Just a quick question - does anyone know why so many modellers paint the underwater area of the hull white? I am building a Bounty at present and most pictures of finished Bounty's show a white hull. I have read that many early ships had copper plating applied as an anti-fouling. As someone who has been a yacht owner I am aware of using anti-fouling paint containing copper for boats that remain in the water for extended periods of time. That treatment is a bronze colour. Some others are blue. White hull for the Bounty just does not seem correct. Ant ideas?
Its called "white stuff", and that was the coating used by the Royal Navy during that era.
It was replaced by copper plating at a later date.
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It was replaced by copper plating at a later date.
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Thanks. I reviewed both references and they do not cover bottom paint, only paint above the water line. Brian077 replied to my post stating "Royal Navy ships of that period used 'white stuff'. This was replaced with copper at a later date." Keep safe. Bill
Hello Bill,
Ships and boats that spend most of their time in the water (as opposed to leisure boats that are usually launched by the trailer for the day, and hauled back out by sunset) have to contend with tiny plants and animals attaching themselves to the hull beneath the waterline. Not only does this marine growth slow down a vessel’s speed, but organisms can penetrate the hull and damage it. For wooden vessels in seawater, some organisms—specifically the teredo worm, teredo navalis—will bore through the wood with such efficiency that the hull would soon be peppered with holes and tunnels.
To combat this situation, shipwrights treat the underwater portion of the ship's hulls. In ancient times, ships were often slathered with tar, wax, oils, or tallow (animal fat) mixed with animal hair. Sometimes shipbuilders tacked on an additional layer of wood that could be sacrificed and replaced when it got too full of holes, thus protecting the actual hull planking. In the 17th century, shipwrights used sheets of lead to sheathing their hulls to deter marine growth, only to discover that lead hastened the corrosion of iron fastenings that held the ship’s planks to the frames. Coatings called anti-fouling paints that contain substances toxic to marine organisms have been around for hundreds of years, but not until the mid-1850s were formulas developed that was effective enough to be adopted on a wide scale, reducing the need for expensive copper plating.
The anti-fouling paints they use must have It is a special kind of paint, known initially as “composition”. Its purpose was to prevent or slow-rust and also to inhibit the growth of marine organisms that like to attach themselves to the hull. This paint (composition) contained arsenic, copper, zink, and other metals, to prevent sea life from attaching to the bottom of the ships. That was the basis for the different colors, then. In the white color composition, they use zink.
Ships and boats that spend most of their time in the water (as opposed to leisure boats that are usually launched by the trailer for the day, and hauled back out by sunset) have to contend with tiny plants and animals attaching themselves to the hull beneath the waterline. Not only does this marine growth slow down a vessel’s speed, but organisms can penetrate the hull and damage it. For wooden vessels in seawater, some organisms—specifically the teredo worm, teredo navalis—will bore through the wood with such efficiency that the hull would soon be peppered with holes and tunnels.
To combat this situation, shipwrights treat the underwater portion of the ship's hulls. In ancient times, ships were often slathered with tar, wax, oils, or tallow (animal fat) mixed with animal hair. Sometimes shipbuilders tacked on an additional layer of wood that could be sacrificed and replaced when it got too full of holes, thus protecting the actual hull planking. In the 17th century, shipwrights used sheets of lead to sheathing their hulls to deter marine growth, only to discover that lead hastened the corrosion of iron fastenings that held the ship’s planks to the frames. Coatings called anti-fouling paints that contain substances toxic to marine organisms have been around for hundreds of years, but not until the mid-1850s were formulas developed that was effective enough to be adopted on a wide scale, reducing the need for expensive copper plating.
The anti-fouling paints they use must have It is a special kind of paint, known initially as “composition”. Its purpose was to prevent or slow-rust and also to inhibit the growth of marine organisms that like to attach themselves to the hull. This paint (composition) contained arsenic, copper, zink, and other metals, to prevent sea life from attaching to the bottom of the ships. That was the basis for the different colors, then. In the white color composition, they use zink.
Thanks Brian. Good to hear white is a legitimate colour for the Bounty. Bill
Thanks Jim. Since my last post I have found a site that pointed out that they are still finding copper plating from the Bounty in Bounty Bay. So I am guessing the Royal Navy copper plated the hull after purchasing the boat. It makes sense it that on a long voyage the boat hull couldn't be repainted and copper plating would last. Considering everything I think I will stick with a copper coloured bottom paint. To be more authentic I would have to use copper plating but since I don't have the copper plates paint will have to do. Bill
Thanks for the response. Since I posted I have found out they are still finding copper plates form the Bounty when she was burned/sunk in Bounty Bay. Since I don't have copper plating I will have to fake it with copper coloured paint. Keep safe. Bill
I just put in 'google search; Copper paint and get ton's of results, I am sure you can find the one you like most.
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From the burnt wreckage on Pitcairn there were the remains of copper plates and nails. I think she was sheathed especially for the voyage.
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Prior to coppering, white stuff (a dirty shade from a modeler's perspective) was prevalent on RN ships. Google contemporary models and look at images from places like the National Maritime Museum. In a few minutes white will seem to be the normal colour to you. For painting models I use enamel paints (Humbrol) matt white with a small amount of yellow and a grey brown until I'm happy.
Bill, there is copper patterned tape/strips that I’ve seen mentioned in other builds. Have you considered looking into that option? That would give a really nice finish on the hull. Not overly confident in the look of copper paint on the hull. Might look awesome but have not seen a build yet with that copper paint finish. I’m sure whatever you choose to do will look good.
When painting a hull “white” to simulate the tallow based anti-fouling coatings use a dirty white...not a bright or brilliant white. I use a white called “antique white” which has a flat sheen and looks like it has a layer of dirt on it. Use a dirty yellow-grey off white if that makes any sense??
A ship gets dirty. White is very unnatural. A mixture of white, light brown and yellow works well if you age your ship. Same goes for the sails.
Thanks Bob. White is definitely out for me since there is some proof the HMS Bounty actually had copper plates. One responder stated copper plating may be available for modelling. I will research that. Bill
Thanks Chris. I will look into copper plating and if available I will go that route. Although whitish hulls did exist at one time the Bounty's hull was copper plated - according to findings in Bounty Bay where she was burned. Bill
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I thought we'd agreed the Bounty was coppered?
The 'white stuff' would probably looked a mess.....the colour of a cadaver and just daubed on.
The wood of the upper hull wouldn't have been the warm prestine wood common on ship models either. Navy ships had the old tar and varnish burned (with a blow-lamp) and scraped off at least once a year and a fresh coating blathered on. Talk about patina?
The 'white stuff' would probably looked a mess.....the colour of a cadaver and just daubed on.
The wood of the upper hull wouldn't have been the warm prestine wood common on ship models either. Navy ships had the old tar and varnish burned (with a blow-lamp) and scraped off at least once a year and a fresh coating blathered on. Talk about patina?
Yes, we agreed but not everyone does. For my build, if I every finish the Amati version of the bounty, I will use copper or as close as I can get. There are so many problems with this kit it is almost like doing a scratch build. Hopefully I will be able to find the copper tape Chris mentioned in his response. Bill