Charles Royal Yacht, 1674, Scale 1:64, by Woody Joe (Japan)

Hi Jimsky

Lovely picture.....

But wait ! What is the lovely picture ? The grandkids one or the kit ????? .... HAHAHA

The grandkids picture is the winner. :) enjoy them !!! They are one of the best gift of life.

Happy New Year for you and your family , and looking forward to your log built of that kit. To my knowledge there is only one built log online from a Profesional modeler where he emphasized many times "don't glue where the instructions says -DON'T GLUE- " HAHAHA. In other words, he glued some sections without reading carefully the instructions and it was not easy to correct that mistake. The modeler did a wonderful job. His ship looks amazing. Yours will look the amazing too. Mine is in the box yet :)

Cheers
Daniel
 
Thank you, Daniel! Yes, the grandkids, as well as the kids, are the best present of all time!! It is a gift from G....d!

As for the kit, it is a special gift, it was unexpected and according to my son, they made an idea and asked him to purchase it for Grandpa!

The biggest challenge with the WoodyJoe kits, the instruction manual is in Japanese (not English), and it found in the text DON GLUE would be a challenge. I tried to learn this language while building Charles Royal Yacht (this build log) it was also made by WoodyJoe, but to no avail ;) SOS has a build log from Ekis, who built this model a while back so I will use this as the reference for sure. Thank you for your advice and if you start your kit earlier, I will follow and learn from your log. Thumbsup

Happy New Year to you and yours!

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Greetings fellow modelers. First, I'd like to express gratitude to all who show an interest in the build log, and your comments and reactions made.

Just to recall what we left off in our last session as part of the metalwork. We prepare the barrel by soldering the trunion and milling the touch hole. Here is the naval gun today.

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Immediately, I wanted to see how the barrel would look under blackening and Royal emblem. I found that the blackening results greatly depend on how well you have cleaned the parts. If you look at the above image, you will see the barrel 'shines'... yes, it is because I use one of those abrasive brush nylon buffing/polishing wheels bought on Aliexpress. They come in various grits distinguished by colors. The 320 grit is great for cleaning oxidation and small imperfections, it will not 'eat' the pattern, while the 600 grit wheel is great for polishing.

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Here is the link, in case someone considers using them


Back to the blackening barrel... After using the polishing wheel, I used the steel wool on those parts the wheel couldn't be reached. To finish with cleaning, I use Windex and the old toothbrush, following the rinse with clean water. To blacken, I use a Brasblack solution diluted with water. To finish with the barrel, I glued the Royal emblem and lightly brushed it with graphite powder. Below is the result.

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The next logical step is to make the capsquare itself and all the parts to attach it. I use the brass strip from my stash 1.00mm wide and 0.3mm thick. It was obvious I would need a few more jigs to make the work easy. Let's start with drilling/milling jig. A scrap of pearwood is used to mill the grove exactly 1.00mm wide and 0.3mm deep (as the dimension of my strip) so the strip can just slide while in place. The top slides along the jig and the miniature bolt holds the brass plate while machining.

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Here is the enlarged view. Please note the notches, the first two will be used later when we need to bend. The Third one is where we need to drill the hole and the last one is the length of the capsquare workpiece (blank).

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Now we can do some machining. Originally, I planned to use just a hole to mimic Capsquare Joint Bolt, but lately, I have a decision to make it real. I used a 0.2mm endmill to mill the grove. Also, the hole was drilled using the same endmill and then enlarged with a 0.35mm drill bit. Below are photos to depict the process.

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Milling was rather time-consuming because of the tiny endmill, I couldn't plunge too deep and move too fast. But...the results were fully satisfactory and I didn't regret spending time making them. While the blank in the jig, I made saw the mark notches, later, they will serve as the guide while bending.

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The next is to make a bending jig. I have made those in the past, so this was not difficult just a different size. The image is self-explanatory. It will work like a press.

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Here is the jig in 'action' The blanks are oriented exactly where the saw notches in the middle. In the image, they are on the bottom so you cannot see them.

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Carefully close the jig (not to move the blank), and squeeze the entire jig in the wise. Ever wonder what happened? Check the next image. After some time you have some capsquares ready for blackening.

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I have rather big fingers... To be continued... later today
Ciao Jimsky.
Questo sito è straordinario.
Oltre ad essere ben strutturato c'è una partecipazione e una qualità di modellisti e modelli in scala semplicemente eccezionale.
Scusa se rivedo solo ora queste realizzazioni straordinarie ma c'è talmente tanto materiale (immagini e testi) di alta qualità che mi perdo.
Purtroppo non riesco a ritrovare più delle foto che mi servivano da spunto, sebbene fossi sicuro di averle viste.
Tu sei un modellista fenomenale, ti ringrazio di condividere i tuoi lavori.

Hi Jimsky.

This site is amazing.
In addition to being well structured, the participation and quality of model makers and scale models is simply exceptional.

Sorry if I'm only now reviewing these extraordinary creations but there is so much high quality material (images and texts) that I get lost.
Unfortunately I can no longer find the photos that served as inspiration, although I was sure I had seen them.

You are a phenomenal pattern maker, thank you for sharing your work.
 
Thank you, Alessandro, and Happy New Year! I am delighted that you found the information in this blog useful!

Grazie, Alessandro, e buon anno nuovo! Sono felice che tu abbia trovato utili le informazioni contenute in questo blog!
 
Witaj
Prezent piękny , a wnuki cudowne sam mam dwóch wnuków i kocham każdą chwilę spędzoną z nimi . Wszystkiego najlepszego w Nowym Roku
 
Greetings fellow shipmates! Before I will continue, I would like to thanks everyone who stopped by this log. Today we are making our own mouldings. (YAY)

Whether you are a kit builder or make you models from scratch, consider the idea of personalizing your work by adding wooden mouldings. So, what is the moulding (spelled molding in the US), also known as coving (the UK and Australia)? Here is the definition by
Wikipedia. Moulding is a strip of material with various profiles used to cover transitions between surfaces or for decoration. It is traditionally made from solid milled wood or plaster but may be of plastic or reformed wood.

The idea is using old\broken hacksaw blades and various abrasive wheels to make our own scrapers, so we can fabricate mouldings of our choice and desire.


A word of cautions: Since we will be cutting metal in high speed with abrasive disks. Please be careful, always use protective goggles and wear face protective mask, to avoid abrasive dust inhale.

Tools will be used:
  • Any variable speed grinder that you can comfortably hold in your hand. Flexible shaft with a handpiece attached and foot-pedal control is desirable but not necessary. I will be using one of the cordless grinders from Dremel
  • Cut out wheels, grinder stones (different grit, diameter and thickness) and mandrels to hold wheels
  • Dressing stone (to shape wheels\stones)
  • An old, dull or broken hacksaw blade
Using the plans or kit building manual find out the moulding pattern you will need, and sketch it out on a paper. Make it large enough so you can visually understand how many groves, how wide\deep and geometry of those grooves should be. Transfer all measurements from a plan into your sketch. The next step is to find cutting wheels suitable for this tool. Assemble wheels on the mandrel using your sketch as the guide. I use paper washers as spacers between the wheels to play with the desired size\shape. To finish assembly, tighten the thread firmly (don’t overtighten). The tool should be ready.

Look at the first picture below. This tool has 3 disks (A.B.C). Disk A and C the same thickness, and the same diameter. Disk B is thicker and larger diameter. Let’s say we need to make a scraper with profile we made in this tool.




Insert the tool in the collet, tighten and get the rotary tool ready. Take in the left hand your hacksaw workpiece. Move the cutting tool to the workpiece edge at a 90-degree angle until a spark appears. Do it again, plunge the tool slowly until you see the grooves left on the workpiece edge. Repeat the process by constantly venturing on a little bit until the desired size and shape archived. It will be tough and impossible for me to explain (with my broken English) al the gotchas, and I am afraid my friend - Google translator will add to this mess. Observe my pictures, if you need more explanations please ask. I will be more than glad to help.


Once happy with scraper size\shape it is time to make mouldings. Now we will need to cut the wood strips. I use boxwood, Pearwood and Ebony for my mouldings. The size of the strips is determined by the width and height of the working surface of the tool we made. It is imperative to cut wood strips precisely with the exact size of your scraper

Before you begin, determine the direction of the wood fibres. To do this, put the tool at the beginning of the strip, press lightly against the strip and scrape wood towards the opposite end. If the tool moves freely and the chips curl, this means you move in the right direction. If not, start from the opposite end of the strip and repeat the same procedure. The cutter (scraper) should glide easily, and shaving wood should curl. Attach the strip with double-sticky tape to a board and start scraping.



  • Move scraper only one direction from start to the end of the strip
  • Apply equal amount of pressure while moving along the strip.
  • DO NOT remove a lot of material by one run, Slowly but surely!
  • The scraper should move freely, without excessive force
  • Check the shape\size after a couple of runs. Make sure the surface is smooth
  • If you are getting a ‘rip’ cut instead of smooth, most likely scraper is not sharp enough. Hacksaw blades are made of a carbon steel and should hold an edge. However, as with any cutting tool, it will require re-sharpening (occasionally).
Now, try to make your own first-class mouldings! ;) Start with a simple shape moulding. A single, round grove scraper is a good example. I use such moulding for Charles Royal Yacht to decorate gun ports area.
Once master the single grove, try two groves, three groves of different size. You can use dressing stone to shape cutting wheels. The more you practice, the more pleasant the result will be. Good luck, and remember, if you have questions - please ask.


Happy Modelling!
Hey Jim, five years late in the viewing but 'Oh my! great tutorial' - many belated 'Thank you's', I'll now catch-up read your build. :)Thumbs-Up:)
 
A belated Happy New Year, Jim! ... and to those cute 3 Musketeers. They look like triplets, almost. :)
 
A belated Happy New Year, Jim! ... and to those cute 3 Musketeers. They look like triplets, almost. :)
Yeah, Ken, almost but not exactly. ;) When three of them, at the same time, come to visit Grandpa, my apartment becomes a La Rochelle where those musketeers trying to siege it. ROTF

Happy New Year across the Hudson River to you and yours!!
 
Whew!!! made it start to finish. Beautiful work, craftmanship and outstanding modelling. So much learning and hopefully remembering. Thank you for this post. Also a very healthy and prosperouis belated New Years greeting. - Franco.
 
Whew!!! made it start to finish. Beautiful work, craftmanship and outstanding modelling. So much learning and hopefully remembering. Thank you for this post. Also a very healthy and prosperouis belated New Years greeting. - Franco.
Thank you, Franco! The same wishes apply to you and your loved ones! But why is the New Year belated, it has just started! ;) Happy New Year!!
 
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