Caldercraft-Imara 1/32- RC with twin steam engines

NMBROOK

Staff member
Forum Moderator
Joined
Jul 15, 2013
Messages
2,630
Points
688

Location
Yorkshire England
Hi All

Those that follow my builds will know the why's and wherefores as to why I have decided to start this build.

Caldercraft's kit has been around for a while now and builds into a stunning model having originally been designed by the late Frank Hinchcliffe who subsequently went on to start Mountfleet models. I will be making one or two small tweaks to a standard build, some cosmetic and some out of necessity to allow access to the steam plant.

The kit is available in prototypical twin screw or single screw design to make Steam power easier.

I have bought the single screw kit to leave my options open to how to power the model. After two months of research and measuring I have decided to go with two steam engines powering twin screws.

Chosen for their compactness and torque, I have opted for two PM research NO 8 Vee Twin oscillating engines. These economical units have a lot of praise for their quality but budget price. I did initially want to go for something more exotic but that would not work with the space available.

Just this morning, I have had a long discussion with Nigel@ Pendlesteam boilers and I am ordering a twin burner 5 inch boiler to power these two engines. He makes his boilers to order and I am looking at around a one month lead time for this. Nigel was extremely helpful in guiding me as to what I should and should not be going for initially.The two engines being 1/2" Bore and 3/4" Stroke mean I have the ability to consume lots of steam and higher revs will empty the boiler very quickly. Fortunately the propellers will be 85mm diameter meaning the RPM will be very low increasing run time of the model between boiler fills.

I will be using disposable Butane/Propane mix gas cartridges to fuel the boiler rather than a custom refillable gas tank as these are more convenient and hold more capacity that the proprietary model tanks.

Nigel has advised me not to fit an on board water tank and handpump initially (to replenish water in the boiler) as I may find I have sufficient boiler capacity for a reasonable run time rather than overcomplicating the installation.

I will be covering the steam plant in great depth once I have all the components, but for now I will do what I can to the hull whilst my boiler is being made.

Now given that the kit was designed for single screw in my case, I need to fill the prop cutout in the hull as it is no longer required.

Fortunately, it is that simple, the hull lines are identical to the twin screw kit so it is just that, a case of filling the void at the end of the keel and fairing to the hull and then reinstating plating and riveting.

To do this I made a slightly oversize pattern from Oak and added two dowels, one for filling a one as a vent. This unit received eight coats of varnish, sanding between coats, to prevent the silicon moulding rubber from sticking.

The piece was then used to make a silicon rubber mould so I could cast the block in polyurethane casting resin.

The cast block was then glued to the hull using Stabilit express two part adhesive. This glue is far superior to Epoxy but is hard to get hold of. I now have to buy this on Ebay.

The block will require substantial shaping then the hull detail replacing which I will cover later.

Kind Regards

Nigel

IMG_0825.jpgIMG_0830.jpgIMG_0831.jpgIMG_0832.jpg
 
A small update is that Boiler, condenser and displacement lubricator ordered and paid for ( I will cover what these last two items do later)

Plus, raw materials and Sealed Stainless ball races ordered as I am making the propellers and shafts from scratch. The kit for twin shafts comes with prop tubes but no props. The propellers CC used to supply were cast white metal and prone to bending/breaking as the blades are slender on this vessel so they stopped supplying them.

This vessel should have exposed shafts so my representation will be based around 6mm 316 stainless shafts. This sounds large but scales up to just under 8 inches in reality, normal off the shelf shafts are 4mm which IMHO is too small for 1/32.

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
One further update which takes me up to date photo wise but not work wise

The kit has a rough white metal cast block that is supposed to be bolted to the hull to support the rudder at the base. This is designed so it can be removed to withdraw the rudder. The block is undersize and the incorrect shape to follow the hull form. In other words, it looks garbage and I am trying to go near scale below as well as above the waterline. I am undecided if the rudder will actually be movable via RC or fixed. I will have more than enough manoeuvrability due to independently controlled engines.

That will be decided before the deck goes on as I intend to "sea" trial the model once the steam plant is in before I get much further along with the superstructure.Fixing the rudder would alleviate the headache of access under a raised grated deck at the stern.

I decided to replace the white metal with a cast resin block that can again be shaped to blend to the keel which as a tater and a radius on it's edges in this area. As the decision is up in the air as to if the rudder will be working, I have turned a Stainless pocket on the lathe and this was cast into the block.Rather than make a silicon mould, I made a simple tray from styrene sheet and peeled the styrene off before the resin fully hardened. This will be bonded in place and faired to the hull along with the block I fitted earlier.

Kind Regards

Nigel

IMG_0834.jpgIMG_0835.jpgIMG_0836.jpg
 
Yesterday I faired the two resin items into the hull.

There is a gap around the shaft where it goes into the hull. I will be turning a brass piece to fit in here once my materials arrive. Not only is the supplied tube to slack on the rudder's shaft, it is also too short. The replacement will have a tapered end to fair to the rudder blades upper radius.

You will notice that fairing has removed some plating and rivet detail, rivets especially where I have sanded the bottom mould seam away.

I have come up with a method to replace the plating fairly easily and I can further improve on the kit's detail around the rudder as it is supplied in twin screw format.

I will tackle this once I have the upper support tube in place.

PVA will be used to replace the now missing rivets.

Kind Regards

Nigel

IMG_0837.jpgIMG_0838.jpgIMG_0839.jpgIMG_0840.jpg
 
Nigel - also onboard. I Googled some images of examples of completed Caldercraft kits of this one - Wow - in your hands she will become a real beauty!

Regards,

Thanks John

The scope for super detailing this great kit is massive. Whilst the kit is very well detailed, there are some minor features missing with this period of vessel that Frank includes in his later designs when he had Mountfleet Models. If you want to see what I mean, take a look at "Mountfleet Models St Nectan". I do love the St Nectan model but would need a change of car to fit that in, she is a BIG and ain't fitting in a Mercedes CLKROTF

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
With the arrival of my raw materials, today I machined the replacement for the kit supplied rudder tube.

The new item was turned from 10mm brass round and bored through 5mm to accepted the rudder shaft. I have chosen to detail the exposed part of this to mimic a bolted flange. Holes were drilled using the rotary attachment before parting the flange off in the lathe.

For bolts, I used miniature brass bolts from the company shown in the picture via Ebay. I am not a gluten for punishment so drilled plain 0.8mm holes to glue the bolts in place.

Kind Regards

Nigel

IMG_0841.jpgIMG_0842.jpgIMG_0843.jpgIMG_0844.jpg
 
With the arrival of my raw materials, today I machined the replacement for the kit supplied rudder tube.

The new item was turned from 10mm brass round and bored through 5mm to accepted the rudder shaft. I have chosen to detail the exposed part of this to mimic a bolted flange. Holes were drilled using the rotary attachment before parting the flange off in the lathe.

For bolts, I used miniature brass bolts from the company shown in the picture via Ebay. I am not a gluten for punishment so drilled plain 0.8mm holes to glue the bolts in place.

Kind Regards

Nigel

View attachment 452216View attachment 452217View attachment 452218View attachment 452219
I'm always impressed with you guys with 'man-skills' like machining brass bits. If I can't do it with an #11 blade and a needle file, I'm in deep trouble :rolleyes:...
 
I'm always impressed with you guys with 'man-skills' like machining brass bits. If I can't do it with an #11 blade and a needle file, I'm in deep trouble :rolleyes:...

It really isn't that hard Paul once you get your head around the basics. Complex items can cause some head scratching though as to deciding on the order of work so you are able to carry out all the operations and still hold the workpiece.

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
It really isn't that hard Paul once you get your head around the basics. Complex items can cause some head scratching though as to deciding on the order of work so you are able to carry out all the operations and still hold the workpiece.

Kind Regards

Nigel
I think I would need about a week sitting at your feet. And then a lifetime to figure out what you taught me...
 
Truth! I do love to learn, though I tend to be cautious rather than brave. I would also happily attend the Jimsky School of Model Ship Building!
...unfortunately, there is no such school, and my skills are not enough to teach others, but I'm happy to share the knowledge. Perhaps, I am already learning from you, mon ami!
 
The next stage was to install the rudder and tube.

The rudder tube was simply bonded in place with a fillet of Stabilities Express on the inside of the hull and minor gaps filled with body filler on the outside.The rudder is free to rotate, but with no slop unlike if I had used the oversize tube in the kit.

The filling job was only rough as the next step will sort any imperfections out, restoring the plate lines

Kind Regards

Nigel

IMG_0845.jpgIMG_0846.jpgIMG_0847.jpg
 
NMBROOK
I’m so glad you are posting this build since I have one of this kits on my working table. I have only been able to find one other built besides this one in another web site. Your postings will be much appreciated as this kit is my next project.
IMG_5643.jpeg
 
NMBROOK
I’m so glad you are posting this build since I have one of this kits on my working table. I have only been able to find one other built besides this one in another web site. Your postings will be much appreciated as this kit is my next project.
View attachment 452456

Hi Bluebeard

I hope you will find this helpful. One build on modelboatmayhem forum with twin steam engines, but different engines and boiler to mine. Also some pics on their homepage gallery of finished examples. One particular example on display at the national model engineering show with twin steam engines working winches and all the bells and whistles.

Plenty of scope to do what you want as I have read this model displaces between 42 to 44lb given how low she sits in the water.

Incidentally, your pic is Perserverence, Imara when she was bought back from the colonies. The upper bridge was enclosed and a grill for a tarp added to the funnel due to the British weather. Obviously the Tarp was only placed on the funnel when docked to protect the inside of the Boilers from the elements

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
Back
Top