Canoe

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Hello,
Well.. some news about establishing the construction of a canoe as a “Group Build”, and if I may, I will take charge of this project and participate in the construction of a canoe myself. So besides that, the news is good!
Things are being arranged in a way that this project will very much look like building from a kit. No milling your own lumber unless you choose to do so. Wood packages will be available (by the Lumberyard – Dave S.): as a first hint, basswood will only be used for the station molds (building molds), the actual canoes will be built with nice milled lumber (strips). And the construction manual / guide has been updated, so it is set to go: as a 68-page, illustrated with over 100 photos, pdf document.

Although this is not meant to discourage members from participating, there will be no laser-cut parts and this project involves working with some pretty delicate strips: 3/32” (2.30 mm) and 1/32” (0.75 mm) thick: but who would turn down a bit of a challenge?

A dedicated topic will be created for this project in the next few days.

All the details relating to the project will be posted there when ready: including costs and “format” we will follow. As far as overall cost is concerned, even in the worst case scenario, between ordering the manual (discounted for SOS members) and the wood package (see below), it should be in line with the kit posted in the very first post in this topic: by Ophotn.


For the time being, we would need to mount a list of members with serious interest in this project: please note that the cost of the lumber package will differ according to the number of participants committing to purchase from the suggested supplier (The Lumberyard): as a hint, knowing that groups of 5 participants is good, 10 will be the most cost effective number when placing orders at the same time. In order to qualify for group order pricing we will needs the wood package orders to made in groups of 5 or 10.

In the meantime if you have any questions, please ask away.

Anyways, let us know with a reply right here in this thread, until the "formal page" is created.
If have previously said you wanted to participate, please confirm that you are still interested.

This is also a call to all members, to seriously look at this build. It not a complicated project. It can very well fit within the construction of your current project and may be a welcome break from your are currently building. Count on about 30 hours to complete.


Thank you.

G.

cover.jpg
 
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We will keep an updated list right here for now.
Thank you for sign-up
@donfarr
@KentM
@Gilles Korent
@Ophotn

FYI:
One more bit of information to wet everyone's appetite:
In regards to the wood package for strip wood (planking + ribs + keel including stems ends + gunwales, etc...) and sheet wood (decks, yoke, seat, trims, etc...)

We will have the choice between Red Cedar and Cherry.

G.

And a sample as to what you could have on display at home - upon completion of this build
Used cherry for this one.
A couple basswood accent strips incorporated in the planking.
The decks, yoke and paddles in leftover basswood from the sheets used for the building molds (station molds)
The seats are the woven and fame kind.

_DSC6193.jpg
 
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HI GILLES, ONE QUESTION, THE USE OF WESTERN RED CEDAR, I AM USING IT NOW FOR PLANKING NICE STUFF (LUMBERYARD) BUT IT IS SOFT NOT AS BAD AS BASSWOOD BUT STILL SOFT HOW WOULD THIS WORK ON THIN MATERIALS LIKE 1/32 INCH, GOD BLESS STAY SAFE Don
 
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HI GILLES, ONE QUESTION, THE USE OF WESTERN RED CEDAR, I AM USING IT NOW FOR PLANKING NICE STUFF (LUMBERYARD) BUT IT IS SOFT NOT AS BAD AS BASSWOOD BUT STILL SOFT HOW WOULD THIS WORK ON THIN MATERIALS LIKE 1/32 INCH, GOD BLESS STAY SAFE Don

Red cedar
For the planking: it will be easy to bend and "twist" where needed - no need to soak or steam.
For the ribs: the bends will be tighter but it will work well: will definitely need soaking in hot water.
Being a soft wood, it is more difficult to hold a "nail" or pin. And, it is easy to put a dent in a planked hull!

I built an average 50 canoes using red cedar, every year between 1998 and 2008 and rarely had any trouble with the lumber: a strip here and there. Breakage sometimes happened when there was a defect in the strip which did not happen very often. And you can see the defect before you try to bend it or work with it anyway.

Cherry is not as flexible but it will work in the same way.
I have made only a fraction of these numbers using cherry but have also been very happy with the results especially when applying the finish. For my taste, cherry is actually nicer to work with. It is a harder wood but it bends well and gluing is easy. Red cedar gets darker when finish is applied.

In all cases. one must be a bit careful with with tight bends.

This one was made about 14 years ago. One of the rare painted yellow.
In this one the 1/32" thick rib strips were sanded down (by hand) to a little more than 1/64". Back then I was able to pick my lumber before milling.

_DSC4711a.jpg

G
 
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Further to my reply above:
A test to demonstrate how a 1/32" thick by 1/4" wide wood strip will bend: this strip is dry and not close to breaking point yet.
The coin in the center is a quarter (25 cents).
After soaking, the strip could probably be bend around a mold as tight as the coin. The secret is to make a mold that would be at least as wide as the strip.

20200611_174741 copy.jpg
 

Uwek

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Hallo friends,
I am very interested in this idea of the canoe build, especially there are not so much here in Europe ;)
I hope, that the costs for postage to Austria will not sooo expensive, so I would like to add me to the list.
These 30 hours Gilles mentioned, (better: I know myself - 50 hours for me and my slow-motion working) I can afford in between.
Count me in !!!
 
Joined
Feb 18, 2019
Messages
586
Points
353

Location
Pubnico, Nova Scotia, Canada
Hallo friends,
I am very interested in this idea of the canoe build, especially there are not so much here in Europe ;)
I hope, that the costs for postage to Austria will not sooo expensive, so I would like to add me to the list.
These 30 hours Gilles mentioned, (better: I know myself - 50 hours for me and my slow-motion working) I can afford in between.
Count me in !!!

Hi Uwe,
For members outside North America there is the option of getting lumber from a local supplier as well: to lower the shipping cost (in Europe for you).
If you have access to a supplier who can mill your strip wood.
Here are the dimensions:

Wood board (any wood or plywood) for the building base: 1/2" x 3" x 20 inches - from a local lumberyard.
Basswood sheet for the canoe mold (station molds): 3/32" (2.50 mm) x 3" (7.5 cm) or 1/8" (or 3 mm) x 3" (7.5 cm) - This is likely available from any hobby shop


Sheet wood - Cedar, cherry or other: 3/32" (2.50 mm) x 3" (7.50 cm) or 1/8" (or 3 mm) x 3" (7.50 cm)
Wood strips - Cedar, Cherry or other: 3/32" (2.50 mm) x 3/32" (2.5 mm)
Wood strips - Cedar, cherry or other: 1/32" (0.8 mm) x 1/8" (3 mm)
Wood strip - Cedar, Cherry or other: 1/4" (6.50 mm) x 1/32" (0.8 mm)
For the sheet and stripwood above: even pear wood would work ;)

I can send the quantities upon request or everything is in the Construction guide.

Regards.
G
 
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WONDERFULL UWE, JUST LOVE IT I AM LIKE YOU PROBALLY DOUBLE THE 30 HOURS, FOR ME REALLY LOOKING FORWARD TO THIS ANOTHER LEARNING PROCESS, WONDERFUL THANKS GILLES AND ALL STAFF FOR PUTTING THIS TOGETHER, BTW GOT MY MANUEL PRINTED TODAY, AND WILL CUT BUILDING BOARD TOMORROW,. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE DON
 
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