it to your work, then place the drop of glue. As you release the pressure on the bottle, the vacuum inside will suck the adhesive back up through the nozzle into the bottle. Then, just to be sure, hold a paper towel or tissue above the nozzle with the bottle upright and give it a couple of quick, light squeezes to clear the nozzle.

I use the thin nozzle extensions for the super thin CA, but for the thicker variants, I usually squeeze some out onto waxed paper and use a toothpick - again, using the pre-squeeze method. I take a large piece of waxed paper and pre-cut squares about 2" x 2", stack them up and put a staple near one edge. This give you a "pad" of waxed paper to put CA on or to mix a small batch of epoxy, mix a little paint, etc. Rip it off, discard it and you have a fresh sheet ready for the next batch.
 
This only works well with the 2 oz bottles, the smaller ones are usually too stiff, but if you "pre-squeeze" the bottle a little before tipping it to your work, then place the drop of glue. As you release the pressure on the bottle, the vacuum inside will suck the adhesive back up through the nozzle into the bottle. Then, just to be sure, hold a paper towel or tissue above the nozzle with the bottle upright and give it a couple of quick, light squeezes to clear the nozzle.

I use the thin nozzle extensions for the super thin CA, but for the thicker variants, I usually squeeze some out onto waxed paper and use a toothpick - again, using the pre-squeeze method. I take a large piece of waxed paper and pre-cut squares about 2" x 2", stack them up and put a staple near one edge. This give you a "pad" of waxed paper to put CA on or to mix a small batch of epoxy, mix a little paint, etc. Rip it off, discard it and you have a fresh sheet ready for the next batch.
I used the top of a coffee can or peanut can or something with a flexible plastic lid. You can peel dried epoxy right off of it. :)
Also, I advise against sucking any CA back up into the bottle as it can have debris in it and I believe accelerate it hardening in the bottle.
 
Also, I advise against sucking any CA back up into the bottle as it can have debris in it and I believe accelerate it hardening in the bottle.

That is true, but as mentioned before, if you don't actually touch the tip of the bottle to the work, that risk is significantly minimized. I've gone through countless 2 oz bottles of CA over the years, not only in modelling, but in woodturning and woodworking, and I have seldom thrown a bottle away before it was actually empty.
 
Back
Top